Dunn S60V Semi-Skinner and two good size hogs....

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Sep 25, 2009
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On Monday my uncle, a mutual friend, and myself slaughtered two hogs on my grandfathers farm in north GA. I used my Dunn semi-skinner exclusively, keeping in mind I had help from another blade in part. All in all, I would say it did 1.5 hogs worth of skinning/gutting work, if that makes sense. Then afterwords used it to bone out 2 shoulders for sausage, as well as trim rib meat and such. Prior I had put an apprx 15 deg/side edge on with Dia-Sharps, Black Hard Arkansas w/BC slurry, and strops down to .25 mic.

All along I have read how this series of steel likes a bit of bite to it, and darned if the thing doesn't cut a little better AFTER that aforementioned day's work. Keep in mind, these hogs were fresh from the sty, caked on mud (what we couldn't get off with a water hose and scraper) etc. Not to mention previously wild and recaptured by my grandfather, raised in the pen for the last few years. They are rampant on his cattle farm. Heavy duty animals is what Im getting at. Anyhow, Im am now a fan. This was its first real test, my only S60V knife at that. Thought I'd share.
 
Gotsouthern, thanks this is great real world feed back. You can cut rope and cardboard to try to get an idea of how a blade will work but until you use it like you have done you really don't know. Hogs are a real challenge due to the dirt and bristles. I have been surprised how abrasive animal hair is. I have used my knives on Pigs,Bison, Elk, Deer and Antelope and all of those will take off the edge at about twice the rate as cutting 5/8 manila rope will. Do you know the heat treat history on your blade? This is great performance for S60V and I would guess the hardness based on past experience is in the RC60 range... Phil
 
Gotsouthern, thanks this is great real world feed back. You can cut rope and cardboard to try to get an idea of how a blade will work but until you use it like you have done you really don't know. Hogs are a real challenge due to the dirt and bristles. I have been surprised how abrasive animal hair is. I have used my knives on Pigs,Bison, Elk, Deer and Antelope and all of those will take off the edge at about twice the rate as cutting 5/8 manila rope will. Do you know the heat treat history on your blade? This is great performance for S60V and I would guess the hardness based on past experience is in the RC60 range... Phil

Couldn't agree more my friend. Never really skinned out any big game aside from deer and hogs, and the hogs will put a whoopin' on a blade FAST. I had 2 more well-stropped knives waiting in the wings, as it is not uncommon to waste an edge completely on just one hog. No need this time.

I do not know the HT on this blade in particular. Dunn has a great web site ( http://www.dunnknives.com/products/ImprovedSkinnerBigGame.php ) and now that you mention it I may contact him just to see if he can fill me in a bit. Judging from a) how long it took to reprofile on a DMT XC and b) the aforementioned field performance, I'd say your 'bout spot on with the RC60, give or take a point. There is ZERO detectable rolling/chipping/flattening (at 60x magnification at that), and there was certainly plenty of glancing bone contact in the boning out procedures. Overall it is exemplary performance from a well designed and thought out, purpose-built knife, and made me proud of my sharpening capabilities as well.
 
That's a great review. I've shot lots of hogs and they serve as my testing ground for knife steel. Dunn has some nice knives - I especially like the Big Game. I'm a big fan of that "willow leaf" blade shape. He doesn't say on his website exactly what type of steel he uses, though. How did you know before getting the knife that it was S60V? I'm looking forward to trying out a new VG-10 blade on hogs this spring. Happy holidays and enjoy the pork!
 
That's a great review. I've shot lots of hogs and they serve as my testing ground for knife steel. Dunn has some nice knives - I especially like the Big Game. I'm a big fan of that "willow leaf" blade shape. He doesn't say on his website exactly what type of steel he uses, though. How did you know before getting the knife that it was S60V? I'm looking forward to trying out a new VG-10 blade on hogs this spring. Happy holidays and enjoy the pork!

Actually, if you look around a bit more on his site, it is there that he uses S60V on all of his knives. I had to look a little, but it's there.
 
Actually, if you look around a bit more on his site, it is there that he uses S60V on all of his knives. I had to look a little, but it's there.

