Dyeing Leather

Mundele

Mundele

Joined
Aug 5, 2000
Messages
403
Hey Y'all...

I bought some fiebings leather dye and was trying it out on a scrap of leather. It went on very blotchy and uneven. Am I doing something wrong? I just swabbed it on there with. (actually tried both a little square of cloth and a couple 'Q-tips')

--Matt
 
I've been using the black Fiebings oil dye for a while, and it works great. Then I got this brown dye, and it doesnt go in even easily at all. The best results were rubbed on very briskly with a cloth wet with the dye. Otherwise I also get those weird blotches of brown and almost black. My leatherwork is just plain terrible. Someone tell me how to dye a piece of leather evenly?
 
The dye will go on more even when rubbed in with a rag followed by rubbing in saddle soap right after.The saddle soap spreads the dye and remoisterizes the leather as the alcohol in the dye tends to dehydrate the leather.
Mike
 
I dont like to dye leather, but on the rare occasion that I do, I use fiebings, I apply it with those fuzzy daubers on the twisted wire handles, sorry I can't remember the name of them, they are common. I apply the dye in circular motions for the most part, you must let the piece dry completely before applying additional coats. Using that method, I have not really had any problems. One thing, before dying, wipe the piece with acetone or oxcalic acid,I believe thats the right name, to completely clean the leather of any oils, waxes, dirt, etc.
Hope this helps a little.
 
Well I'm no expert but this works for me, I take a well water soaked rag and dab it all over my sheath to dampen it a little, then I use about a 1/4-3/8" wide artist brush and start applying the dye, the sheath will absorb the dye rather quickly and unevenly but I keep applying until the leather is well saturated and the dye will stand on the leather for a few seconds, I basicly just keep applying the dye until it looks like an even coat has been applied and I get the even color I'm wanting. I hope this helps, good luck. ;)

Bill
 
An old saddle maker here in town submerges the leather in water for a second or two before dyeing. He gives it two coats allowing it to dry between coats. Give that a try. I switched to black Lincoln Dye
 
I use the little wool dauber thingess too. (Tandy was selling them rediculously cheap in their last sale circular. ) Keep the dauber dripply wet and flow the dye on rapidly. Resist the temptation to go back and keep rubbing more in. It will start changing Apparent color immediately as the solvent starts to evaporate from where you just applied it, so looks are misleading. When its completely dry you can add another coat and it evens out. Leather is a natural material with natural surface variations, so I think we cant expect perfect uniformity. Part of its charm what?
 
Okay, I assumed you dyed it after the item was finished (sewed and all). Am I right? If I were to dye the leather beforehand and then wet the leather to mold it around the knife then, would the dye 'leach out' of the leather while it is soaking?

--Matt
 
One more (dumb) question...

Can you dip a sheath in that beeswax\oil mixture if it has a wooden bladecatcher, or would that not work too well (i.e. will the slot in the bladecatcher get clogged up with wax?)

--MAtt
 
Yes, wet the leather and mold it to the knife. After it dries, smooth the edges and dip it in water for only a second before dyeing. Let it dry and then give it one more coat. I warm up kiwi shoe polish on the stove to make it liquid and rub it into the leather. It soaks it up and shines after buffing with a soft towel.
 
There are other ways to do it but here is what I have found that works for me. Make a paper sheath for the knife, trace it on the leather, cut it out with a knife, glue it together, I drill for the stitching, stitch it together, soak it very wet, put the knife in and wet form it. If its a stainless blade you can leave it in for quite a while. Next remove the knife and let it dry for a couple days. Use the belt sander and grind the edges close to the stitching, switch to a fine belt and smooth the edges. Be sure to use a belt that hasnt been used on steel because it will turn the leather black and very ugly. Use a smooth bone or antler to smooth the edges even more. Next wet it down again but not soaking wet or the form will try to straighten back out, (just dip it quick), now put the leather dye on and let it dry for a day and put another coat on. I use Lincoln leather dye. After it dries good melt the kiwi shoe dye on the stove and rub a nice coat into the leather. Pretend it is an expensive Italian pair of shoes and buff it till shines. Touch it up with the same polish for years to come. Thanks for reading all of this, hope it is usefull.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top