Etching Designs into Steel

F

From Tennessee

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Dec 2, 2011
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Reading David Boye's book Knifemaking You can do it I finally got to the chapter about etching. Is anyone here an "Etcher"? I see reference to etching Damascus but I think that's different as Im thinking there is no masking or use of "grounds" or "resist". In the book there are quite a few pictures of some really elaborate and quite beautiful etchings. Can stencils be used though the artist who did the knives in the book appears to be doing it freehand. Two names mentioned were Jessie Oster and Joyce Sierra. I suppose I'll get some materials and see what comes of it.
 
You might want to post this in the tinkering and embellishment section. I would like to know about this too.
 
I tinkered with the thought of actual etching using Boye's technique. I got the asphaltum and the beeswax and made the resist, coated a blade with it and attempted to scratch a design into the resist. It is definitely not as easy as it was made to sound in the book. Mostly, the resist was too cold, and either didn't take the scratching or chipped off. I then tried to do it warmer, and it flowed into the etched channels. There seemed to be no right temperature. Eventually I gave up and threw away the asphaltum and beeswax, as well as the blade blank I'd coated.
 
If I can find the Tinker/Embellishment section I will move it. Sounds like the right place for it. It did sound like the margin for error was small, temp wise and all the elements involved. I got the impression it requires finding that sweet spot to make it all come togeather. Did it attack the steel so much it couldn't be polished out readily? I thought maybe it more or less stained the surface.

I found out a little more about it at this link http://books.google.com/books?id=Vf...wQ6AEwCA#v=onepage&q=asphaltum powder&f=false
Its excepts from another book.
 
There used to be a great thread in the ESEE subforum, a guy step-by-stepped his stripping and etching of a Junglas that came out awesome. Maybe try searching that, he had an easy yet great looking technique but I don't remember what it was.
 
There is some discussion on etching steel over on the axe sub-furm, see the mod'ing CS trail hawk thread, FWIW. I've etched a few cold steel hawks but am not sure that the techniques apply to what you want to do? Here is the sort of stuff I do

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I have wondered about this as well. I was thinking why not use the same idea as a knife makers mark, electro-etching? I am guessing that "back in the day" older makers would just tool the steel and make the designs, sort of like carving wood but more pounding involved.
 
Pullrich, those are some really nice etchings on the tomahawks there. Nicely done. I'd be super stoked to have one.
 
Thanks Talesin.

Tennessee if you don't find the etching posts within that thread let me know and I'll track it down or just re-post the steps here.
 
You can try looking up fine art intaglio on steel plates. Most of it is done on copper, but steel is still used a bit.

Wayne Suhrbier
 
From Tennessee said:
Reading David Boye's book Knifemaking You can do it I finally got to the chapter about etching. Is anyone here an "Etcher"? I see reference to etching Damascus but I think that's different as Im thinking there is no masking or use of "grounds" or "resist". In the book there are quite a few pictures of some really elaborate and quite beautiful etchings. Can stencils be used though the artist who did the knives in the book appears to be doing it freehand. Two names mentioned were Jessie Oster and Joyce Sierra. I suppose I'll get some materials and see what comes of it.
Click to expand...

I read the book also and tried many different techniques. I seem to recall posting my technique earlier on this forum somewhere....If I can find it I will direct you. The one technique that worked best for me was electro etching (reverse of electro plating). I painted with asphaltum, etched in my design, submerged the blade in my tank, and hooked up the leads to my 12 volt battery charger for about 20 seconds (you'll need to experiment with the duration and the tank solution). For solution I used a vinegar/salt solution....as much salt as I could dissolve in the vinegar. For an electrical lead into the solution I use a piece of copper pipe for one lead and the blade for the other lead......I would suggest you experiment with scrap steel before you use an actual blade in order to get the right mix of variables worked out (solution, time with the current,amperage etc.)
 
drlozier said:
I read the book also and tried many different techniques. I seem to recall posting my technique earlier on this forum somewhere....If I can find it I will direct you. The one technique that worked best for me was electro etching (reverse of electro plating). I painted with asphaltum, etched in my design, submerged the blade in my tank, and hooked up the leads to my 12 volt battery charger for about 20 seconds (you'll need to experiment with the duration and the tank solution). For solution I used a vinegar/salt solution....as much salt as I could dissolve in the vinegar. For an electrical lead into the solution I use a piece of copper pipe for one lead and the blade for the other lead......I would suggest you experiment with scrap steel before you use an actual blade in order to get the right mix of variables worked out (solution, time with the current,amperage etc.)
Click to expand...

When mixing the asphaltum what is the texture of it? Is it gritty or creamy or like a peanut butter? When it dries is it like a firm wax or????
 
pullrich said:
TN, here's a couple links to info on etching with ferric chloride if you want to try that route.
Mike Forti has done a lot of knife etching and is a helpful guy:
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I use ferric chloride, it takes longer but is less toxic. Spray lacquer or enamel paint makes a good resist... remove with acetone and a rag and a bit of rubbing. Depending on the strength of your FC, temperature, and the type of steel (doesn't work well on stainless), it can take 1-2 hours to get a good deep bite.
 
GHEzell said:
I use ferric chloride, it takes longer but is less toxic. Spray lacquer or enamel paint makes a good resist... remove with acetone and a rag and a bit of rubbing. Depending on the strength of your FC, temperature, and the type of steel (doesn't work well on stainless), it can take 1-2 hours to get a good deep bite.
Click to expand...

Thanks if paint makes a good resist that sure would sure be worth trying. Thanks
 
The asphaltum I used to use in intaglio printmaking was in the form of a stick or "chunk". You would heat up your plate (not super hot, just very warm) and rub the stick onto the plate. Then you'd use a brayer (a roller) to spread it around the plate. Once it was rolled out and the plate cooled off, it would be fairly hard and maybe just a touch tacky. Using a variety of metal tools you just draw on the plate, which lifted up the asphaltum wherever you drew.

I imagine you can get different kinds of asphaltum, but that was my experience. I'd like to try it on a knife someday.
 
I've done a few blades coated with clear urethane and dipped in TSP with a 3V etch of the whole blade. TSP doesn't instantly rust the blade as bad as salt does. The urethane had small, really small, dots all over it that etched through. Since then, I'd recommend 2-3 coats of urethane first.
 

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I just use a 9 volt battery (the blocky ones?) some wires, a q tip, salt water, and nail polish. Coat the blade in nail polish, wait around a minute, and scratch a design into the polish. Using a darker polish helps here. Then, take the 9 volt battery, attach the wires to it(I used alligator clips), and then connect the positive side to the blade (making sure to touch the metal on it), and the negative to the q tip. Dip the q tip in salt water, and then hold it over the scratches you made.
 
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