Epoxy handles?

T

TheApogeeEvent

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Jul 31, 2019
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Who has applied coat/s of epoxy to their knife handles as a sealer? What kind of epoxy have you used and what were the results? Would something like 5 minute epoxy be good or does it have to be a special type of epoxy/resin such as fiberglass epoxy? I'm not looking to get a showroom floor ready epoxy finish, but something that will work well to protect the handle material and create a smooth clean finish.
 
TheApogeeEvent said:
I've heard of people using super-glue for similar things. Epoxy seems like it would be more durable.
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I can't say because I only used epoxy to glue something but this CA coating I've done is hard as a bone and it polishes very good. I applied 5 or 6 thin layers.

Do a test with epoxy on a piece of wood or plastic to see if it's resistant to scratches and how it polishes.
If you decide to go with CA watch some videos on Youtube to see how it's properly applied and polished.
Don't forget eye protection and a mask because of fumes and vent the place.
 
Can also use polyurethane glue, a.k.a., 'Gorilla Glue' as a sealer for wood. Obviously an off-label usage for it, but it works well. Apply it with a clean rag/cloth (a T-shirt works well, wrapped around a fingertip) in 3 or 4 VERY THIN coats. It cures in a reaction with moisture in the air. When cured, it's a hard and surprisingly scratch-resistant finish and impermeable to moisture. I finished 3 of my Opinels with it, after reshaping the handles and sanding to a high-grit finish (600-800 or so).
9C16sUd.jpg
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
Can also use polyurethane glue, a.k.a., 'Gorilla Glue' as a sealer for wood. Obviously an off-label usage for it, but it works well. Apply it with a clean rag/cloth (a T-shirt works well, wrapped around a fingertip) in 3 or 4 VERY THIN coats. It cures in a reaction with moisture in the air. When cured, it's a hard and surprisingly scratch-resistant finish and impermeable to moisture. I finished 3 of my Opinels with it, after reshaping the handles and sanding to a high-grit finish (600-800 or so).
9C16sUd.jpg
Click to expand...

If you have any work in process pics of that, id Love to see them. I use GG, but so far just underneath as an adhesive.
 
Crag the Brewer said:
If you have any work in process pics of that, id Love to see them. I use GG, but so far just underneath as an adhesive.
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No WIP photos, unfortunately. I was kind of learning & experimenting with many aspects of the project as I went. I'd originally seen the Gorilla Glue method demo'd on an episode of 'Ask This Old House' on PBS and wanted to try it out. I feel the main takeaway for me was in making sure to sand to a high finish first, before applying the glue. Goes on much more smoothly and easily, the smoother the wood finish is to begin with. And the result will be that much glossier, in proportion to the sanded finish. And for a project the size of the Opinel handle, I used no more than a BB-sized droplet of the glue for each coat, spreading it with the t-shirt wrapped over a fingertip. Applying it too heavily will result in bubbling of the finish as it cures. Gorilla Glue will tend to bubble as it reacts with moisture. Used as a glue, instructions say to wet the surface inside the joints with water first, before applying the glue, and it'll bubble & foam a lot when used that way. But you DON'T want to do that if using it as a finish - it'll cure by itself in reaction to the humidity in the air. So, it's important to put in on in extremely thin coats to minimize or avoid that bubbling. Any small bubbles can be lightly sanded away after it cures between coats.
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
No WIP photos, unfortunately. I was kind of learning & experimenting with many aspects of the project as I went. I'd originally seen the Gorilla Glue method demo'd on an episode of 'Ask This Old House' on PBS and wanted to try it out. I feel the main takeaway for me was in making sure to sand to a high finish first, before applying the glue. Goes on much more smoothly and easily, the smoother the wood finish is to begin with. And the result will be that much glossier, in proportion to the sanded finish. And for a project the size of the Opinel handle, I used no more than a BB-sized droplet of the glue for each coat, spreading it with the t-shirt wrapped over a fingertip. Applying it too heavily will result in bubbling of the finish as it cures. Gorilla Glue will tend to bubble as it reacts with moisture. Used as a glue, instructions say to wet the surface inside the joints with water first, before applying the glue, and it'll bubble & foam a lot when used that way. But you DON'T want to do that if using it as a finish - it'll cure by itself in reaction to the humidity in the air. So, it's important to put in on in extremely thin coats to minimize or avoid that bubbling. Any small bubbles can be lightly sanded away after it cures between coats.
Click to expand...

Good info, Thanks.

I once did an experiment to see how well it held without wetting. And you are right, it works fine with just ambient humidity. Very Strong, hitting with a hammer
 
I have used Devcon 2 ton epoxy on 2 knife handles and just finished a hatchet handle. Finish varies depending on the wood used. On hickory I get a shiny/gloss finish using 1 coat. On walnut I got a matte finish and that was with 2 coats. I wouldn't use 5 minute epoxy. Not enough working time. I put on a pair of latex gloves and just rub in very small amount of epoxy at a time making sure to wipe ALL excess off. My glove is thoroughly coated with epoxy when I am done as I use all fingers and palm.
Super glue also works well as a finish but I have only used it once by accident when the super glue tube basically exploded. Can't imagine trying to use it neatly in small amounts without sticking unwanted things to the project. Sounds like it can be done though.
 
