EOD Digging knife

M

Mcdaniel1991

Joined
Jun 3, 2014
Messages
9
Hello everyone, I am new here and to be honest new to high quality knives. I am in the planning phase of my custom Explosive Ordnance Disposal (EOD) digging knife. It's main purpose will be to dig/ pry munitions out of the ground.

My choice of steel for the first attempt is ats-34 @ 59HRC and if it goes well I may do it again out of a s-30v or whatever y'all recommend for prying strength.

I will be having Texas knife makers supply do the heat treating and tempering.

Here is a picture of the knife. Everything from the guard forward is to scale but the paper is not quite long enough to get the whole thing.
 
Last edited:
I won't be using it on anything that requires the use of non-ferrous tools. But thanks for the suggestion! I have beryllium tools for those jobs.
 
Interesting concept...............

A couple of questions/comments if you will.

I'm curious how you're going to "do" (I suppose I mean cut) the saw teeth? Those look like they'd be challenging unless you're CNCing this sucker. I also wonder what you need sawteeth for on an EOD digging tool?

Are the grinds chisel grinds? If not, what are they and what angles are you thinking about? If the knife is .25' thick and 1.5" wide the primary bevel is going to be hellaciously thick and a pain to sharpen.

How thick is this EOD tool gonna be? Would you be hollowing it out on the obverse side?

How big are the EODs it's gonna be used to dig up?

The handle looks uncomfortably straight. Is there a reason you haven't contoured it some? Ohhhhh, oh, what is the handle going to be made of and how're you gonna attach it?

Does the tang get drilled out to diminish the weight, and improve the balance, of this tool? Why have a skull crusher on this?

I'm think an S7 or D5 might be the ticket for the 2nd version given the licking you plan on giving this knife.

Just some reactions to your design

Corey
 
You might want to check out the Lesche digging tool. It is the standard used by metal detectors. It has a shovel type blade and sedated teeth on one side to cut through grass has a comfortable insulated handel that is off set from the centerline to give you leverage when digging like a shovel. The blade is curved to give you strength without adding unessary weight.

I commend your efforts but study what is proven to work then improve on that.

Jim
 
Jim McGuinn said:
You might want to check out the Lesche digging tool. It is the standard used by metal detectors. It has a shovel type blade and sedated teeth on one side to cut through grass has a comfortable insulated handel that is off set from the centerline to give you leverage when digging like a shovel. The blade is curved to give you strength without adding unessary weight.

I commend your efforts but study what is proven to work then improve on that.

Jim
Click to expand...

Jim:
Wake them up and tell them to go and get serrated :)

McDanniel:
The teeth will be very difficult to do. Either make basic saw toothed serrations...or leave them off.
 
zGFNEaA.jpg
 
synthesist said:
Interesting concept...............

A couple of questions/comments if you will.

I'm curious how you're going to "do" (I suppose I mean cut) the saw teeth? Those look like they'd be challenging unless you're CNCing this sucker. I also wonder what you need sawteeth for on an EOD digging tool?

I had planed on doing them with a .25" chainsaw file. The purpose is for roots and grass. Most ordnance has been in the ground for 10+ years before we find it.


Are the grinds chisel grinds? If not, what are they and what angles are you thinking about? If the knife is .25' thick and 1.5" wide the primary bevel is going to be hellaciously thick and a pain to sharpen.

I don't think I'm following what you mean here. I planed on the cutting edge at a. 25* bevel. The knife does not need to be able to cut paper just dirt.


How thick is this EOD tool gonna be? Would you be hollowing it out on the obverse side?

.25"", and no it will be solid.

How big are the (munitions) it's gonna be used to dig up?

Ranging anywhere from 30mm to 120mm thick and weighing 10-50lbs.

The handle looks uncomfortably straight. Is there a reason you haven't contoured it some? Ohhhhh, oh, what is the handle going to be made of and how're you gonna attach it?

I left the handle straight simply because I'm new to making knives and have limited tools. Ergonomics are not a big deal as long as it's functional. I planned on using .25" thick G10 attached with .25" hollow brass pins and adhesive.

Does the tang get drilled out to diminish the weight, and improve the balance, of this tool? Why have a skull crusher on this?

Negative , I left it solid for structural purposes, I'm open to suggestion here if I should Balance it? The skull crusher serves as a window breaker.

I'm think an S7 or D5 might be the ticket for the 2nd version given the licking you plan on giving this knife.

