Etch-o-matic vs personalizer plus

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Feb 18, 2016
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So recently saw the etch o matic. It's about a 3rd the price of the personalizer plus. Is it that inferior of a product? I know it cant do AC and DC which sucks. Anyway what's everyone thoughts?
 
In general you want both ac and dc in a etcher.
The dc etches the design, while the AC blackens the design.

I can’t speak to the quality of either, as I made my own, and haven’t even tried that one yet...
 
Yeah I have a handmade one that crapped out. Said screw it and ordered the etch o matic so I can atleast mark my blades
 
I haven't used an Etch-o-matic, but have used a Personalizer and the Personalizer plus. The PP is a very good unit. If you want deep and sharp marks, I recommend it.

It should go without saying that you need good stencils to get good marks.
 
I've heard nothing but great things about the PP. Just out of my price range. I've benn using stencils from IMG which i've heard is the best
 
Doesn't really matter what brand etcher (homemade, train transformer, Personalizer, etc) you use as long as it's in the 18 to 20 volt range with current of 1 amp or more, switchable between both AC and DC voltage. The stencil will never know the difference.
 
I agree with Ken. The basic parameters are simple.
If you have the skills, a center tapped 1 amp 24VAC transformer, a bridge rectifier, a variable resistor , some capacitors and other components, plus a box, switches, banana plugs and sockets, leads, carbon etching block and pads, etc., will make a good etcher.
However, if you aren't good with the electronics, it is better to buy a plug and play unit. As long as it meets the parameters, it will work. The stencil is the real thing where quality matters.
 
I carbon etching block and pads,

@Stacy , about carbon etching block ...can you elaborate little more about that ? What kind of carbon is that ? Can I use pure graphite or something like this from starter ?
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BW , I finished mine etch/mark devices ...and they work like Champ :) I need real stencil and real electrolyte now.... For marking I used transformer from my old service friend ...... microfilm reader .It was gift from Honda many , many moon ago :D
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This is on carbon steel with AC and salt water as electrolyte .
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This is with 12V DC .......hand-written by me :)It s not my fault that I have not real stencil.... :p
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This is probe on stainless steel with AC
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The Personalizer Plus is a great machine...there are cheaper ones, but the PP works great. Yes, you can build one for less money, but by the time you research and purchase the components and build it, the savings may not be worth it, unless your time has no value.
 
@Stacy , about carbon etching block ...can you elaborate little more about that ? What kind of carbon is that ? Can I use pure graphite or something like this from starter ?

Any block of carbon or graphite that can attach to the wire will work. That carbon/graphite brush should do fine. You wrap a piece of white felt over the end and secure it with a rubber band.
 
I think the most important thing has been overlooked, Electrolyte. You can have the best stencil, etcher exc and with crappy fluid you won’t be happy. For a long time I resisted buying proper fluid. I had enough of fighting etches and call the pros. She talked to me for quite awhile and put togather a system for me. And I was absolutely blown away at the difference. I don’t DC etch anymore, I only use ac. With the proper fluid AC is great. I will have to look at which fluid I settled on but I will never go back to DC. Allways amazes me that people will spend tens of hours making a knife and risk messing it up in 1min with cobbled togather etching stuff. Give them a call, you won’t be sorry!

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If you etch only with AC it will come off with a little sand paper.

I like my etch to be deep and can not be rubbed off.
 
If you etch only with AC it will come off with a little sand paper.

I like my etch to be deep and can not be rubbed off.

No it won’t. Let me dig up some proof. With the right fluid it etches deep.
 
I made my own from very cheap components found on ebay and amazon. Basically, I have a doorbell transformer that lowers the voltage of the input 120v AC to the 16v range behind a on off switch taken from a computer PSU. After the transformer, I have two outputs--one is ac and is wired to a three position switch and the other is routed through a $2-$3 DC converter and then to the same switch. So it goes input power > switch > transformer >AC output / DC converter > three position switch. I added in some LEDs in order to know if it is currently pushing current. I built a small wooden box for it and cut an aluminum face plate to mount the switches and LEDs.

All in all, it cost me about $40 worth of components and a bit of fiddling around. I am definitely NOT an electrical engineer, so it shouldn't be too difficult if you have that DIY attitude and are not scared of an arc or blowing a breaker haha. If that stuff scares you or you dont have good medical insurance, buying one is not a bad idea.
 
No it won’t. Let me dig up some proof. With the right fluid it etches deep.

How does AC etch deep when it just puts a dark oxide mark on the top layer and does not damage the steel with corrosion?

DC etches actually removes steel leaving a more "engraved" look
 
How does AC etch deep when it just puts a dark oxide mark on the top layer and does not damage the steel with corrosion?

DC etches actually removes steel leaving a more "engraved" look
Yes , AC etch deep if you hold pad longer ...I try that with salt water as electrolyte because that is all I have for now .
 
While you can achieve some sub-surface etching in AC, in my experience, it's pretty minor compared to just using DC for the etching. Not to mention, if the mark somehow gets rubbed out, that minor etch from AC alone really looks like crap IMO. I use DC for the etch and AC to mark the etch for best results.
 
How deep is deep with AC etch?

I have only used Electro Chem Etch from Metal Markings and only get a superficial marking
 
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