Edge Pro Matrix resin bond diamond stones

YES - the DIAMOND MATRIX STONES made things A LOT EASIER - to me...

THIS IS THE WAY SHARPENING is supposed to be on:

S110V
CPM M4
ZDP-189
CPM-154
S30V
S35V
D2
VG-10
154CM
154-CM

to mention a few!

Thanks for asking. Do not forget a GOOD stropping leather...!!!
 
I own a set of them as well, but haven't spent much time with them (yet). Saving them for special occasions and my better blades.

(Don't ask...it's a sickness. :p)
 
I used to clean them after every knife. Worse than you. If you watch this:

simple few minutes - you get the whole bottom line... took me a year to learn the main things on this YOUTUBE
above... a YEAR - trial & error...
 
Yeah, I've seen it. I've had the pleasure of speaking with David on the phone and via PMs over the past couple of years.
 
Nice pics. Do you have any details for what stones were used before those pics were taken? I'm curious if we see that much difference with a stone 20 microns or below. If it was a course stone or surface mount diamonds, I'm not too surprised.
It's from power sharpening. I don't want to undermine Diemaker. :)
Debates "edge trailing vs edge leading" are 150 years old. Unfortunately, SEM and optical microscopy photos come from one side only. Sorry for the offtopic.
 
According to Wicked Edge there's little difference:

I’ve heard that it’s proper to sharpen into the blade. Why do your videos show the stone moving away from the blade? (wickededgeusa.com)

The guys at KME echo the same sentiment about going into the blade to slash any burr off. Seems like in all these cases though it's always done just using the chosen coarse/medium/fine stones until lapping films and strops where you would be using edge leading only and finishing that way regardless of which stroke was used earlier so seems like a mute point unless you aren't ever finishing with a strop or lapping film? Then again on the edge pro tutorial the lapping films are used edge leading there as well so who knows. As Diemaker said seems like alot of it is the abrasive in question too, so when I pick up some more of his stones/get back to sharpening with diamonds I'll stick to just edge trailing, but for whatever reason I much prefer sharpening into the edge.

Sorry, I know it's a off topic but after watching the video above where he talks about stropping, How exactly do I compensate for the angle change with a bare strop on the edge pro? Typically I like to just ink the bevel but will that even work with a strop minus any compound? Curious how to go about it as I don't trust my freehand enough to prevent rolling the edge..

You think using a fine grit Nagura often would work to clean the gunk off the matrix stones as an alternative to using alcohol? If that's gonna cause them undue wear on the resin over time I'll go with the alcohol and a paper towel instead.
 
BLUES - thanks for your notes... My sickness is always having my EDCs sharp as my straight razors... LOL

RUNS WITH KNIVES -
I use a Edge Pro blank (like their tape ones - must have bought 10 probably from Ebay over seas) - I like to use the
Edge Pro machines to keep my angles right...

I went to Ebay found a number of 2" by 50 plus inch wide belts Buffalo Tanned leather types (some are smoother).
THEN Slice the 2" to = 2 times 1" belts. THEN measure and Cut them to fit exactly the blanks: Edge Pro BTW - THEN:

I laminate using 3 M - 77 spray can - darn things are 99.5% same thickness as the ending 4000 Diamond Matrix stone.
With paper for protections - Use weights or vise to hold in place till dry.


When STROPPING: (you can get fancy and use 1 micron diamond spray - but I JUST use my hand oils like my straight razor strop(s)...)

I FIRST then double check with my two IGauging Cubes for fun. I am real simple and keep it at 20 degrees all around. Edge trailing of course!
I test with paper - not that is is so great - but MORE rather quick and easy....

See my first post above. I sharpen like I shave. Everyday at least once... (LOL)
 
How exactly do I compensate for the angle change with a bare strop on the edge pro? Typically I like to just ink the bevel but will that even work with a strop minus any compound? Curious how to go about it as I don't trust my freehand enough to prevent rolling the edge..

