ESEE 5 1095 anti-rust question

R

rnapoli

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Dec 15, 2015
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I just purchased an ESEE 5 1095 Survival knife. I've been reading about 1095 and it seems like this steel is very prone to rust. Some say it will rust within 24 hours if not treated well. I use a Tuf-Cloth that lubricates and protects with mineral oil on the blade (this is what is recommended by ESEE to take care of this blade).

Two questions:

One- If this is supposed to be used as a high end survival knife, why would ESEE choose a steel that could rust in the field in as little as 24 hours? Wouldn't it decrease its value as a survival knife?

Two- How often should I treat the blade with the Tuf-Cloth or Is there something else that I should be using instead?

I mainly use this knife in California for woodcraft, batoning, camping and backpacking.

Thanks
 
I have an Esee4 and also live in CA.

1. Price and reliability. 1095 is one of THE most common steels used for blades in history and is relatively inexpensive. A good heat treat on 1095 like what Esee does is more than adequate for most people.

2. I wipe mine dry on my pant leg after each use and see rust only when I didn't dry enough or there was water left in the sheath. Even then it's very light spots that come off with additional use or a rough towel.
(btw, my esee is stripped of the protective coating and I use no oil/tuftglide/etc, if you leave it on you'll have even less to worry about)

Especially since we live in a dry climate, we can get away with almost zero maintenence. Just wipe it dry before putting it away.
 
A little bit of surface rust is easily remedied.
It's not like your 5 going to crumble in your hands if you don't put it in a dehumidifier when not in use.
 
1095 is used in many "survival" knives because it is a tough steel that is super easy to sharpen/strop in the field. The coating on the Esee is really good and will help protect it from the elements. If you use the knife, you'll knock and rust off the blade. Light surface rust is really nothing to worry about. I have a few Esse and Becker products and after using them in the outdoors, I simply wipe them off and oil them up. You might notice some darkening of the blade, that's just a patina on the edge. If I see rust, 000 steel wool or a touch of Flitz on a q-tip will remedy the problem. You purchased a tank of a knife, enjoy!
 
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Welcome to the forums!
The best thing you can do is use the knife, clean residue off after use and make sure it's dry before storing. An occasional little bit of surface rust on the edge is easily fixed as others have said.

Esee knives are designed for use in tropical environments and are used in their jungle survival courses so I imagine they're satisfied with the way their coated 1095 performs.

Make no mistake, your knife edge will get marked and form a patina. Rust is bad but easily dealt with, patina is good (and inevitable ) so don't stress :)
 
The steel is used because it is very tough and it can be sharpened easily in the field. I love 1095 and have used it quite a bit. It will not rust that fast. The most important thing is that you put it away clean and dry. I only wipe my blades down with oil if I am putting them away for a while. When I am out in the field I just try to keep it clean. Light surface rust will wipe off with a rag and some oil or solvent. If that doesn't work a little toothpaste or buffing compound on a rag will work. If not that then some steel wool or something. Anyway, Esee knives aren't showpieces and some wear and tear and discoloration is normal. Unless the rust is allowed to pit you have little to worry about. I strip all the coating off mine and I don't have corrosion problems. I used two knives to break down an elk this year in the rain and snow and one of them was in 1095. It was wet, dirty and covered in blood and hair and gunk and it was perfectly fine. I live I. A dry climate here in Colorado though. If you don't neglect the knife it won't rust much.
 
also wanted to add that I used my Esee in the snow a bit ago without much issue.

The whole 3 days everything was wet.. 12-36 degree weather with strong sunshine so plenty of snowmelt and plenty of frost build up overnight.

The blade developed some surface rust when I left it out overnight but that went away with the next day's use. (no special attention required)
 
I own every Esee fixed blade made. Anyone who has knives that rust in 24 hours has a very poor environment for them. I have read this comment over and over gain but still do not understand. I have a 5 in my car, laying in a bag for months, no rust:rolleyes:
 
Just dry it off before you put it back in the sheath. No special treatment required. If storing it for a while, wipe it down with Tuff-Cloth or similar rust preventive (I use BreakFree).
 
First, the tuf cloth will probably be pretty decent.

Second, think about what you're asking. If you're in a survival situation, which would you care about more, a spotless knife or a knife that won't fail?

Third, if you're going to use the knife, then use it. Don't worry if it gets marked up, scratched up, or stained.

Fourth, it would take quite a while for rust to compromise the integrity of the blade.

Fifth, if rust forms, then get some sandpaper or some sand or some rock or another and grind the rust off.

Sixth, use the knife, do you want a collectable or a user? Esee knives aren't really collector's knives so use it.

Seventh, if you're going to use it for what it's designed for, then don't worry about things that don't matter. If things that matter to you are different than what the knife is designed for, then sell that knife and buy a different one.

