Everyone know Chinese grade 7Cr17MoV 8Cr14MoV 9Cr18MoV???

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Apr 7, 2013
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Uhh, everyone know chinese grade 7Cr17MoV, I see that Taylor knivess use it, equls to 440A? 9Cr18MoV equals to 440C
by looking through wikipedia, i find that china facory, Ahonest changjiang Stainless steel co., Ltd. manufactures these grades.
after chating with them, they also told me that 9Cr18MoV 440C is good which is used by chinese army.

Did anyone use these grades 7Cr17MoV 8Cr14MoV or 9Cr18MoV before?
how about their property?
 
I have 8cr13mov on a couple of knives and I like it. It doesn't hold an edge forever but it is very easy to sharpen and it takes a nice edge.

The biggest thing is to make sure you buy from a reputable company, there is a reason Chinese knives have such a poor reputation.
 
If you have a smart phone, there is a knife steel app that has more info than you've ever wanted to know about knife steels.
 
When i can get my hands on it i use 8cr as much as possible, it works really well excellent edge retention only down side is some minor rusting if you dont take care of it
 
If this is your first foray into knives beyond $5 gas station knives, then I think you will be pleasantly surprised by how long the edge will last on 8Cr13MoV. While it isn't all that wear resistant, or stainless for that matter, the ease with which it can be sharpened back to a good edge should not be underestimated.

On the other hand, if you are used to S30V and the like, then I would think that 8Cr13MoV will be a step backwards for you.
 
I use a 9Cr18Mo Spyderco Mule Team in the kitchen and another in my woodshop. It is a very good steel for the price, holds an edge better than my other kitchen knives, and the shop version is very solid in a range of uses.
 
flarp, I don't know anything about 7Cr, but with 8 and 9Cr, I have read/heard the same thing.
 
Just keep in mind that steel composition is only one part of the equation. The other part is the heat treat. Good steel with bad heat treat makes a bad knife blade. 440C at 58-60Rc from Benchmade made in the USA is a quality blade. 440C at ?? from S&W made in China by Taylor cutlery is not.
 
If this is your first foray into knives beyond $5 gas station knives, then I think you will be pleasantly surprised by how long the edge will last on 8Cr13MoV. While it isn't all that wear resistant, or stainless for that matter, the ease with which it can be sharpened back to a good edge should not be underestimated.

On the other hand, if you are used to S30V and the like, then I would think that 8Cr13MoV will be a step backwards for you.

Just keep in mind that steel composition is only one part of the equation. The other part is the heat treat. Good steel with bad heat treat makes a bad knife blade. 440C at 58-60Rc from Benchmade made in the USA is a quality blade. 440C at ?? from S&W made in China by Taylor cutlery is not.

I am just quoting Cynic and Planterz, because my findings and experience are similar. Being quite honest, because of it's country of origin, I really wanted to dislike 8Cr13MoV. However, once I started actually using it, I discovered that it will take an absolutely wicked edge and keep it long enough for this old sod. Long story short, it is a good steel that didn't disappoint.
 
Just keep in mind that steel composition is only one part of the equation. The other part is the heat treat. Good steel with bad heat treat makes a bad knife blade. 440C at 58-60Rc from Benchmade made in the USA is a quality blade. 440C at ?? from S&W made in China by Taylor cutlery is not.

Of course Jerry Fisk (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jerry_Fisk) heat treats the 440 knives he makes for his own use at 52-54Rc - but what does he know? Everyone knows that with knife steels more Rc = betterer! Because, well, that's how numbers work!

...A lot of people think that Rc is directly related to edge retention. In fact, the relationship is indirect at best - edge retention in most circumstances is about resisting abrasion from motion parallel to the blade whereas Rc is calculated by measuring tolerance for force perpendicular to the blade. If you push the Rc of a steel to its limit you'll probably kill edge retention... A good HT is not about getting the maximum Rc! Unfortunately whatHT's are about is quite complex and requires some understanding of metallurgy - you'd have to think hard for at least 30 minutes or even an hour to understand, so people prefer to talk about Rc, even though it isn't very useful for the purpose they are using it for.

What Rc *does* get you is the ability to grind a knife with a thinner geometry for a given material (assuming that all you doing is cutting - because when prying is involved then that will probably impose different limits.) But few people use aggressively optimized cutters anyway, especially in larger knives.
 
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Necro bump but worthy . I just wanted to put my .02 on this chinese steel. I absolutely love the 9cr18mov. I think its an excellent EDC steel that holds and edge fairly well .

I used my schrade SCHF16 to pry open a door as well as cut excess gap filler while making contact multiple times with the aluminum frame so much so I chipped the blade and just ran it through the lansky I think pocket pal I got with my TOPS Survtac7 and right back to hair shaving sharp after like 2 passes.


I also love 8cr13mov too . Although I will say edge retention on that blade in virtually non existent but 8cr13mov blades I carry are for self defense primarily. or EDC utility but I tend to lean towards the 9cr180mov for that .

BUT do to the near butter soft properties of 8cr13mov I can get a blade soooooo incredibly sharp I swear I could split a hair in two . Which is primarily why I carry it for self defense cause it makes a top tier single service philosophy of use . Use it once or twice and it needs a touchup . But hoping I never need it for why I carry it and Ive never used it for that purpose it makes the single use property null and moot in consideration when I bought it .

I had a kershaw asset that was like 17 bucks in 8cr13mov and I absolutely loved it .

But for utility purposes I dont think you're going to get a better bang for your buck than a 9cr18mov.

My favorite steel is D2 I love that stuff . But you need to find a forger which can heat treat it properly to get the perfect D2 blade which imho isn't easy . Anyone can forge D2 not many get it right . And it's not a cheap steel either. I will say the only D2 knife I have stays hair shaving sharp and I NEED to sharpen it maybe once a year just for a touchup .
 
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