Estwing Sportsman’s Axe E24A Review

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Oct 18, 2008
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I decided to do a review on this hatchet because I know that Estwing axes have become rather popular, and they are widely available at hardware stores. I wanted to see how they stack up to some of the other axes I have been testing. Estwing makes two hatchets that look very similar. One is the model E24A, which I am reviewing here, and the other is the smaller E14A.

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Specification:
Manufacturer: Estwing Manufacturing Company
Axe Head Weight: Unknown (The whole hatchet weighs 1.6lb)
Axe Length: 13 inches
Axe Head Material: Unknown carbon steel
Handle Material: Steel with leather cover
Cost: $35.00

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Estwing axes are not cheap, but are what I would consider mid range in terms of price. They are good looking axes, but I have never been a huge fan. In the interest of providing a complete picture of the products that are on the market, I though I would give this one an honest try.

As with all of my other hatchet reviews, I will be comparing the Estwing Sportsman’s Axe to the Gransfors Bruks Wildlife Hatchet. The Wildlife Hatchet has been the measuring stick for all other hatchets for a number of years.

Here you can see the Estwing Sportsman’s Axe E24A next to the Gransfors Bruks Wildlife Hatchet.

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The handle on the Estwing hatchet is about 0.5 inches shorter than that of the Wildlife Hatchet, making it about 13 inches overall. There is no grain to speak of because the handle is metal, wrapped in leather washers. The hatchet is the only Estwing axe with such a leather grip; all others have a plastic covering. The head and the handle are one solid piece of metal, and seem to have been made as a single unit.

Estwing has done a lot of research in minimizing the shock transmitted through the handle, but even so, the metal handle transmits a lot more force to the hand, than a wooden one. On the flip side, the handle is much more durable. There is very little you can do to destroy one of these axes. The added strength unfortunately brings about added weight. It is hard to specify the weight of the head because it is a separate unit, but for the same amount of weight, one can get a heavier head if the handle was made out of wood.

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The head of the Estwing hatchet is very interesting. Because it has no eye, the shape is unlike any other axe. The cheeks of the axe are very thin when compared to the Wildlife Hatchet, forming a concave shape all the way to the poll. The bit, or cutting edge convex however, has been left very thick. The design is hard to explain. Thinning out the edge is technically possible, but because it is so thick, it is not a practical option. It will take weeks of continuous work to file down the convex of the edge.

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When it came to testing the hatchet, I spent some time getting it paper-cutting sharp. It wasn’t bad out of the box, but it did need some work. The performance was nothing to brag about. It was clearly out performed by the Wildlife Hatchet. The bit of the Estwing hatchet is so thick, that no matter how sharp you get it, it will still have a hard time penetrating into the wood. It is a shame that the designers had not provided a better edge, because considering how thin the rest of the head is, it might have made for a well performing axe. As it is however, the Wildlife Hatchet, as well as many others, leave it in the dust.

Needless to say, the thick edge makes carving an unpleasant task. The hatchet has a hard time biting into the wood, and at moderately shallow angles, glances off the wood.

The thin head also makes splitting an interesting task. Since the edge is thick, small wood splits easily as soon as the bit penetrates it. If the wood is thicker however, or more stubborn, you start to get problems. Once the bit is in the wood, the rest of the head is so thin that it adds very little to the splitting. The head then becomes very likely to get stuck.

The Estwing Sportsman’s Axe comes with an excellent leather sheath. It covers the whole head very securely, and has a belt attachment point. The one I got was very dry, but the quality is very high. It is a much more complex design than that of the Wildlife Hatchet.

Overall, I can not justify buying this tool. Considering the price, the performance falls way short. For five dollars more you can buy a Husqvarna Hatchet which will outperform it all day long. It is an interesting and sturdy design. If you plan on doing some work that would be very destructive to an axe, this may be the one for you, but as a general woodman’s tool, it leaves a lot to be desired.

As far as I know, the manufacturer produces additional bushcraft appropriate axes: The Sportsman's Axe E14A (11.5 inches in length), The Campers Axe E44A (16 inches in length), and The Campers Axe E45A (24 inches in length).

Ross
http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/
 
I had one of the 24a's for a time till it was stolen from my camp. Honestly my experience was quite different from yours. It seems you got one with a thicker edge. I reprofiled mine with a Norton blue puck (what the stone looks like), it took all of around 35 minutes. After that it cut very easily.

I now have one of their 16" camp axes. It has one of the sharpest edge profiles I have ever seen on an axe. Works very well and stout and durable as can be wished for. The Estwings are not as comfortable to choke up on and carve with as wood helved axes which is my only gripe with em. GREAT survival tools.
 
I had one of the 24a's for a time till it was stolen from my camp. Honestly my experience was quite different from yours. It seems you got one with a thicker edge. I reprofiled mine with a Norton blue puck (what the stone looks like), it took all of around 35 minutes. After that it cut very easily.

