Fallkniven Odin

Yep, and all the others in the NL line.

Quite simply "They are bought by those in 'the know' "
 
No, but I have the Tor and the damascus Idun. (NL1 and NL5)
They are great knives. I'm planning on buying the rest of the series also.
 
at first tell me if i make a mistake in english (learning process) and i will tell about de fallkniven knives
i myself have a lot off knives like all the brothers here .i have randall's,hillknives enz enz but the way they make the bevel off the fallkniven odin and the njord is perfect you can make them so shaving sharp on a japanese waterstone starting from 300 grit and finish with 8000 grit cut a tree in half and still make firesticks with a shaving sharp knife ,the only knife i have who can compare are the ones made by masano in japan (bleu paper steel ) normaly when i go backpacking i take the odin for the big work and put it in my backpack. and the njord is very good balanced for all the small work like cleaning fish . i had a fallkniven a1 but i gave it to a friend off mine who need a good knife in afganistan as a member off our dutch commando"s
in my opinion they are worth the mony in a triple way because the are so well made that it will not be only your knife ,but it wil make his own history , like your knife will be my fathers knife who used it to cut my first deer with it and he learned me outdoor skills,and then it will be my grandfathers knife and so on and so on
and then history is born today
and no i do not one the fallkniven factory
greatings
edwin
holland
 
THAT'S extremely helpful...........................:rolleyes:

Sorry David.

OK let me put it another way.

You dont see them advertised with outlandish statements, or exotic pictures of them with camo jackets and bullets sprinkled 'artistically' around them. They are made of good steel and you will find that owners of one usually become owners of several models. They are thick(ish) and strong, but they cut like the devil. I have shaved curls so fine with my Tor that all it took was one scrape of a firesteel to get a live flame. They are as adept in the kitchen as much thinner knives and last but not least the NL series are a beautiful.

I have never seen such a one sided 'yes' vote when people mention they are going to get one and ask for opinions. The odd purist Brit bushcrafter might think they are way too thick, but these guys are usually in the minority.

The Odin has the chopping ability of the A2 but will be kinder on the hands (the A2 can rub you raw if you use it a lot for limbing style work) due to the leather handle.

Danno4017 That sounds like a marketing slogan

I believe Range Rover used it ages ago.
 
I have an Odin, and the only thing I don't love about it is the leather handle. Why? I don't like leather handles, never did. Prefer wood for looks and traditional knife feel, and synthetics like Kraton for grip. It's a quality knife, and if you feel like buying it, I don't think you'll regret it any time soon. But if you're out for the best price-to-performance ratio, I'd suggest you go with the A1 or A2, with the caveats mentioned by the other posters.
 
Sorry David.

OK let me put it another way.

You dont see them advertised with outlandish statements, or exotic pictures of them with camo jackets and bullets sprinkled 'artistically' around them. They are made of good steel and you will find that owners of one usually become owners of several models. They are thick(ish) and strong, but they cut like the devil. I have shaved curls so fine with my Tor that all it took was one scrape of a firesteel to get a live flame. They are as adept in the kitchen as much thinner knives and last but not least the NL series are a beautiful.

Now that WAS helpful ! thank you !

I have an A-2 and an F-1 and like them. I've been wondering how a larger Fallkniven would compare to a Busse Fusion Battle Mistress, tho.

The one big advantage I see with Fallkniven over Busse is availability.

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The one big advantage I see with Fallkniven over Busse is availability.

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Well, David, that depends.... but I take your point. Busse's can be had but it requires patience.

But to me, these are completely different knives with different design philosophies. Fallkniven are VG-10 - a very good quality stainless steel, Busse's are INFI - a great carbon steel. The more you subject a knife to impact (chopping, batoning etc) the more likely you are to chip the edge of the stainless knife. The carbon steel knife is more likely to deform allowing you to reshape the edge without removing metal. A big long term win IMO.

The Fallkniven NL series are very pretty and I'm sure they are terrific (unfortunatley, I only own a White Whale at this point) knives, but I don't think they'll hold up under the most extreme use like a Busse will.

JMO

Ken
 
I have never seen a need to do with a knife what a lot of people consider normal if 'extreme'. There is a saying that goes like this, "after a certain point, all dangers are equal" one could equally apply this to knives with "after a certain strength.."

I havent handled a Busse and in all honesty have no interest in their designs, I do own all the NL models though and after an age of searching I have settled on them as the 'one(s)'
 
I have never seen a need to do with a knife what a lot of people consider normal if 'extreme'. There is a saying that goes like this, "after a certain point, all dangers are equal" one could equally apply this to knives with "after a certain strength.."

I havent handled a Busse and in all honesty have no interest in their designs, I do own all the NL models though and after an age of searching I have settled on them as the 'one(s)'

Of course this is correct and I don't typically put my knives through the extremes others do either. But ultimate strength wasn't really the point I was going for. It was "Edge damage will occure - frequently for some, less so for others - what do you do to fix it?". With all my stainless knives, I put them on a diamond stone or my Spyderco Sharpmaker and remove a thin layer of the edge. With a Busse, since the edge is deformed, not chipped, I use a stropping technique that removes very little metal but realigns the egde. Why does this matter? Because, over time, if you keep removing metal, you'll change the bevel to the point your knife will need reprofiled (and I hate doing that too often).

It's just one factor and one that really only applies to folks who use their knives alot and plan to pass them down to their great, great grandkids...

Everything I know about Fallkniven is good. They make great knives and are a good value for a quality product. Same with Busse. But they have different philosophies on what makes the best blade. As Sal Glesser likes to say "All good, just different".

Ken
 
I like that, all good just different. That's very true. I have plenty of Busse's, and am thinking about Fallkniven. They seem to have very good quality, and I really like a lot of their blades - F1, U2, S1, and now the NL series. VG 10 is a very good steel, and I have plenty of other knives using it that I have a lot of confidence in it.
 
I prefer Busse, plain and simple. I own several. Each one is my "go to" knife.

But if someone wants a 7.5" blade before the week is out and refuses to pay exhorbitant aftermarket prices, they will not be getting a Busse.

They COULD get a Fallkniven, tho, and that was my point.

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