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Dry Polishing Compound.
- Thread starter trentu
- Start date
- Joined
- Feb 26, 2007
- Messages
- 3,222
i would love to know the answer to this as well. the Green i use comes right off too
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2008
- Messages
- 1,597
I have red and it works for a little bit. If you have the rpm too high, it will fling off anything on. The red I Have stays on for about two minutes if I leave the buffing wheel running without touching it at all. If there's a way to stick it on better, someone share!
- Joined
- Jun 2, 2007
- Messages
- 1,354
put it into the oven ! 
haha j/k...though...it might work ! i'm guessing if it's "dried" out...might as well throw it away.
haha j/k...though...it might work ! i'm guessing if it's "dried" out...might as well throw it away.
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2008
- Messages
- 1,855
I assume you're talking about grease compound sticks/bars. YOu should be using a stiff spiral sewn buff and you just apply it firmly as the wheel is spinning, kind of melting it onto the wheel. Don't be afraid to use enough pressure to slow the machine down a bit.
AFAIK, the grease doesn't dry out.
AFAIK, the grease doesn't dry out.
- Joined
- Apr 19, 1999
- Messages
- 3,560
A way to improve initial applications of green compound is to rough up the surface with a rake and scorch the fine threads with a torch.
Once the coating takes it is pretty easy to apply thereafter.
George
Once the coating takes it is pretty easy to apply thereafter.
George
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2006
- Messages
- 2,280
I like using the Jacksonlea compound, it has a grease oil base. The keys of keeping any compound from drying out is to shrink wrap each bar individually and story in a dry cool place. This will preserve the bar and will not dry out. I have about 20 3 lb. bars in storage here in the shop. And every bar is just like it was the day I put in the shrink wrap bag. It was will worth the investment in purchasing the bar back in 2004. The price on these bars are about 35.00 a bar. So, if your compound is dryed out, most likely it is unusable. You need it to stick properly to the wheel. And I would not recommend applying any thing else to the wheel do to contamination. Thats something that could turn into a nightmare when buffing out a blade. :yawn:
Here is a photo of the 3 lb. Bar.
And here is one going on the wheel. Make sure you use a firm amounts of pressure when applying. You will actually see it melt into the wheel. I would suggest turning on the buffer and then turn it off then load hold and move across the wheel til the wheel stops turning. Then repeat, til the wheel is fully saturated and then cover the wheel with a plastic bag until you are ready to start buffing. I preload every wheel here. Then touchup a little as needed when I am buffing. The reason for covering the wheels is to prevent any airborne particles sticking to the wheel when it's not in use. You do not need to produce nice shiny scratches. Hope this was of help and has in some way answered your questions.
Terry
Here is a photo of the 3 lb. Bar.
And here is one going on the wheel. Make sure you use a firm amounts of pressure when applying. You will actually see it melt into the wheel. I would suggest turning on the buffer and then turn it off then load hold and move across the wheel til the wheel stops turning. Then repeat, til the wheel is fully saturated and then cover the wheel with a plastic bag until you are ready to start buffing. I preload every wheel here. Then touchup a little as needed when I am buffing. The reason for covering the wheels is to prevent any airborne particles sticking to the wheel when it's not in use. You do not need to produce nice shiny scratches. Hope this was of help and has in some way answered your questions.
Terry
George, thanks for the tip on scorching the little threads after raking, I've been trimming them off with scissors.
What I do to keep my compound bars from drying out is to spiral wrap them in 3/4" masking tape starting at one end and working my way to the other. It keeps the grit and dust off the bar and when you wear it down a bit, just take one wrap of tape off and you get another 3/4" of compound exposed.
Brad
www.AndersonKnives.ca
What I do to keep my compound bars from drying out is to spiral wrap them in 3/4" masking tape starting at one end and working my way to the other. It keeps the grit and dust off the bar and when you wear it down a bit, just take one wrap of tape off and you get another 3/4" of compound exposed.
Brad
www.AndersonKnives.ca
- Joined
- May 21, 2022
- Messages
- 1
I know this thread is ancient, and I'm new here, however, through some HEAVY googling, too much YouTube, and a few weekends if trial and error, with the grease/oil based bar drying out, I have a working solution! (I created an account here SPECIFICALLY to share this knowledge, and after poking around, I'm happy I did as the wealth and breadth of knowledge here is remarkable!)