Exactly, you have to look around, but its there. He has a whole section on his steel, and goes into great detail on powdered metal technology, but doesn't once mention that he actually uses S60V lol. Oh well. Far as I'm concerned, if a custom maker cranks out killer blades, his web site can be a little scatter-brained if it has to. At least he has one, and I've seen far, far worse :D

Planecat, to answer your question, I bought the knife from him at the Dixie Deer Classic in Raleigh NC earlier this year, so we had plenty of face time to talk about all the aspects. He's a nice guy, sharpens peoples knives for a song there at the show and always has time to talk knives.
 
I've known about Dunn knives for a long time as my BIL is an avid trapper and bought some of his knives at a trapping convention several years back.

Does anyone know if he offers and synthetic handle materials or if is willing to? The wood and laminate handles don't appeal to me at all, but the knives do.
 
I found with my ultra polished (.05 micron) CPM M4 Mule that it also worked better after cutting and exposing the carbides and getting a more toothy edge. The next hog I got was 400 lbs, and with a very sharp but much less polished edge easily took on that hog including cutting off the legs at the knees and the head. For the pure slicing of skinning I have found going to a very sharp but still toothy edge works much better than polished as you are doing pure slicing, no push cutting, which teeth really are needed for.

Mike
 
I found with my ultra polished (.05 micron) CPM M4 Mule that it also worked better after cutting and exposing the carbides and getting a more toothy edge. The next hog I got was 400 lbs, and with a very sharp but much less polished edge easily took on that hog including cutting off the legs at the knees and the head. For the pure slicing of skinning I have found going to a very sharp but still toothy edge works much better than polished as you are doing pure slicing, no push cutting, which teeth really are needed for.

Mike

I read your review a few months back on that M4/hog deal (nice shooting too btw) and it immediately came to mind as I was writing this up. Makes me wonder if it would be the same result from simply stopping the sharpening procedure at a lesser finish level, or if the natural wearing down of the steel to the carbides is what really produces the better cutting edge. I know me, and stopping at anything shy of .25 mic diamond strop and then plain horse butt leather would be nearly impossible lol, so it likely a moot discussion :D

Not to hijack my own thread, but Im a big 10mm fan as well. It and the 41 Mag (revolver version of 10mm with a tic more oomph for the non-gun freaks in the room) have always baffled me as to why the shooting public never took to them. Both wonderful rounds. A Glock 20 stacked to the hilt is a whole mess of firepower to hold in one hand.
 
I have owned Dunn knives for 20 years..he sells mainly S60V however last year my buddy broke one of his knives... I called the Dunn shop and told him what happened..it was my buddies fault. He said send me the knife and I will send you a NEW one.. Great knives and great service. This is the 2nd time in 20 yrs he has replaced a knife no questions asked. I believe he also dabbles in S90V..
for the money it is hard to beat a Dunn.
 
I think just stopping at 1000-2000 grit with perhaps a very light stropping if there is a tiny burr should work good for skinning. I've even had S90V work good at 320 grit with a light stropping, but I think a bit finer finish is more ideal.

I totally agree about the 10mm and .41 Magnum. With Double Tap ammo loads (I'm about to order some this afternoon) you get a 200 gr WFN super hard lead bullet out of the 4.6" Glock 20 barrel. Out of a 6" barrel in the G20 you get closer to 1450 FPS, very close to a higher end .41 Magnum load. The .41 Magnum is a wonderful gun to shoot and after shorting my buddy's I offered to buy it on the spot (S&W 4" revolver). It was accurate as heck and really not bad for recoil as most powerful revolvers can be. A hot handload out of a .41 Magnum has plenty of pop for deer, Pigs, and larger critters with the right bullets and load. The 10mm and .41 Magnum are both great cartridges with very strong cult followings, too bad they aren't mainstream to lower the costs.

