Hi Guys,
I started the "
Glue Wars" back 2005 - Man do I feel old!
Over the years I've thought a lot about the issue and concluded that the ability for the adhesive to maintain its integrity over time, conditions and materials is more important than strength. The strength of the holding power comes from mechanical bonds (screws, pins, etc.) anyway.
As J. Keeton ponders: "is Bob Smith slow better because it's a more flexible bond?" An adhesive with a little give is going to be better, simply because different materials expand/contract differently (moisture and temp). It's all about maintaining a waterproof seal and keeping the parts in place.
Also, milkbaby, is right on the mark: surface prep is key. Can I add flatness and squeeze under the heading of surface prep?Over squeezing will hose up the best epoxy on the planet. If there's a little warp in the tang or slabs, it's soooo easy to tell yourself during gluing, "Hey there's a gap. I'll just crank the clamps down a little and make it go away." Every failure I've had is because I did that.
Back the question at hand, you need the test of time to determine which of those epoxies is the best choice. You can accelerate time by using torture. I think a dishwasher is a great way to run the test. Glue your favorite materials together without a mechanical bond. Leave it in the dishwasher for a month. Freeze it in a block of ice a few times for good measure.
If all the adhesives stay intact, choose the one you like working with best.
PS I still prefer
Loctite Hysol. The dispenser is so convenient and the consistency is perfect for what we do. Not to mention dimensional stability and it's approved for aircraft construction.