Eighth, 1095 will rust. Not terribly fast, but it will. It's a non-stainless steel. Learn how to care for it.

Ninth, people have been using non-stainless steel for A LONG time, they seem to have survived just fine.

Tenth, if you don't know what's important and what's not, then how can you survive with a survival knife? Think about it.
 
WELCOME!

The ESEE 5 is a .25" thick slab of steel. It would take years (if not decades) of neglect before rust could damage such a blade. Look ugly? Sure. But it will still cut.

Just wipe it off and don't store it wet. And, if a little surface rust appears, just hit it with a Scotchbrite pad or even some fine sanpaper and it's gone.


More specifically ...

One - the ESEE5 is coated. The only rust you're likely to see is on the exposed edge and possibly the bolts.

Two - just wipe it off before putting it away after a day's usage.


Just use it and fret not. ;)
 
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n7titan said:
Calm down bodog. Try not to sound patronizing towards a new member please.
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Wow, you're right. It's his first day.

OP, my bad. ESEE makes a good knife suitable for a lot of uses. Your tuf cloth should be plenty for normal use. It's a work knife meant for that and probably won't stay pristine for too long. That's ok, you'll probably find the stains and scratches endearing once you've used it. These knives can withstand a lot, much more than a comparably thick stainless knife. Use it and enjoy it. Better yet, get some pictures of you out in the wild using it. Those stains will be like good scars and the pictures will back up your stories that go with those scars.

Non-stainless steel has been used for a long, long time. It's only gotten better as time has passed. The steel you're using is very well known to be good. Better yet, the heat treatment ESEE uses is known to be good for the work the knife is meant for. It's not the most expensive steel out there, but it's solid. It's hard to find a stainless steel that will perform as well in rough use and there arent a lot non-stainless steels that can do it either. That's the reason they use it.

As far as maintenance, if it's going into long term storage (think several weeks or more), use a good rust inhibitor. If you're able to pull it out once a week or so, then mineral oil should be good to keep the rust away. Don't store it in its sheath. Try your best to keep it dry. If a little surface rust forms, then sand it off. Sometimes a normal pencil eraser or some toothpaste will work if the rust is light and they won't scratch the finish.
 
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Over the years I've had stainless blades and 1095 carbon blades. ALL of my blades are 1095 carbon now. Even the ones in my kitchen. It's just that much better and very tough and durable and is easy to touch up to scary sharp.
 
Thanks for the comments. I plan on using the hell out of this knife as I do with all my knives, and was concerned with the rust operationally, not cosmetically. You guys did a great job of confirming what I had read online and suspect this will be a great knife.
 
Old Hickory carbon steel kitchen knives have served folks well for decades,used in the kitchen and constantly wet and covered with rust causing stuff. They are something like 1055 or 1075.

They seem to do ok.

Your knife will be fine.
 
I have been out in the woods a bunch lately getting ready for gun season to open and had my new Esee with me. I was kinda mad when I pulled it out the other day to see it had a bunch of rust on it. This was a good thread and helped me get back on track, and I need to be more careful when i am out in the field. I did sharpen it as well and started off with a 20 degree angle, but ended up going to 25 degrees. That seemed to work better for my set up. I could not get all the rust off of the logo on the knife still has rust on it. Tried the tooth paste and steel wool. Any other ideas??

btw, my 4 came with a metal sheath. I like it a lot, but would that be partly to blame for the rust????
 
Muds said:
I have been out in the woods a bunch lately getting ready for gun season to open and had my new Esee with me. I was kinda mad when I pulled it out the other day to see it had a bunch of rust on it. This was a good thread and helped me get back on track, and I need to be more careful when i am out in the field. I did sharpen it as well and started off with a 20 degree angle, but ended up going to 25 degrees. That seemed to work better for my set up. I could not get all the rust off of the logo on the knife still has rust on it. Tried the tooth paste and steel wool. Any other ideas??

btw, my 4 came with a metal sheath. I like it a lot, but would that be partly to blame for the rust????
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A metal sheath? Factory is injection molded plastic.
 
ESEE does have a very good warranty. I had a 4 in SS & a 6 in 1095. Loved em, just didn't use them & they needed a home that could use em more than I. Now I see the dark earth 6 for $107ish. Itch....oh the itch!

BTW, the best way to knock off rust like others have said...use it. Then use it again & again & again...& again.
 
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I have a 6. What I like with 1095 is that if the edge got in contact with a hard surface, it will most likely roll and not chip. It is a joy to repair/sharpen. As for rust prevention, just ensure that its wiped clean and dry and the storage area is dry too. I often wipe the cutting edge with some cooking oil. It does the job well.
 
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