Mike

I read your review a few months back on that M4/hog deal (nice shooting too btw) and it immediately came to mind as I was writing this up. Makes me wonder if it would be the same result from simply stopping the sharpening procedure at a lesser finish level, or if the natural wearing down of the steel to the carbides is what really produces the better cutting edge. I know me, and stopping at anything shy of .25 mic diamond strop and then plain horse butt leather would be nearly impossible lol, so it likely a moot discussion :D

Not to hijack my own thread, but Im a big 10mm fan as well. It and the 41 Mag (revolver version of 10mm with a tic more oomph for the non-gun freaks in the room) have always baffled me as to why the shooting public never took to them. Both wonderful rounds. A Glock 20 stacked to the hilt is a whole mess of firepower to hold in one hand.
 
So those WFN 200 gr. feed well and will group? Ive heard that poly rifling and cast bullets don't play well. The 6" bbl conventional rifled? But yeah, there's nothing like a heavy, long, WFN or WLN cast bullet at moderate velocity. DAYS of penetration and plenty of energy transfer along the way.
 
That WFN is so hard it is Glock friendly, and feeds and groups well from what I've heard. The 6" barrel I'm looking at (KKM) is conventional rifled for lead friendly shooting. At 1300-1450 FPS it is a thumper with massive penetration. There is also a 230 Gr 10mm load with a WFN at 1100 FPS from the 4.6" barrel, that should be an unreal stopper. At that weight I wonder about feeding, but Double Tap tests all their 10mm loads in the G20 so I'm guessing it should feed good. I'd test any hunting or SD load extensively prior to using them in the field (or house for SD loads, but I sure hope I never have to use my SD loads).

Mike
 
I've heard the horror stories and mfg recommendations, but have shot probably 5000 rounds of cast lead through my Glock 20. The lead comes right out in a 50/50 solution of std solution HO and vinegar (don't do that to any other gun - glock is the only coating I know that can take it for sure). Soak in basic solution when done is recommended (baking soda will work). You can watch the lead flow out of the barrel. I've found they shoot good and save money if you want to shoot a lot. And I agree you'll have to get a big honkin' pistol to top the number of foot pounds available for use in a mod 20 with hot 10mm rounds!
 
Indeed if you add it up, a Glock 20, size for size, is some of about the most compact firepower ft lb for ft lb you can find in the handgun world. Highly, highly underrated gun/cartridge combo. Though it does surprise me the G20 and those Double Tap loads do as well as they do. I'd hunt anything in the east out to 40-50 yrds with that setup.
 
Thanks for the info Broos, I may order up some lead bullets for the G20 to load up. I have tons of jacketed bullets to shoot up still including my accuracy champion 165 gr. Winchester flat points. With 15 rounds at 750 ft lbs (or a fair bit more with a 6" barrel) a piece the G20 is a formidable piece.
 
i wonder if this dunn fellow is the same guy that's placed ads in Fur,FISH ' & Game for a while now. one of the great mysteries was the small pop. of the .41.bought a winchester .356 yrs back & was able to get 3 cases of the 250 gr. ammo at closeout. in a small package with williams peeps this can handle most anything up to 100 yds in usa. took an elk in colo. & 250 slug broke both shoulders , bullet was under skin on opposite side. shot was only 60 yds.
 
How did you handle the hide? When I've butchered a hog, we would boil it (when dead, of course ;)), and scrub the hide off with metal scrapers or bricks. This greatly reduced the need to cut through all the junk in the hide. We cook it with the hide on, and it just flakes off, kind of like a trout.
 
Two ways I do it: 1. the old fashioned way (hang it and skin it with a knife), or 2. Cut around the ankles, up the leg around the neck so it's a continuous cut. Put a small rock behind the head, tie around the bottom with a rope, tie other end of rope to rear of truck, tie front legs to tree, put truck in drive and pull off skin slowly. Messy but fast.
 
How did you handle the hide? When I've butchered a hog, we would boil it (when dead, of course ;)), and scrub the hide off with metal scrapers or bricks. This greatly reduced the need to cut through all the junk in the hide. We cook it with the hide on, and it just flakes off, kind of like a trout.

We just cleaned them with running water and a wire brush scraper and skinned them from there. Lacked the facilities to boil the whole pig, though I would love to do one skin on sometime for a whole-hog bbq :D
 
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