I now have one of their 16" camp axes. It has one of the sharpest edge profiles I have ever seen on an axe. Works very well and stout and durable as can be wished for. The Estwings are not as comfortable to choke up on and carve with as wood helved axes which is my only gripe with em. GREAT survival tools.

That's been my experience with Estwing axes. I'd recommend them all day long & have for a long time.
Although a review is nice, it's still one man's opinion, which I generally take with a grain of salt.
 
I also have an old model 14A which makes the best back pocket axe I've ever seen. Great for cutting kindling on hikes and such. Sure wouldn't wan't to build a cabin with it.
 
I'd be hard pressed to find any hatchet that would outperform my GB Wildlife Hatchet. Thanks for sharing!

JGON
 
I also have an old model 14A which makes the best back pocket axe I've ever seen. Great for cutting kindling on hikes and such. Sure wouldn't wan't to build a cabin with it.
I've been trying to get one of those 14A's for a while now.
Its easy to find the 24A but nobody seems to sell the 14A!
You wouldn't happen to have a 24A and a 14A for side by side photos and a weight comparison? I already have a 24A if the 14A is not that much smaller i might stop trying to find one.
 
Wish I could help. My 24A was stolen out of camp a lot of years ago. Picked up the 14A on ebay a few years ago.

If you run a web search you can find them available from a couple sources.

The 14A is a little smaller in all dimensions.
 
I've been trying to get one of those 14A's for a while now.
Its easy to find the 24A but nobody seems to sell the 14A!
You wouldn't happen to have a 24A and a 14A for side by side photos and a weight comparison? I already have a 24A if the 14A is not that much smaller i might stop trying to find one.

I can help with that, I just picked up a 14.

Side by side:


Overlayed one atop the other:


There doesn't seem like too much difference between them on paper, but in hand, the 24 is in a different league. I think the 14 would be a useful tool for a hunter, in camp and on the trail, but a heavy duty chopper it really isn't.

24 = 27 oz.
14 = 19 oz.
 
14A is definitely not a heavy duty chopper. But it is real handy as a back pocket axe. When it comes to heavier use I use the handle as a handle and drive it through the work with a baton. It works well fro splitting up kindling etc. Wouldn't want to build a cabin with it.
 
Thanks for the good review. I have been considering the Axes for awhile due to the one piece design, as heard other praise their reliability.

I am also very happy with my GB axe.
 
I have a couple of Wetterlings that are very good axes. I have also been in the market for one of the 14A models if I can find one. I had never considered how useful the steel haft would be on a small tomahawk thin axe, untill wildmike's batoning coment. That has me realy thinking of obtaining one for the collection!
 
I have one with the blue rubber/plastic handle and it is a POS.
Never liked it, stupid buy on my part.
Thanks for the reviews.
 
Hi Guy's,
I read the steel is 1055 and Rockwell of 55
Paul P.S. I have the set of Estwings(3 sizes)and I have G.B
small forest axe, but when I get my Estwings 14A sharp, I have no problem making feather sticks or even batoning with it, intact it's excellent for batoning
 
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Again,
The three sizes I mentioned were the 14", 17". and 26", the 14A and the 12A there is not that much difference 4-6 OZ's. But you can get the 12A at Home Depot through the internet only not at the store for around $44.00
 
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Adjusting a messy blade profile on any axe could take a long time with hand tools of any type. A 4" grinder can make short work of almost any re-profiling. Eastwings are a decent tool and readily available as well as durable. The reason for the heavy front taper is probably that most Eastwings are sold to people who will not use them much and cannot tell the difference. The heavier taper means less failures, less returns.
 
Actually you can re-profile an axe with files in a relatively short time. It's not as fast as a grinder but you don't risk overheating the bit, either. I have 5 bench grinders, two angle grinders and a belt sander and I still do most of my re-profiling work with a file. A file tells me things about the axe that a grinder doesn't reveal, e.g. overall hardness and spot hardness or softness. Also, high and low spots in the profile are more quickly identified by filing.

I still start with grinders on a really fat profile. But I'll switch to files for the final figure.
 
Actually you can re-profile an axe with files in a relatively short time. It's not as fast as a grinder but you don't risk overheating the bit, either. I have 5 bench grinders, two angle grinders and a belt sander and I still do most of my re-profiling work with a file. A file tells me things about the axe that a grinder doesn't reveal, e.g. overall hardness and spot hardness or softness. Also, high and low spots in the profile are more quickly identified by filing.

I still start with grinders on a really fat profile. But I'll switch to files for the final figure.

I agree 100%. If you are using a worn out or cheap crap file, it will certainly wear on you, though. Get a couple good files and a file card and you can really get down to business.
 
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