EDC/EDC2 Fastener Barrels

adamlau

adamlau

Joined
Oct 13, 2002
Messages
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I am assuming the EDC2 will reuse the same barrels. I am hoping that they do not. Of the four EDC I have in my possession, three exhibited barrels which either galled or cold welding to the handle. Jo has kindly sent me replacement hardware when requested, but I believe this is an issue worth directing some attention to. I should not have to be concerned with securing an 8d common wire nail (in lieu of a punch tool), a hammer and a cut-off wheel (to take down deformed aluminum) with a pass through the freezer to remove said barrels. Anyone else have difficulty removing the barrels upon disassembly?

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I have 5 EDCs and I've never experienced that. They get a little snug, but I've always been able to push them out with a pen.

I'm going to have to look.. but perhaps the direction you push them matters.
 
I had one such a case when I was changing handle scales on my LC. But then again, I'm a total maroon when it comes to mucking about with tools but I can attest that Adam knows his sh*t
 
One the one hand, the scales aren't really intended to be removed, we build a finished knife. But on the other hand they can be removed and plenty of people people do it.

Our tolerance on the pins and the holes are tight. The stackup allows for up to half a thou interference which means some pins get tapped in.

Neither Jo not I have ever run into a problem pulling pins, and we've both done plenty, but you need a good set up and technique.

A nail like that might push into the hole and spread the pin making it tighter in the hole. You need a smaller pin that fits the minor diameter of the pin to sit against the red lock tight pin (sig side) to drift it out against a fastener. You shouldn't be pressing on the pin or using a nail for this.


I'm sorry you're having trouble but you might not be using the right tool and technique for the job. We're always happy to help someone out who needs help for the cost of return shipping, but changing the design to make the pins easier to get in and out goes against their primary function which is to hold the scales tightly and accurately in place.

Many knives the pins are peened or swedged and not replaceable at all. Ours are not always easy to get in and out. I'm sorry but they're not intended to be. It can be done, but ideally not with a nail.
 
I haven't had the pleasure of owning one of your knives yet ... but am really glad I got in on the preorder for your EDC2 ... thank you for that option Nathan.

I don't know that I'd ever want to change scales but just reading this post ... maybe a roll pin punch of the correct size would be a decent option adam. I don't know the size or if you can get a roll pin punch to fit it .... but if you could get one that fit it wouldn't spread the pin but push it and tap it out ... just a thought.
 
I've pulled scales several times for swaps or fastener retrofits and never experienced that. My process (shared because it has worked for me, and should not be seen as superceding what Nate wrote above!):

-With two wrenches, keep the sig side allen screw stationary while loosening from the LA side.
-Remove all LA side screws.
-Remove LA side scale.
-Set scale aside and rethread the LA side screws into the exposed fastener barrels finger tight.
-Lightly tap the heads of the LA side screws until the barrel is driven through/into the tang and the sig side scale is loose. (I generally do this with the butt of a screwdriver with a hard plastic handle so as not to mar the screw head, and have not yet had it take a ton of pressure to get them to move this way. I remember one or two barrels sticking hard enough to grip the screwdriver by the steel and tap harder with the side of the handle.)
-Remove the LA side screws again and set them aside.
-If the barrels are sticking at all, a little wiggle of the sig side scale generally extracts them the rest of the way.
 
^ thank you for the very clear step-by-step Dave... Ever since my snafu with the LC and handle scales change from terotuf to G10, I have had no other issues and I have played around with a handful of different CPK patterns changing scales, taking scales off for lanyards, etc.
 
Casinostocks said:
^ thank you for the very clear step-by-step Dave... Ever since my snafu with the LC and handle scales change from terotuf to G10, I have had no other issues and I have played around with a handful of different CPK patterns changing scales, taking scales off for lanyards, etc.
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Remind me what problem you had with that Mat. I remember you mentioning it, but not the specifics.
 
Hard Knocks said:
Remind me what problem you had with that Mat. I remember you mentioning it, but not the specifics.
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Stuck barrel just like Adam's and I must have tapped it in expanding it like Nathan had suggested. I had also forgotten which fastner had the red loctite...
 
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Casinostocks said:
Stuck barrel just like Adam's and I must have tapped it in expanding it like Nathan had suggested. I had also forgotten which faster had the red loctite...
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Thanks for refreshing my memory. That red loctite for sure does not want to break loose. I guess I should have stated that is why I break loose the LA side screw, the side that is not loctited into the barrel.
 
Nathan the Machinist said:
Our tolerance on the pins and the holes are tight...some pins get tapped in...Ours are not always easy to get in and out...It can be done, but ideally not with a nail.
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Should have mentioned that I progressed from a rubber mallet to a Delrin AR-15 takedown tool to a framing hammer and an 8d nail. The takedown tool was deforming from the repeated blows from a milled-faced framing hammer, in retrospect I should have used a smooth-faced striking device. Perhaps a 0.148 or 0.165 (versus 0.134) common. I'll look into picking up a pin punch which properly fits the minor diameter of the barrel (none of mine do).
 
you're better off pushing using the threads than pushing via od of the barrel
 
adamlau said:
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:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:

Damn Adam I give you credit for tenacity!!

I've taken off a set of scales Nathan epoxied, yes epoxied to the tang with less damage. And I took out the pins! Yowzer!

Definitely not like that though.

I didn't do it like Dave did but that's because Epoxy.

I do think what Dave said to do would work though.

Good luck on your next one!!
 
Leaving the screw in the barrel and tapping the screw itself will be the initial approach the next time around. Followed by an appropriately sized punch. Then a hammer, a nail and a cut-off wheel if all else fails :)
 
adamlau said:
Leaving the screw in the barrel and tapping the screw itself will be the initial approach the next time around. Followed by an appropriately sized punch. Then a hammer, a nail and a cut-off wheel if all else fails :)
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You forgot rosebud and plasma cutter lol. Hope the next one goes better for you Adam.
 
adamlau said:
Leaving the screw in the barrel and tapping the screw itself will be the initial approach the next time around. Followed by an appropriately sized punch. Then a hammer, a nail and a cut-off wheel if all else fails :)
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Maybe hit it with a little lube before all the screwing and tapping so you don't have to resort to punching?? :thumbsup:;)
 
After making a few sets of scales now for CPK knives, I'm starting to get a feel for the fasteners. Due to the soft barrel material and the very close tolerances, I only press by hand and proceed cautiously!

On my LC the first time I took off the scales I could not press the center barrel out of the tang. The barrel would press through all but the last 1/8". I used a strip of Emory paper wrapped around the barrel and used the hex wrench to turn the fastener and barrel to polish it, holding the barrel by the Emory paper (400 grit). The fastener came out smoothly. It felt like it was for sure going to gall up if I had not done this.

I have since taken a piece of 400 grit paper and polished all of my fastener barrels and I have no more concerns.

My encouragement to all is that the fasteners will come out if you are careful, but try to have a feel for it. A very light polish removes any concerns you may have thereafter.
 
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