Dutch - Oregon Trail

The bevel does seem to have uneven grind - flatter at the toe steepening towards its heel, it could be intentional and not unheard of. Not that such an axe is at all suitable to using brute force but a steeper angle at the toe can be specifically used to power through a knot with less chance of nicking the edge. Generally my approach with these axes' bevels is to begin flat, though no more acute than 25° for anything other than a carpentry, in the conventional sense of that word, axe, then see how the edge reacts and gradually grind steeper and steeper if its needed, and it usually is needed, heading towards 45° which I have yet to hit, always stopping well before that °.
 
Kevin Houtzager said:
Let me rephrase that: It's actually some kind of tar, based on quenching oil. The axe that I'm getting has it on it as well. I believe the granular surface is a mixture of carbon and tar. When you sand it of (haven't found another sollution except for wire brushing, which takes ages). There is usually some very light rust underneath, although that can cause some pitting over time. The Kent pattern axe in this topic had it on it as well, and my goosewing had it to. Other axes that I had had it as well. The only other in my collection that had it on it is the French Carpenters axe. You don't see it on current production axes anymore in europe, but you do see it on models dating 1970 all the way up to the middle ages....
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That stuff, whatever it is doesn't bother me at all
dscf3719.jpg
 
Some old impact tools were 'blessed' with a crappy factory handle. When the handle breaks an essentially NOS tool is set aside and preseved in that state. Meanwhile that tool's siblings that were given good handles were worked to death. From the tool's perspective the crappy handle was a blessing - for us collectors, too.
 
Kevin, pictures! Maybe I missed mentioned what you picked up but I’m curious...
 
Kevin, you are saying the axe from, De Scheepstimmerman, one of my all-time favorite axe representations, is like the one you have gotten your hands on? These axes are pretty strongly associated to the 17th century Dutch tool makers. I don't want to go spoiling any of your surprises but when you can detail the axe you have I would be that interested.
 
Wow, a beauty, if for nothing else than for the clarity of the materials and construction method it shows. Not the strong identity of the Dutch axes, and you probably describe the origins accurately, the socket surely seems to have Swedish features to my eye also. Thanks for posting on the ever so interesting map also.
 
Kevin that is a beautiful and impressive axe! I know little about them but plan to change that.
Quite a specimen, your handling of it looks great - I'm not super familiar with what an era specific handle would look like but your work looks quite solid. Slight upswing, slips into the collar and looks like it fills that eye to being tight without the need of a wedge.

What a neat thing to have the opportunity to hunt down, clean, and work on and with :thumbsup:

I hope your Elwell finds a kind and loving home - I imagine it was concerned when you introduced them and immediately started packing its bags lol.

*I seem to have an issue with personification of tools...
 
Awesome axe! Well done.

I'd like to see a photo of the opposite side. I'm wonering how the steel is welded on to the WI body.
 

Vienna by Agent Hierarchy


Vienna by Agent Hierarchy


Vienna by Agent Hierarchy


Vienna by Agent Hierarchy


Vienna by Agent Hierarchy


Vienna by Agent Hierarchy


Vienna by Agent Hierarchy


Vienna by Agent Hierarchy

It wants to be sharp and work. The whole head/blade seems solid. I really like the handle on it now,with the offset, but it isn't wide enough through the eye at the end. Probably a new carve will need a little coercion for a nice offset; Hickory, Maple, Cherry, or Birch - the last three woods, local claims if I use what I have.

I don't recognize the marking. If anyone does, please share.

WD-40 and rag doesn't pull any brown/orange from it - even through the eye - clean. Cleaner than most things I own. Not sure how it was kept or previously cleaned but it worked.

It actually pared some months-drying Birch flat even with the edge that it has on it.

2lbs 9+oz on the head without the handle. 15.5" overall with current handle.
 
Kevin,thank you for all the cool data you provide,it's much appreciated.
I think this,(and your maps)is fairly important:
Kevin Houtzager said:
And most of Dutch axe design has evolved from French origin.
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As in re: what Ernest said up above,the possible Swedish connection.It's probably more likely to be thee other way around,from the Rhine and Loire valleys northward,throught the Low Countries to Scandinavia(direction-wise).

Kevin Houtzager said:
Since those are way older still, it could be work hardening? In all actuality the older a steel tool or weapon gets, the harder it becomes once used and preserved. Thats why Gb uses maganese in the axes: Work hardens them faster.
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No,(in my opinion),steel does not work-harden in the the course of woodworking operations.Not enough dynamic,physical pressure on steel.

Mg actually serves other,more important functions in metallurgy.Actually,the presence of Mg in an alloy what really qualifies it as "steel"(nowadays).

And it's a beautiful axe,that one.Thanks for showing it.


Agent_H said:
Cleaner than most things I own. Not sure how it was kept or previously cleaned but it worked.
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Agent_H,that's a great tool,looks (and obviously works) great.

Now between your close-up photos,and your saying that it's not coated with anything....I'd have to say that it was electro-eroded,and then stabilised with something like phosphoric treatment...(that's why the edge may be usable,it was also "sharpened" in the electro-process).

But yeah,neat side-axe!
 
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