Just some reactions to your design

Corey
Click to expand...

Thanks for the comments I replied to them in the above quote .
 
Last edited:
Jim McGuinn said:
You might want to check out the Lesche digging tool. It is the standard used by metal detectors. It has a shovel type blade and sedated teeth on one side to cut through grass has a comfortable insulated handel that is off set from the centerline to give you leverage when digging like a shovel. The blade is curved to give you strength without adding unessary weight.

I commend your efforts but study what is proven to work then improve on that.

Jim
Click to expand...

I appreciate the suggestions. The lesche looks like a solid tool for metal detecting but I'm not sure it would hold up to prying 130mm mortars out of the ground..

This was the knife that motivated my design...
 
Last edited:
So there's a Japanese tool called a Kunai, which despite its prevalent feature in modern day ninja cartoons is NOT A FRICKIN' THROWING KNIFE! ah hem! Sorry about that! Any way my point is, it's a leaf shaped blade that is designed for digging and prying in the garden. Traditionally it was made out of iron, but I bet if you made it out of some serious impact and wear resistant steel, you'd have just about the right tool for the job..
 
Fallkniven has a mine searching knife though it doesn't have teeth.
 
Ergonomics are a big deal, especially in a case like this where the user may be working with the tool for large blocks of time. The better designed it is for using, the longer it can be used without causing strain. As well, the less time it is required to be used since it become economical in use. yes a plain straight handle will work but if you know how the tool is normally used, you can design a more functional fit.
 
You know what you need for your intended purpose best. My only comment would be to reconsider the window breaker point on the tang. In my imaginary knowledge of digging up ordinance, I could envision a need to push on the end of the handle, either as a means to push-penetrate soil/roots or in an attempt to pry a heavy object. The point on the end would likely make that a bit uncomfortable

--nathan
 
I was a Cav. Scout in Vietnam. We were always finding unexploded rounds some would be bobby trapped some not. C-4 worked real well on all of them. One time another group found what turned out to be a 500 lb.bomb we told them "put a ten minute fuse on it and call us before you light it. They put a ten inch fuse on it and called saying its lite. Fuse cord burns approximately one minute per foot not inch. We barely had time to close up the track before it went off. Luckily no one was killed but it was a while before they could hear anything.
 
I hope you're not planning on selling these...

Mcdaniel1991 said:
I appreciate the suggestions. The lesche looks like a solid tool for metal detecting but I'm not sure it would hold up to prying 130mm mortars out of the ground..

This was the knife that motivated my design...
Click to expand...
 
I've made 16 knives for a guy that was a design based off a hori-hori ( dig dig ). Primarily used for digging though it could saw and cut branches etc. 1/4 inch 1095 to about rc55 and those suckers bounce back from a heck of a bend. I'd take one over a folding shovel any day. Edge was single bevel and fully sedated (hahaha) on one side, as per his request. Cross file work helped it dig better of course. Guess my point is that it was a digging knife and it worked wonderfully.
 
Mcdaniel,

Not sure if you are using the phrase "motivated my design" properly. I am surprised no one noticed this earlier, but reading through this post, it is obvious that the photos you posted are straight from the pages of Vehement Knives and your sketches are a blatant ripoff of their EOD/UXO Dig Knife here:

http://vehementknives.com/eoduxo.html

Not only that, but if you read their "About Us" section, their owner Matt is a trained/licensed bomb tech who has worked for years in the field and obviously put some serious thought and field testing into his design, which is extremely unique and customized for the job. Everything from your geometry and bevels to the window breaker and root saw is straight from their design.

Forums like this are a place to get inspiration and feedback on YOUR OWN designs and ideas. I suggest you try to come up with something not taken from someone else. It is discouraging to come on here and see disrespect like this.
 
Bladeinhand hit it right on the nose. Obvious rip off of Vehement knife.

As a maker with over 35 years experience I have had one particular design of mine ripped off by one unreputable company who denied it was my design until I proved it to them,
and then it appeared again a few years later with a very reputable name on it. I have one of each, and they are identical. except for the markings. Both obviously made by the same factory in China!!!!

The second company did in fact pay me royalties on those they sold.

I have often been asked by other makers if I would mind if they copied one of my designs.. My answer has always been, sure, but take my concept and make it yours
through subtle changes in contour, handle shape, bolsters, slotted guard, etc.,etc.,
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top