edge pro users, need some advice

H

hemi1300

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Sep 9, 2013
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have had my edge pro for a few years now and have used it many times. I also bought the sharpmaker a while back and for some reason always have better results with the sharpmaker and getting a hair popping edge with my benchmade knives. Just bought the new diamond matrix stones, 650 and 1100, while the stones perform great and love the way the edge looks after, i still have problems finishing the edge with the 1100 to effortlessly slice paper. After using the edge pro to sharpen the edge, about 10 slices on the sharpmaker and it is razor sharp. Shouldnt i be able to get the edge just as sharp with the edge pro and 1100 stone vs the sharpmaker? Not sure if my technique is wrong or i need to continue on to finer stones with the edge pro to get the edge im looking for. Should you always strop the edge after using the edge pro to finish it? Have had great luck getting it razor sharp using the strop but feel like the smooth edge doesnt slice as well as an edge that it a bit more toothy, if that makes sense. Any advice/tips would be appreciated
 
I strop the edge a few times after the 1100 and it will easily shave hair. Use very light pressure with the stone. You may have some burr remnant. Just a few passes with the strop.
 
I am not familiar with the stones you have, but if they wear down at different rates, it could be that you are not hitting the apex.

If that’s not the problem, then lighter pressure may do it. I also used the EP + Sharpmaker, and had the same experience as you, but with light pressure I got the same sharpness with just the EP!
 
Thanks guys. Will try extreme light pressure next time and maybe hit the strop just a few times. I always get carried away with the strop and continue stropping until the edge is like a mirror, but I want to keep the edge a bit toothy and not mirror polished. Will try just a few swipes on the strop
 
Your stones will wear at different rates on your edge pro . Also if you don’t use the whole stone it will wear more on the center . That and the above will cause issues and might explain why your not being able to to get a nice edge hair popping or at the least receipt paper slicing sharp.
There’s a collar you can get to put on your edge pro bar to keep all the stones at the right angle no matter how much one is worn over the other unless you have big dips in the stones from not using it all when sharpening . That should help and also use light pressure I mean very little with maybe just the wait of your hand when sharpening.
Hope that helps
 
Shouldn't be my stones, just bought the new diamond matrix stones and have only done 2 or 3 knives so far with them
 
My guess is the fine ceramic Sharpmaker rods are finer than the 1100 diamond stone and giving you a more refined edge?
 
hemi1300 said:
Shouldn't be my stones, just bought the new diamond matrix stones and have only done 2 or 3 knives so far with them
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That’s true then it has to be your technique. Again use only light weight on the arm when sharpening .Covering about a inch or more on the blade sliding it back over the part you just hit for your first pass them pushing back in the next area and repeat . I’ve had really good edges with my edge pro and never had a bad edge so I’m just trying to visualize what your doing wrong . I normally do one side until I get a light bur then flip it to the other side . When you get to polishing stone then it isn’t as important because your just polishing . Make sure though before you start polishing and getting ready for your finished edge you got rid of the initial bur on both sides of the blade . Usually just one light pass on each side will remove it .
 
dug24 said:
My guess is the fine ceramic Sharpmaker rods are finer than the 1100 diamond stone and giving you a more refined edge?
Click to expand...
He should be able to get a hair popping edge and paper slicing effortlessly with just 600
 
Stones can have different thicknesses due to manufacturing or wear.
It is possible that your coarser stones are thinner than the new diamond stones.
If this is the case, you need to adjust the sharpening angle to compensate for the difference in stone thickness.
As mentioned above, there is a adjustment collar.
I use an angle cube.
Hope this helps.
 
Your stones may be brand new, but they could be different thicknesses. I have two older EdgePro diamond stones, fine and ultra-fine (made for ceramic knives) that I use for re-profiling, which pre-date the newer stones made for steel knives, in addition to 200, 440, and 1000 hones. All those stones have always exhibited slight differences in thickness, so using the collar to adjust the arm from stone-to-stone is essential.

De-burring is also essential when using the EdgePro as one makes several passes per side on the EP as opposed to the every-other pattern with the SharpMaker. I don't strop when using the EP, instead finishing up with the 3000 polishing tape. I used to be better with my SM and actually preferred it for less set-up, water mess, and clean-up, but now have gotten much better with the EP and get much better results with the latter.
 
The simplest solution is often the best place to start.

You’re probably not hitting the apex with the Edge Pro. It’s nearly impossible to *miss* the apex with a Sharpmaker, if your secondary bevel is set below 17-18dps and you’re using the 40 degree side of the Sharpmaker. That’s why it’s so easy in comparison.

When you get to the apex on any system, it’s easy to get a screaming edge at 600 grit.

As for your desired mix of aesthetics and performance, I suggest finishing to the desired polish, then putting on a micro bevel at a desired grit. Viola. Polished secondary bevels, teeth at the apex. This is about what I do.
 
hemi1300 said:
Yep, I also use the angle cube
Click to expand...

Just to make sure.
Do you use it for each stone and adjust the sharpening angle to the first decimal?
If so, then deburring might be the issue as suggested by others.
 
Use a flashlight in a dark room and look at the apex straight down. If you see any shimmer there is a bur. You can also use a loup and look a bit closer to see if you can find a bur too.

Many ways to remove the bur if there is one. Sometimes stropping too many times may raise another bur or round the edge... But that can be debatable.

Edit .. After stropping use a hard felt block to remove micro burs.
 
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I know your getting a lot of advice here from folks that are trying to help . Here’s one more if you don’t know is to take a sharpie and mark both sides of your edge on the blade . This will give you a visual on were your making contact with your stone on the edge . Just take a couple light strokes with a dry stone and you can easily see we’re your hitting first . You always want to make sure your hitting the edge and then working back as your sharpening. You “never” want to go higher up working down to the edge .
 
Mr.Wizard said:
Doesn't this just lower the final angle slightly, reprofiling over multiple sharpenings?
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If your not reprofiling you always want to start from the edge back .
If he’s getting a better edge on his Spyderco sharpmaker vs his edgepro then more likely then not he’s not reprofiling nor is it needed “sharpmakers” aren’t known for there ease of reprofiling even though they offer that angle option .He might not be hitting the edge first using his edge pro and not even making it to the edge at all and is why I brought up the sharpie trick to make sure he’s hitting the edge first and again to see if he’s even making it to the edge.
 
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