Epoxy glue vs Epoxy Resin

J

JimDiGritz

Joined
Oct 18, 2021
Messages
50
I've searched this and am still really unclear - I'd appreciate someone confirming this for me!!

I currently glue my scales on using generic 2 part epoxy glue (this stuff: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07KGFCKX4/ref=ewc_pr_img_3?smid=A3RA4HOUZ00YXU&psc=1)

My only gripes are that the setting time seems pretty short (maybe 5-10 mins, despite the advertised 30mins) which makes fitting the scales a bit hectic. It's also 'relatively' expensive since I can buy epoxy cheaper in bulk (something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B082NXN..._dp_AWP6GGY25SA4DRT84TJ6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)

Am I missing something?? Is the glue the same stuff as the bulk epoxy???

Thanks

Jim
 
Epoxy is a polymerized resin. Some folks call it glue, some call it resin ... same thing.

As for the work time, use the slowest setting resin/glue available for most tasks. One Hour cure is the minimum IMHO. I like to use a 24 Hour curing resin. As a general rule, the slower the cure the stronger the bond.

TIP:
Don't clamp the scales too tight. It will squeeze out all the resin and leave a glue starved joint. Use light pressure clamps. Another good practice is to create a reservoir for the resin by slightly hollow grinding the center of the tang or scales. Some folks drill a lot of extra holes through the tang ( Swiss Cheesing the tang) to create epoxy bridges between the two scales. This makes a very strong handle.
 
I think it's basical;ly the same thing, when I ran out of epoxy in the past, I used 2 part resin and hardener as a replacement to fit scales, it worked fine.
I tried a hidden tang after, by just filling a cylindrical mold with resin then balancing the tang upright, and letting it cure for 48 hours.
Then just popped the silicon rubbery mold off and it was in there as tight as you like. I tried to pull the tang out and that thing isn't going anywhere.
It seems to bond to metal just like epoxy glue will.
 
Thanks for all the replies - I am 'swiss cheesing' the tang but will start to add some small countersunk holes/divots in the inside of the scales to keep some glue from squeezing out!

Edit - I should also add holes to the G10 liner I guess... never thought of that!!

I'll try some standard epoxy, a working time of a few hours would be perfect!!

This is my second knife - a basic scalpel design inspired by some knives I saw online:
https://imgur.com/WANqRo5
 
Last edited:
I realize that there are "epoxies" that are one part, but for our purposes, they are not what we mean when we say Epoxy resin. The resins knifemakers use are two-part resins. The one part epoxies need thermal or UV curing, and are of a different type.

Reliable knifemaking epoxies are:
West System Total Flex is great. (The other West System resins/hardeners are also good.)
System Three with the medium or slow hardener is what I use.
The K&G two-part knifemakers epoxy is also good. It has a 24 hour cure.
 
The epoxy is the sealant and shock absorber. The bolts/pins/rivets are the strength. Every maker I know uses epoxy on the scales/tang joint. It prevents corrosion and stuff you don't want getting under the scales ..like bacteria. The only time I don't use epoxy is when it is a take-down fixed-blade knife handle, or on a folder.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
I realize that there are "epoxies" that are one part, but for our purposes, they are not what we mean when we say Epoxy resin. The resins knifemakers use are two-part resins. The one part epoxies need thermal or UV curing, and are of a different type.

Reliable knifemaking epoxies are:
West System Total Flex is great. (The other West System resins/hardeners are also good.)
System Three with the medium or slow hardener is what I use.
The K&G two-part knifemakers epoxy is also good. It has a 24 hour cure.
Click to expand...
I think the West System you mean is called G/flex, not Total Flex. I use their 105 resin mostly with 205 hardener.
 
My bad.

I was referring to Total Boat FlexEpoxy.
www.totalboat.com

TotalBoat Flexible Epoxy Adhesive

High-strength two-part flexible epoxy adhesive for permanent & waterproof structural bonds on wood, fiberglass, metal, glass, and plastic.
www.totalboat.com www.totalboat.com

Yes, the West System epoxy that is popular for knifemakers is G-Flex.

Home | WEST SYSTEM Epoxy

The home of WEST SYSTEM marine-grade epoxy resins and hardeners for boat building, boat repair, home repair, and restoration.
www.westsystem.com www.westsystem.com
 
For removable handles and cleaning/maintenance, epoxy isn't used.
However, few knives are disassembled once they are in the users hands. In commercial kitchen cutlery, most knives have to be sealed today. I know that the scales were just riveted on for centuries, but the laws on commercial kitchens today are stricter.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
For removable handles and cleaning/maintenance, epoxy isn't used.
However, few knives are disassembled once they are in the users hands. In commercial kitchen cutlery, most knives have to be sealed today. I know that the scales were just riveted on for centuries, but the laws on commercial kitchens today are stricter.
Click to expand...

Yeah, that makes sense.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top