- Joined
- Jul 6, 2009
- Messages
- 11,678
I bought a Raffir Noble (veteran) and could NOT operate the lock without EXTREME trouble. I got a RMA from Spyderco and was going to send it back, but I love the knife's thin blade and scales so much that I couldn't do it.
I read Sal's recent post where some fellow had moved the spring forward so I decided to do that also. Was really quite an easy fix, although I "seldom" take a knife apart. Just takes a T6 and a T8 and you're good to go. There is no Lock-tite, thankfully, and it's easy.
BTW, it's just as easy to reassemble, although obviously the warranty is now up in smoke. I'm not worried about that, as I've never needed warranty work for a Spyderco, and I've carried them for the last forty yrs or so.
Just tape the blade edge or keep some BandAids on hand. I nicked myself three times without knowing it, until I saw the blood flowing. Very unusual for me, as I sharpen a lot of knives...
What a WONDERFULLY SHARP BLADE!
I removed the scales, the steel liners and blade, as well as the lock-bar.
The first pic is the "standard" position of the spring, slid all the way to the right in its channel.
So, I removed the lock-bar and slid the spring way forward to the left. This really worked great until I tried to close the knife...and it wouldn't. The blade would hit the spring tip and wouldn't fully close, as per the second pic.
So, I slid the spring back a tiny bit to get the spring's tip out of the way of the blade, and it works like a champ. (pics 3 and 4) The spring is under constant pressure, so it will NOT move around under normal use.
Pic 5 shows the present location of the spring in its channel, having been moved to the "left" 0.273"...about 1/4 inch is fine.
The last pic (6) shows the blade at the "break" point...where the blade is first unlocked.
The spring pressure to release the lock is just fine now. It is still a very solid snap and lockup, but a pleasure to operate. I think this is a very easy "fix" and doesn't require any mods of the spring. But I'm completely happy just backing off the spring enough so that the blade closes freely.
I read Sal's recent post where some fellow had moved the spring forward so I decided to do that also. Was really quite an easy fix, although I "seldom" take a knife apart. Just takes a T6 and a T8 and you're good to go. There is no Lock-tite, thankfully, and it's easy.
BTW, it's just as easy to reassemble, although obviously the warranty is now up in smoke. I'm not worried about that, as I've never needed warranty work for a Spyderco, and I've carried them for the last forty yrs or so.
Just tape the blade edge or keep some BandAids on hand. I nicked myself three times without knowing it, until I saw the blood flowing. Very unusual for me, as I sharpen a lot of knives...
What a WONDERFULLY SHARP BLADE!
I removed the scales, the steel liners and blade, as well as the lock-bar.
The first pic is the "standard" position of the spring, slid all the way to the right in its channel.
So, I removed the lock-bar and slid the spring way forward to the left. This really worked great until I tried to close the knife...and it wouldn't. The blade would hit the spring tip and wouldn't fully close, as per the second pic.
So, I slid the spring back a tiny bit to get the spring's tip out of the way of the blade, and it works like a champ. (pics 3 and 4) The spring is under constant pressure, so it will NOT move around under normal use.
Pic 5 shows the present location of the spring in its channel, having been moved to the "left" 0.273"...about 1/4 inch is fine.
The last pic (6) shows the blade at the "break" point...where the blade is first unlocked.
The spring pressure to release the lock is just fine now. It is still a very solid snap and lockup, but a pleasure to operate. I think this is a very easy "fix" and doesn't require any mods of the spring. But I'm completely happy just backing off the spring enough so that the blade closes freely.
Last edited:
