Back for more, jumpin' in the juicy stuff.
Blade- The blade is 6.3 inches long and is about .24 inches thick. Definitely a great size for a muti-purpose outdoor blade.
The design is a drop point with a swedge that serves to increase piercing performance at the tip while maintaining thickness for durability. It doesn't seem to chew up batons as bad as I thought. The swedge still has some girth to it and is not designed to be sharpened.
The blade height swells at the belly and tapers to the handle. I'm a big fan of this as it gives similar chopping power of a recurved blade without the difficult sharpening. (Like my schf26) The edge also very subtly has a continuous belly to the choil which makes the blade an excellent slicer and aids in carving feather sticks.
The spine is sharp enough for making fuzz sticks and shooting sparks off a ferro rod, yet at the swedge, I noticed it was not as sharp.
The convex grind is excellent, it really slides through the wood for carving yet has the durability for other tasks. It really backs up edge allowing for excellent edge retention everyday hard use.
Blade steel- VG-10 is my favorite steel right now, so I'm biased in that regard. I'm not claiming it to be the best,
it just fits my uses better then others (s30v,s110v,O1,D2, 1060, 1095, 420hc,8cr13mov,14c27n sandvik), why?
Being able to sharpen my own knives definitely changes my selection. I find myself enjoying knives that take a very keen edge quickly without much effort and the ability to strop back an edge in a pinch for field use.
I'm not preaching that vg10 is god here, all steels have drawbacks and VG 10 like most stainless steel can be brittle and chip prone. Especially when ground to a thin edge and put to hard use.
The A1 doesn't have that problem and seems to mitigate the chipping with the right triple combo of blade thickness, grind and heat treatment all working together to really bring out the qualities of the steel. Truly remarkable.
Will it chip if used to baton or chop on the dirt?
Of course. Doesn't that mean it's a poor steel choice for a survival blade?
I argue no.
Any edge, sharpened to a razor fine hair "popping" degree, no matter what steel is susceptible to chipping.
Sharp edges (regardless of steel )are a trade off.
As strange as it sounds, some prefer and are better off with dull knives that seem invincible.
However, one with knowledge and proficiency can enjoy the performance of a stainless that sharpens like carbon steel, or any fine edge.
One without however, won't know the difference other then the stainless knife chips.
Please understand I'm not hating on carbon steel. We all know carbon cuts,
I just prefer a knife that can cut and be low maintenance due to living in a temperate rainforest climate.
Moving on,the knifes claim to fame is its laminated construction which is for the performance of VG 10 safely tucked between two slabs of 420j stainless, this allow for the perfect blend of toughness, strength and ductility that homogeneous steel can have a difficult balance with. It's not unbreakable, but less likely to just snap in half. Which is piece of mind with hard use.
I'll cover the sheath later.
-Shawn