- Joined
- Aug 4, 2010
- Messages
- 1,638
I've had the F1 for a while now and it's become one of my favorite outdoor use blades. I never really considered getting the S1 until looking through JV3's threads piqued my interest and I had to try it out for myself. I recently took the S1 as my only fixed blade on a 4 day backpacking trip in the Northern Michigan. So now that I've had a chance to put the S1 through some use, I thought I'd share my thoughts on the two blades.
Even thought the S1 isn't a full height convex like the F1, they have a very similar geometry and thickness at the edge (at least what I can feel with my unscientific hand). Just visually, I really expected that the F1 would be a little better cutter. However, in use I haven't found a noticeable difference in cutting performance in whether it be wood carving, food, paracord, or paper-slicing. The convex grind of both blades really bites into the wood extremely well when carving and I'd also say the two are equally good and making fuzz sticks and shavings.
The S1 is a little more than an inch longer than the F1 so the feel is a bit different in hand. The F1 is very evenly balanced and offers more control than the S1 for fine cutting tasks. The S1 is a little more blade forward than the F1, but isn't so long or blade-heavy that it can't perform fine work.
The S1 is about 0.5mm thicker, but practically speaking they are about the same thickness. The S1 is definitely more capable for splitting simply because of the blade length and I think the saber-like grind helps as well. However, I wouldn't aim to split big logs with either knife and would bring a different tool if I thought I had the need.
The handles have the same general size and shape, but the S1 is a little thicker in the palm swell. JV3 mentioned in his review of the S1 that the lanyard hole is closer to the end of the tang and does not interfere with your grip. You can see it here in the picture too. I've never been bothered too much by that feature of the F1 even though my grip does overlap the lanyard hole.
Overall, the F1 and S1 have become two of my favorite blades. I love the convex grinds and I've been really impressed with the VG10 steel so far in edge holding and ease of sharpening. The handles might not be the most comfortable ever, but I wouldn't consider them a negative either. The Fallkniven handles work very well when wearing gloves which I'm sure is intentional from their design.
It'd be hard to choose if I could only keep one. The S1 can basically do almost everything the F1 can, but is a little more capable because of it's size. I don't think one or the other is better, just different.
For a day hike or lightweight summer trip I would likely choose the F1. If I thought I'd need to split larger sized wood I could grab the S1 and an SAK. However, I could just as easily take the F1 and hatchet/ axe/ chopper and be even more versatile (I normally have some kind of saw anyway).
Below you can see a quick size comparison with some other blades... Fallkniven F1, Blind Horse Knives Bushcrafter, ESEE Laser Strike, Fallkniven S1, and ESEE 6.
Even thought the S1 isn't a full height convex like the F1, they have a very similar geometry and thickness at the edge (at least what I can feel with my unscientific hand). Just visually, I really expected that the F1 would be a little better cutter. However, in use I haven't found a noticeable difference in cutting performance in whether it be wood carving, food, paracord, or paper-slicing. The convex grind of both blades really bites into the wood extremely well when carving and I'd also say the two are equally good and making fuzz sticks and shavings.
The S1 is a little more than an inch longer than the F1 so the feel is a bit different in hand. The F1 is very evenly balanced and offers more control than the S1 for fine cutting tasks. The S1 is a little more blade forward than the F1, but isn't so long or blade-heavy that it can't perform fine work.
The S1 is about 0.5mm thicker, but practically speaking they are about the same thickness. The S1 is definitely more capable for splitting simply because of the blade length and I think the saber-like grind helps as well. However, I wouldn't aim to split big logs with either knife and would bring a different tool if I thought I had the need.
The handles have the same general size and shape, but the S1 is a little thicker in the palm swell. JV3 mentioned in his review of the S1 that the lanyard hole is closer to the end of the tang and does not interfere with your grip. You can see it here in the picture too. I've never been bothered too much by that feature of the F1 even though my grip does overlap the lanyard hole.
Overall, the F1 and S1 have become two of my favorite blades. I love the convex grinds and I've been really impressed with the VG10 steel so far in edge holding and ease of sharpening. The handles might not be the most comfortable ever, but I wouldn't consider them a negative either. The Fallkniven handles work very well when wearing gloves which I'm sure is intentional from their design.
It'd be hard to choose if I could only keep one. The S1 can basically do almost everything the F1 can, but is a little more capable because of it's size. I don't think one or the other is better, just different.
For a day hike or lightweight summer trip I would likely choose the F1. If I thought I'd need to split larger sized wood I could grab the S1 and an SAK. However, I could just as easily take the F1 and hatchet/ axe/ chopper and be even more versatile (I normally have some kind of saw anyway).
Below you can see a quick size comparison with some other blades... Fallkniven F1, Blind Horse Knives Bushcrafter, ESEE Laser Strike, Fallkniven S1, and ESEE 6.
I actually love the grips on these as they cover the full tang. No cold metal against the skin and excellent when using gloves!
