fallkniven F1

S

saltgrassbear

Joined
Sep 25, 2005
Messages
28
Are all the f1's the same? Are some a better choice than others for a kit/survival knife? I've seen a video of the bushcraft person striking a sweedish firesteel with one. I thought you needed carbon steel for this.

SGB
 
There are several generations of Fallkniven. Solid VG-10 (older) and laminated VG-10. (supposedly stronger). Both are great knives.

You don't need carbon to strike a firesteel. All it takes is a hard and "sharp" spine (not rounded like a Sebenza for ex.). The harder and sharper the spine, the easier it is to throw sparks. The F1 does a great job. From what I've heard, you can even throw sparks of a firesteel with glass.

Ted
 
saltgrassbear said:
Are all the f1's the same? Are some a better choice than others for a kit/survival knife? I've seen a video of the bushcraft person striking a sweedish firesteel with one. I thought you needed carbon steel for this.

SGB
Click to expand...

Nope, they're not all the same. Currently there are three models, the basic satin finish one, the coated one and the micarta-handled one. In earlier years they produced F1s with ATS-34 blades, and some of those are still spinning around eBay and the like. Then there's a limited run of 3G F1s, too. Out of all these, I'd go with the F1BL, the currently in production F1 with black coating on a laminated VG-10 blade. The coating will wear quickly, and it'll look uglier than a dog's rear, but it helps protect the blade from corrosion, and that's never bad in a survival knife. The Swedish Air Force uses them, and exactly with the black coating.
 
There are basically five different types of Fallkniven F1.
The first model was ATS34, a bit pointier and didnt have a protruding tang.
The second model was flatgrind VG10 but looks like the current ones.
The third was VG10 but had convex grind.
The fourth is the current, laminated VG10 and convex grind.
The fifth is 3G steel (collectors item)
You can watch the differences on http://hem.passagen.se/nodh :)
The difference in performance is usually beyond your needs anyway, but the Lam VG10 is the strongest one after the 3G.
Get a regular lam VG10 and if you dont like the convex grind you can get someone to regrind it for you.
The backside of a F1 is almost as sharp as a ice skate. The use of firesteel is not dependent on the material in the knife. It is only if you want to hack sparks out of the knife as in Ray Mears book.
I and many with me have used the back of the F1 to light many fires and since the steel is so hard it keeps both the knife edge and the back edges sharp for long time. The convex F1 is a bit fiddly to sharpen, but the tools are just a 800 grit paper and a mousepad or your own thigh :)

If you have any questions, dont hesitate to mail me. You can also visit the Fallkniven forum at http://www.knifeforums.com/forums/showforum.php?fid/65/
where lots of Fallkniven owners will help you enjoy your great knife.
The F1 is the best for survival because it is big enough to do the job but still small enough to be carried everywhere.
There are 34 other Fallknivens in the range, and you can not have just one :)

The Swedish armed forces actually have most of the Fallkniven knives in inventory, the issued pilot survival knife is a satin blade F1 with a special plastic sheath (looks almost like a Mora sheath), many of these have M-number (NSN-number) engraved on them too. The first knife on my page.
 
Lets exclude not currently selling models.

There are three variations, the two most common are the thermorun [spell] handles and are optional with either a coated or satin finish.

Then there is the more pricey micarta, fulltang version.

you could search google and find this type of information for yourself in less than a couple minutes... I strongly suggest that you do this.

And your confusing firesteel with flint and steel... again search google. ;)
 
saltgrassbear said:
I thought you needed carbon steel for this.

SGB
Click to expand...

Carbon steel is necessary to create a spark with the traditional flint and Steel method, but not with a spark rod. With a spark rod you are using the knife, or glass, or whatever to take shavings of of the rod itself, those shavings are sparked because of the friction. With traditional Flint and steel the steel (knife, striker, etc.) is struck on the flint and because the flint is harder than the steel it actually shaves pieces of the steel off and those are the sparks you see.

So in the traditional flint and steel method carbon steel is necessary (for whatever reason, I don't know) but with a modern ferrocium rod anything hard enough will shave the rod to create sparks.
 
The reason I brought all the models up is that you can still buy the older models for discount here and there.
Firesteel = any knife. The sparks comes from the firesteel rod.
Flint = carbon knife. The sparks comes from the knife.

A F1 is great in any configuration, it is mostly a cosmetic thing. The steel is the same in all three currently available versions (satin, black or micarta handle) and you can even buy a blade blank and add your own handle to it.

Good luck with your choice.
 
Hey Guys..

Personally I like the satin version of the FI..

The black coating does Very little to protect the blade, and is more there for anti glare purposes rather then to protect the steel..

After a bit of use the knife will get scratched to crap. I'd rather just have plain VG10 than a scratched to rat shit black coating over VG10

Just my opinion though..

ttyle

Eric
O/ST
 
Thanks For The Informative Replies. I Was A Little Worried About The Laminated Blade Steel. Thought It Might Be Weak. Your Reassurance Has Helped. I Believe They Have Been Approved For The U.s. Air Force Pilots Also But I'm Not Sure Of This. I'll Be Picking One Up Soon.

Sgb
 
Hey Guys..
sgb..

They've been making laminated steels for a couple of years now..

I think you'll be Ok :)

ttyle

Eric
O/ST
 
I bought the coated one but ended up sanding it all off.It got messed up so bad the knife looked like crap.Now it looks great.
 
Hey Guys..

SS..

I agree completely...

Unless a non glare finish is needed,, why bother....

ttyle

Eric
O/ST
 
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