You think using a fine grit Nagura often would work to clean the gunk off the matrix stones as an alternative to using alcohol? If that's gonna cause them undue wear on the resin over time I'll go with the alcohol and a paper towel instead.
Many of us use a drill stop collar in the post of our edge pro. The idea is that you set the collar with the first stone you're using and then adjust the heigh of the arm with subsequent stones. This keeps the arm at the same angle relative to the blade across different stone or strop thicknesses. Note that David had changed his angle by 3 degrees before that last pass with the 4K stone. And given that leather is not hard, having the exact same angle for a leather strop is not as critical as it is with a stone.

Waiting to see what David says about a Nagura, but I doubt it's a good idea. He has recommended water or alcohol for cleaning and and loose abrasive on glass or ceramic surface for dressing. I'm guessing a Nagura will do very little if anything to clean or dress your stones.
 
Here is a video on the correct drill collar to buy - the quickie ONE!

David Richardson is so correct.


I used to use the drill collar when switching Edge Pro - Chef Diamond - Chosera Stones all the time.

Thanks Dave!
 
37 clams is a lot for a drill stop collar...imho.
 
You are DARN right! Mucho DENERO!


You could buy a GREAT IGuaging ANGLE Cube for that... or 2 cube imports!


I love my angle digital CUBES out to .00 numbers...
 
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I have a Wixey digital angle gauge, but rarely have used it...though it seems like less work overall than using the drill stop collar, which I also have from CKTG.

BTW, we don't post amazon links, per Spark's marching orders. (Unless things have changed while I've been asleep at the wheel. No worries, either way...just a heads up.)
 
Gritomatic sells these.

ACtC-3dZhc1HTEv5Y838i_feg4vj5FIy0bOWcyZLyQX_2orbh1yZYjuGdfT8Hx6qG4DkY_pm8NpeCQgFaPnO-Ak9PpkJ6Ar_5qzEY3cNbzgEfoG7yfY0NfklwdSqUCyoMUJzJKXGqa1boPHGXWu6H50K_LZY=w360


O.B.
 
That orange one would look promising based upon surface area if it is the right diameter for the Edge Pro.

Maybe we can ask Gritomatic Gritomatic

The topmost one in the image can be located here on the Gritomatic site. The orange one appears to be sold out. (Both advertised as working with the Edge Pro.)
 
Round compensator, orange compensator (blue on the photo), fine-tuning adapter fit Edge Pro. The Orange version is phased out.
20201129_122441.jpg
 
37 clams is a lot for a drill stop collar...imho.
No doubt. You can check the Gritomatic options above or just go to the hardware store. It's about convenience and whether or not you want a thump screw. You may or may not be able to find a thump screw at that fits at your local hardware store. If not, you can use an allen driver. Not as convenient but it works.
 
No doubt. You can check the Gritomatic options above or just go to the hardware store. It's about convenience and whether or not you want a thump screw. You may or may not be able to find a thump screw at that fits at your local hardware store. If not, you can use an allen driver. Not as convenient but it works.

Mine came with the allen driver from CKTG. It works fine. Since I bought the Wixey sometime later, I now have the option of going digital or old school. Either works, especially for a Luddite like myself.

Heck, I even have an analog angle gauge that I like a lot. Have had it for many years.
 
It appears that the best way - even with all the Diamond Matrix stones - is the marking felt pen and finding the right KNIFE'S ORIGINAL angle(s) - PERIOD.

Start with a Edge Pro 600 stone or higher to find the full edge and make sure it takes OFF the whole marked edge.

The angle cube(s) can be used however when you get the math down right.

Please see the Edge Pro videos from their website...
 
It appears that the best way - even with all the Diamond Matrix stones - is the marking felt pen and finding the right KNIFE'S ORIGINAL angle(s) - PERIOD.

That assumes that the sharpener wants to keep or maintain the original angle. Many here do not. (I mostly do, just because I'm a lazy so and so. No wonder retirement agrees with me.)
 
It appears that the best way - even with all the Diamond Matrix stones - is the marking felt pen and finding the right KNIFE'S ORIGINAL angle(s) - PERIOD.

Start with a Edge Pro 600 stone or higher to find the full edge and make sure it takes OFF the whole marked edge.

The angle cube(s) can be used however when you get the math down right.

Please see the Edge Pro videos from their website...
I can get my EP dialed with an angle cube very well. Sharpie is still preferred to verify. I use a sharpie when using bench stones as well to ensure I'm hitting the whole edge.
 
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