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Fallkniven 3G Steel for Survival?
- Thread starter Merost
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The F1 pro is an experiment.
I want to make something like this.
You should check out "thetopicala" on youtube. He has done several nice builds on fallkniven blades, amongst others.
You should check out "thetopicala" on youtube. He has done several nice builds on fallkniven blades, amongst others.
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That's Jawsdropping!
I don't do much rehandlings nowadays, but I do have the F1 Pro and a nice block of Bubinga.
So maybe it could happen in the future.
Regards
Mikael
Just got my Wm1 in 3g the other day haven't done anything with it just yet but boy is it sharp. I started to whittle some arm hair and it just wanted to dig in. It's a little razor for sure and nice and light. I may have a custom kydex sheath made for it to be just to make it a little more compact in overall size.
I regret a lot NOT buying some Falkniven blanks when they were available (full tang)... those handles look great, although so much polish may turn into slippery if your hands get wet or oily. I think the kraton handles work just great (but I don't have big paws).
Mikel
Mikel
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I use 100 grit sandpaper and the contours to alleviate slippage. I personally hate the shape of the Fallkniven kraton handles because I think they are too thin and squared which gives me poor ergonomics. (Except the Fallkniven H1 which is an oddball in the Fallkniven lineup.)
Your right as I feel the same way about the squareish handles. It looks like you know how to fix that problem though, nice work. I do kind of like the exposed handle butt steel sticking out the end of the handle though. I'm not sure how you could pull that off with a linen micarta rehandle job.
I use 100 grit sandpaper and the contours to alleviate slippage. I personally hate the shape of the Fallkniven kraton handles because I think they are too thin and squared which gives me poor ergonomics. (Except the Fallkniven H1 which is an oddball in the Fallkniven lineup.)
Easy. It only requires to shape and polish the front AND back end of the handle slabs. Is you are starting from a rubber handle piece and want to keep the tang hidden on the sides, you can route/mill a channel (half thickness in each slab). Enough epoxy and a couple pins.... And you are good to go!
I did something like that for a diving knife and it came out great.
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Why do you want a protruding metal tang?
I made the pommel a large bell to make it easy to pull out of a pouch sheath and give somewhere to strike with the palm to drive the tip in. You could probably strike with it as well, but it will just get marred like the rubber handle Fallknivens do.
Fallkniven is on the record stating that the only purpose of the exposed tang pommel is to drive the tip in. They make poor hammers.
I guess I just prefer the exposed tang as I've got other knives with out this option. I've looked at the one knives ships free has with the custom handles on the f1's and I like a few of them. I do kind of like the grippyness of the rubber handles though.
Maybe one day I'll get an Idun as I now have a Tor a Mb, an F1 and WM1, I like the leather handle on the Tor quite a bit too. I still have my eye on a few more also, at this point I'm probably collecting more than using. I'll just hand them down to my son and grandsons one day anyway. Just Have'n fun I recon. Have a great day.
Maybe one day I'll get an Idun as I now have a Tor a Mb, an F1 and WM1, I like the leather handle on the Tor quite a bit too. I still have my eye on a few more also, at this point I'm probably collecting more than using. I'll just hand them down to my son and grandsons one day anyway. Just Have'n fun I recon. Have a great day.
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The Idun is thicker than the F1 and has an aluminum pommel. I would recommend taking a needle file and carefully rounding the little ridge made by the sanding belts on the inside of the guard. It takes a while to do because it needs to blend into the leather handle. The Idun is one of the best knives in the Fallkniven lineup, as long as the blade thickness is not a problem for you.