TheApogeeEvent said:
Who has applied coat/s of epoxy to their knife handles as a sealer? What kind of epoxy have you used and what were the results? Would something like 5 minute epoxy be good or does it have to be a special type of epoxy/resin such as fiberglass epoxy? I'm not looking to get a showroom floor ready epoxy finish, but something that will work well to protect the handle material and create a smooth clean finish.
Click to expand...

You never said what type of handle material.
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
No WIP photos, unfortunately. I was kind of learning & experimenting with many aspects of the project as I went. I'd originally seen the Gorilla Glue method demo'd on an episode of 'Ask This Old House' on PBS and wanted to try it out. I feel the main takeaway for me was in making sure to sand to a high finish first, before applying the glue. Goes on much more smoothly and easily, the smoother the wood finish is to begin with. And the result will be that much glossier, in proportion to the sanded finish. And for a project the size of the Opinel handle, I used no more than a BB-sized droplet of the glue for each coat, spreading it with the t-shirt wrapped over a fingertip. Applying it too heavily will result in bubbling of the finish as it cures. Gorilla Glue will tend to bubble as it reacts with moisture. Used as a glue, instructions say to wet the surface inside the joints with water first, before applying the glue, and it'll bubble & foam a lot when used that way. But you DON'T want to do that if using it as a finish - it'll cure by itself in reaction to the humidity in the air. So, it's important to put in on in extremely thin coats to minimize or avoid that bubbling. Any small bubbles can be lightly sanded away after it cures between coats.
Click to expand...
I would think that lightly using a lighter or blowtorch can remove air bubbles during the curing process just like when people use resin finishes.
 
notcrazy said:
I have used Devcon 2 ton epoxy on 2 knife handles and just finished a hatchet handle. Finish varies depending on the wood used. On hickory I get a shiny/gloss finish using 1 coat. On walnut I got a matte finish and that was with 2 coats. I wouldn't use 5 minute epoxy. Not enough working time. I put on a pair of latex gloves and just rub in very small amount of epoxy at a time making sure to wipe ALL excess off. My glove is thoroughly coated with epoxy when I am done as I use all fingers and palm.
Super glue also works well as a finish but I have only used it once by accident when the super glue tube basically exploded. Can't imagine trying to use it neatly in small amounts without sticking unwanted things to the project. Sounds like it can be done though.
Click to expand...
I was just using 5 minute epoxy as an example. I would go for 10 minute epoxy or one with more working time.
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
Can also use polyurethane glue, a.k.a., 'Gorilla Glue' as a sealer for wood. Obviously an off-label usage for it, but it works well. Apply it with a clean rag/cloth (a T-shirt works well, wrapped around a fingertip) in 3 or 4 VERY THIN coats. It cures in a reaction with moisture in the air. When cured, it's a hard and surprisingly scratch-resistant finish and impermeable to moisture. I finished 3 of my Opinels with it, after reshaping the handles and sanding to a high-grit finish (600-800 or so).
9C16sUd.jpg
Beautiful handle finishing there! The shaping of the handles you did as well are nice, too.
Click to expand...
 
You can thin epoxy glue with acetone and paint it on as a durable, shiny finish. Also works to be able to pour epoxy and use it as a filler. Increases drying and setting time, of course.
 
TheApogeeEvent said:
I would think that lightly using a lighter or blowtorch can remove air bubbles during the curing process just like when people use resin finishes.
Click to expand...
The bubbles really aren't that worrisome and are pretty easy to deal with. Most of controlling it comes down to applying the finish in as light & thin a coat as possible, especially for the very last coat. The presence of the bubbles actually turns out to be a good indicator & reminder to go even lighter with each coat. When curing or after, the few little bubbles that are there can lightly be scraped or burnished away with a thumbnail or something similar.
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
The bubbles really aren't that worrisome and are pretty easy to deal with. Most of controlling it comes down to applying the finish in as light & thin a coat as possible, especially for the very last coat. The presence of the bubbles actually turns out to be a good indicator & reminder to go even lighter with each coat. When curing or after, the few little bubbles that are there can lightly be scraped or burnished away with a thumbnail or something similar.
Click to expand...
So, I just need to use regular Gorilla Glue? Not any other specific type they make?
 
Fixedwing said:
Wicked Wax is beeswax based and is fully food safe and all natural - use it on steel, leather, wood, plastics, or epoxy based materials for protection and non slippery shine.
Click to expand...
That sounds like some useful stuff. Especially for my needs. I'll look further into it. Thanks for the recommendation!
 
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