If you know your going to store your green bricks, apply a thin even coat of quality olive oil, then I plastic wrapped and ziplock bagged the bar.
5 years and 3 months later, although a noticable shade darker, it function s as if just off the assembly line!!
(This experiment was actually done under my father's advice, stored, and completely forgotten about for many years, till hours before writing this message!!
*Of all the things I have lost,
I miss my mind the most!* Right??)
NOW,
If already dried and performing akin to chalk, a similar method is employed, with a few repeats on a couple steps.
Simply apply a good even coat of quality olive oil to the exterior, ziplock it with as much air removed as humanly possible, leaving it in a warmer place, like cupboard above your kitchen stove, for a day or 3, untill the surface is no longer shiney.
Rinse and repeat once or 2x more.
After a couple weeks, I broke one of the bars in half, and all but a 1/2 of the very core was "rehydrated" (for lack of a better term), and functioning as expected!
*** No need for 4 or more coats, unless your after a green bar paste!! (Yes, I found out the hard way - now relegated to the Dremel buff & polish tool box! -that amount will last DECADES! Hahahaha)
SO,
If you need it immediately, although I've not tried, this method, but stands to reason - apply a light coat of the same quality olive oil to your buff to load it strap, them apply green, but slower strokes, to kind of allow some level of surface absorption.
I tried to figure out a process to revive these great, multi purpose, green bars of wonder (seriously, look it up! These are the duct tape of polish compounds, with dozens of off lable uses I found on instructables & reddit!), as I acquired 11 bars dirt cheap, from a business that went under due to Covid a year ago.
However upon closer inspection when I got home realized they had been manufactured at least 5 years earlier and several had the packaging cracked in one or 2 corners, & had obviously been exposed to the elements for years. Even the ones that were still in their sealed blister packages seem to be suffering from some sort of drying
I didn't have the heart to throw 30 something pounds of green bars into the garbage being the upcycler at heart I am lol!
I truly hope this helps someone get years more shelf life - decades even, I would assume!
Stay safe all!!
If you know your going to store your green bricks, apply a thin even coat of quality olive oil, then I plastic wrapped and ziplock bagged the bar.
5 years and 3 months later, although a noticable shade darker, it function s as if just off the assembly line!!
(This experiment was actually done under my father's advice, stored, and completely forgotten about for many years, till hours before writing this message!!
*Of all the things I have lost,
I miss my mind the most!* Right??)
NOW,
If already dried and performing akin to chalk, a similar method is employed, with a few repeats on a couple steps.
Simply apply a good even coat of quality olive oil to the exterior, ziplock it with as much air removed as humanly possible, leaving it in a warmer place, like cupboard above your kitchen stove, for a day or 3, untill the surface is no longer shiney.
Rinse and repeat once or 2x more.
After a couple weeks, I broke one of the bars in half, and all but a 1/2 of the very core was "rehydrated" (for lack of a better term), and functioning as expected!
*** No need for 4 or more coats, unless your after a green bar paste!! (Yes, I found out the hard way - now relegated to the Dremel buff & polish tool box! -that amount will last DECADES! Hahahaha)
SO,
If you need it immediately, although I've not tried, this method, but stands to reason - apply a light coat of the same quality olive oil to your buff to load it strap, them apply green, but slower strokes, to kind of allow some level of surface absorption.
I tried to figure out a process to revive these great, multi purpose, green bars of wonder (seriously, look it up! These are the duct tape of polish compounds, with dozens of off lable uses I found on instructables & reddit!), as I acquired 11 bars dirt cheap, from a business that went under due to Covid a year ago.
However upon closer inspection when I got home realized they had been manufactured at least 5 years earlier and several had the packaging cracked in one or 2 corners, & had obviously been exposed to the elements for years. Even the ones that were still in their sealed blister packages seem to be suffering from some sort of drying
I didn't have the heart to throw 30 something pounds of green bars into the garbage being the upcycler at heart I am lol!
I truly hope this helps someone get years more shelf life - decades even, I would assume!
Stay safe all!!