ELMAX vs. ZDP-189 vs. s90v

S

SpyderManBH

Joined
Apr 22, 2015
Messages
25
In the near future I will be purchasing a custom folder and wanted recommendations on these steels.

Im looking for answers to questions like the following:
Which is going to be easiest to sharpen?
Which will hold an edge longest?

I will be using the blade for basic EDC tasks.

Thanks!
 
I think s90v would hold an edge the longest

ELMAX would probably be easiest to sharpen
 
I'd recommend trying them first in production folders before committing to a custom in one.
 
I've found that I favor the S35VN, S30V, Elmax range of balance. Solid edge retention, decent ease of maintenance, good corrosion resistance, etc. I use Elmax very regularly (ZT 0566, ZT 0562, Lionsteel TiSpine) at work and home, and have found it to be a great fit for users. S90V will certainly hold an edge longer, but Elmax easily holds up such that I'm not tethered to sharpening tools.
 
nick21 said:
I think s90v would hold an edge the longest

ELMAX would probably be easiest to sharpen
Click to expand...

Agreed. Also, ZDP-189 gets scary sharp but uncoated can get rust spots depending on where you live, etc. The other two are better for corrosion resistance.
 
S90V will normally hold an edge the longest.

Depending on HT either ELMAX or ZDP could be the easiest to sharpen.

That's all just speaking in general terms.
 
I've owned a ZT in Elmax and 2 spydercos in ZDP, the Elmax was easiest to sharpen by far, and held an edge for a decent amount of time. The ZDP was much harder to sharpen but holds a sharp edge for a very long time, much longer than other knives I own. I've heard S90v holds an edge the longest out of all the common super steels.
 
Most Zero Tolerance models have an Elmax variation. ZT0560, 0561, 0562, 0566, 0770, etc.

I'm pretty sure the only S90V blade I have is a Benchmade 940-1, though the Spyderco Yojimbo 2 has a sprint run in S90V.
 
SpyderManBH said:
Any production knives with these metals youd recommend? I might try out the zdp endura. How about the other metals?
Click to expand...

I'm not a steel junkie, so I'm not the guy to ask. I AM cheap, so my point is that if I were getting a custom I would want to be very experienced with the steel in it. I would have to love it before I put a ring on it.
 
Basic edc needs? Elmax. Good impact resistance, good edge retention, good corrosion resistance, easy to touch up. ZDP can be run at a higher hardness which means considerably greater edge retention at the cost of impact resistance - also, being a tool steel, it is not stainless by nature but that's an easy fix with tuff-glide. S90v is a steel I have bo knowledge of or experience with, but it falls in between the two on all counts IIRC.
 
RamZar said:
Agreed. Also, ZDP-189 gets scary sharp but uncoated can get rust spots depending on where you live, etc. The other two are better for corrosion resistance.
Click to expand...

I was always worried about corrosion on ZDP, but after living in South Florida (100% humidity) and never giving a wiping down after use, my CF ZDP Stretch looks brand new after several years of moderate use. It does take a mean edge and keep it fairly well. It does lose that screaming sharpness quickly but comes right back after a few swipes on a strop.
 
marcinek said:
I'm not a steel junkie, so I'm not the guy to ask. I AM cheap, so my point is that if I were getting a custom I would want to be very experienced with the steel in it. I would have to love it before I put a ring on it.
Click to expand...
Thats a good point, im gonna look for some blades with s30v and elmax that arent super expensive
 
bravodelta said:
I was always worried about corrosion on ZDP, but after living in South Florida (100% humidity) and never giving a wiping down after use, my CF ZDP Stretch looks brand new after several years of moderate use. It does take a mean edge and keep it fairly well. It does lose that screaming sharpness quickly but comes right back after a few swipes on a strop.
Click to expand...

My Spyderco ManBug in ZDP got rust around the pivot area. I carried it in shorts while walking, sweating and being close to Pacific Ocean. I have ZDP on ZT 0350 with DLC coating and William Henry B12 Atlas (ZDP laminate so on the ZDP edge is exposed) with no rust issues. It depends on usage, blade protection and salt exposure.
 
RamZar said:
My Spyderco ManBug in ZDP got rust around the pivot area. I carried it in shorts while walking, sweating and being close to Pacific Ocean. I have ZDP on ZT 0350 with DLC coating and William Henry B12 Atlas (ZDP laminate so on the ZDP edge is exposed) with no rust issues. It depends on usage, blade protection and salt exposure.
Click to expand...

Might I just chime in that Marine Tuff-Glide has kept M4 steel from showing any corrosion whatsoever, even when I was using my Gayle Bradley in a saltwater environment.

Easily-oxidized metals can be an option in humid environments if you aren't opposed to spending some change on a protectant.
 
My Elmax is still going strong. Digging arrowheads out or wood.......and everything else I needed it to do.

No rust and carried daily....rain or shine.

3 years and 6 sharpenings.......nothing but good things to say about my Elmax folder.

Moose
 
Comeuppance said:
Might I just chime in that Marine Tuff-Glide has kept M4 steel from showing any corrosion whatsoever, even when I was using my Gayle Bradley in a saltwater environment.

Easily-oxidized metals can be an option in humid environments if you aren't opposed to spending some change on a protectant.
Click to expand...

The ManBug ZDP was wiped and it was surprising to see rust just around the pivot area. I carry a ManBug H-1 for that purpose now. It needs no real maintenance at all.
 
SpyderManBH said:
Thats a good point, im gonna look for some blades with s30v and elmax that arent super expensive
Click to expand...

I'd be skeptical that you can learn much of anything about a custom maker's knife by buying production knives with the same steels. The custom maker, if he's good, will give you a better heat treat than you're likely to get in a run-of-the-mill production knife, especially if the custom maker has lots of experience with the steels he uses.

In addition, the geometry of the edge and blade will make as much or more difference in the knife's performance as the steel used.

Spend more time checking out the reputation of the actual knife maker you plan to use. If you find a good knife maker, everything else will take care of itself. If you don't find a good knife maker, you'll be wasting your money regardless of the steel used.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top