ESEE Lite Machete (more signal, less noise)

[R.A.T.]

Since the other Lite Machete thread got so bastardized, I decided to start a new one to tell everyone a little more about this piece. It's 1075 Carbon Steel. Shon said they are running about 53-54 Rc. Black coated. Convex edge. 18" machete. Shon is working on the handles now. It's going to be offered two ways: without a sheath and with a simple Cordura sheath. Not sure what the Imacasa coating is but maybe Joe Flowers can speak up and let us know. That's all I know right now.

 

[onado2000]

:thumbup:

 

[lazerboy2000]

Very cool Jeff and thanks for the update. Look forward to hearing more about it and its release at SHOT!

 

[Kenix]

Probably a dumb question, but can someone explain the reasoning behind 1075 over 1095? Is 1095 too hard and not tough enough for machete purposes?

 

[Horn Dog]

In a machete you want ease of sharpening and toughness over edge retention. I mean, you're going to beat the heck out of a machete. So 1095 holds an edge very well, but it is more brittle than 1075. Since the impact forces are much increased in a longer blade, 1075 makes sense. I have seen 1095 Ontario 18" blade machetes snap in two. Most don't, but some do. A lower carbon steel like 1075 will have more "give" and bend before it breaks. A hardness of 53 to 55 Rc is better for this application.

 

[Agent Iron]

Jeff

Are you guys doing the sharpening, or is that an Imacasa thing? I hope you do, not that Imacasa does a bad job, but what I have seen from them have been a bit obtuse, and know you folks will do a superior job. Any price projections yet?

 

[bushmattster]

Looking forward to this. I've been wanting a Condor for some time now but I keep spending all my money on RAT stuff like RP knives, RC6 molle w/pouch etc, etc, etc!

O.K., and maybe 3 or 4 folders.

 

[killstew]

In a machete you want ease of sharpening and toughness over edge retention. I mean, you're going to beat the heck out of a machete. So 1095 holds an edge very well, but it is more brittle than 1075. Since the impact forces are much increased in a longer blade, 1075 makes sense. I have seen 1095 Ontario 18" blade machetes snap in two. Most don't, but some do. A lower carbon steel like 1075 will have more "give" and bend before it breaks. A hardness of 53 to 55 Rc is better for this application.

HD, thanks for this post I was wondering why they chose 1075 but that makes sense.

 

[STAGE 2]

Just out of curiosity, since there is going to be less edge retention, how does one go about sharpening 18" of convex edge?

 

[samhain73]

55RC 1075 will be simple to sharpen, just a few swipes of a stone, sandpaper, etc. and it will be like new.

 

[Murphyslaw]

Just out of curiosity, since there is going to be less edge retention, how does one go about sharpening 18" of convex edge?

Sandpaper and a BIG mousepad....a RAT Pad:barf:

My apologies, I stopped myself 3 times before posting this...

See what my wife has to live with!?

 

[TheGame]

Jeff

Are you guys doing the sharpening, or is that an Imacasa thing? I hope you do, not that Imacasa does a bad job, but what I have seen from them have been a bit obtuse, and know you folks will do a superior job. Any price projections yet?

It will come with the condor convex edge.

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

Not sure what the Imacasa coating is but maybe Joe Flowers can speak up and let us know.

Given that it's one of their carbon steel models I'd assume it's their new "Hybrid Polyepox" black powder coat. Joe told me at one point that the reason they're using the epoxy coat instead of their (mega awesome) UtraBlac2 coating is that it wouldn't bond well to non-stainless steel.

 

[MrCoffee]

Sounds pretty cool... longer then I thought it would be..... will have to get one to try out. Most of the Machete's I have now are shorter. The 18" is overall, correct? Like a 14" cutting edge?

Of course it is a Master Ninja Rodent product, so gotta get it!

 

[Horn Dog]

Just out of curiosity, since there is going to be less edge retention, how does one go about sharpening 18" of convex edge?

For touch ups in the field on my convex ground machetes, I like to use a diamond coated steel rod or ceramic rod. I don't worry about the convex grind. I just want it sharp. Later on, when I have the time I finish the edge on my belt sander. You can also use one of those paddles with leather glued on and some compound. KSF and others sell them. Just hold the machete still and strop the paddle away from the edge. That will maintain the convex edge.

 

[Tripton]

I cannot really imagine the need for a machete...around here.


Never had one before.

Cannot wait to check this thing out. Wonder how it works on multifloral rose...

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

Sounds pretty cool... longer then I thought it would be..... will have to get one to try out. Most of the Machete's I have now are shorter. The 18" is overall, correct? Like a 14" cutting edge?

Of course it is a Master Ninja Rodent product, so gotta get it!

Machetes are typically referred to by blade length, so unless I'm mistaken it's an 18" blade. 18" IS rather more on the short side for a machete, as most typical hard-use machetes are around 20"-22" and go as high as 28"!

For touch ups in the field on my convex ground machetes, I like to use a diamond coated steel rod or ceramic rod. I don't worry about the convex grind. I just want it sharp. Later on, when I have the time I finish the edge on my belt sander. You can also use one of those paddles with leather glued on and some compound. KSF and others sell them. Just hold the machete still and strop the paddle away from the edge. That will maintain the convex edge.

Exactly. Don't worry about the convex in the field. Freehand sharpening it is going to give you a slight convex anyway.

Another way of restoring the convex is to buy some of those sheets of abrasive foam (not foam sanding blocks, but the rectangular sheets that are about 1/4" thick) and staple a strip of it to a small piece of wood and use it the same way as the KSF strop. This is good for when the convex is in pretty rough shape and you don't have a belt sander (like me!)

 

[Horn Dog]

Machetes are rough use tools. I have a Condor Golok Machete that is the same steel and convex grind the new Lite machete will have. While splitting some wood for a recent oyster roast, I accidentally struck the concrete patio with the edge.

No big deal. I just used my pocket diamond sharpener and straigtened it out.
I used a 99 cent ceramic rod to smooth the final edge, applying very light pressure as I stropped the edge.

The new edge was then sharp enough to cut curls on my palmetto weiner roasting skewer.

So the edge was plenty sharp to continue using at the oyster roast.

Later, I used a 400 grit belt to restore the nice convex edge. You can use a strop for this, but it will take a little longer.

These are machetes. Don't worry about some "perfect" profile. You can even use a file to sharpen one. Who cares if your convex grind has a bevel edge on it? It will still chop just fine.

 

[Coyja]

Horn Dog, you are definitely a machete master... I just ordered a Tramontina. Thanks!

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

These are machetes. Don't worry about some "perfect" profile. You can even use a file to sharpen one. Who cares if your convex grind has a bevel edge on it? It will still chop just fine.

+1k on that! In fact, a file is a perfect tool for putting the initial edge on a new (non-Condor) machete. Also just your hand and some sandpaper can put one hell of a nice convex on a blade. Example below.