Ferro rods, or magnesium blocks?

Bark River makes a decent ferro rod on the cheap. For me, I've found that most rods have been the same, it's what you have to strike it with that really matters. I prefer the back of my blades, the sharper the spine, the better.

KSF has some nice rods w custom wood handles, but also check out Diomedes Industries. He does custom work at a good price,
 
I'll go with the ferrocerium rod 100% of the time. I just find it more effective and versatile. If you want, you can use the ferro rod like you'd use the magnesium block in that you can always get fine scrapes off of it, and ignite it by throwing sparks on it. This is one of the applications where having a sharp spine of the knife comes in handy.

My humble opinion is it's better (when it comes to the efficacy of starting fire) to spend the money on getting a longer and thicker ferro rod than worrying about the handle (though a good handle certainly helps). I typically use 1/2" x 6" ferro rod as my main combustion tool. In practice, I found bigger rods to throw more sparks (obviously more surface area to play with) and also easier to hold with my big clumsy hands. The common opinion from the experts is that most handles will come off at some point, unless they're pinned through the handle and the rod. Hence, I just wrap a 1" wide gorilla tape around an end several times; it serves as a decent handle and also can be used as a tinder if necessary.
 
I've had and used both mag' blocks and ferro rods. When buying a mag block, spend the extra couple bucks and buy a good quality one. The $2.99 mag blocks they sell at cheap Acme tool stores are a joke and unreliable. I've found ferro rods to be the best for what I need to start a fire. You'll need dryer, fluffier more combustible tinder, but if you gather correctly, one good strike is all you should need. The Light My Fire 12,000 strike fire starter is the best IMO. It has no fancy titanium housing or a tacticool camo case. It's a no frills, built well, and to last, ferro rod. I mean seriously, are you ever going to light 12,000 fires?!?!
 
Check BCUSA... I have a combo mag/ferro sourced from a guy with the S/N "Hemlock".. very cool and the handle is made of paduk, which you can also shave to make tinder dust!
 
catalystman80 said:
I'll go with the ferrocerium rod 100% of the time. I just find it more effective and versatile. If you want, you can use the ferro rod like you'd use the magnesium block in that you can always get fine scrapes off of it, and ignite it by throwing sparks on it. This is one of the applications where having a sharp spine of the knife comes in handy.

My humble opinion is it's better (when it comes to the efficacy of starting fire) to spend the money on getting a longer and thicker ferro rod than worrying about the handle (though a good handle certainly helps). I typically use 1/2" x 6" ferro rod as my main combustion tool. In practice, I found bigger rods to throw more sparks (obviously more surface area to play with) and also easier to hold with my big clumsy hands. The common opinion from the experts is that most handles will come off at some point, unless they're pinned through the handle and the rod. Hence, I just wrap a 1" wide gorilla tape around an end several times; it serves as a decent handle and also can be used as a tinder if necessary.
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Good post
 
xxwjtxx said:
Check BCUSA... I have a combo mag/ferro sourced from a guy with the S/N "Hemlock".. very cool and the handle is made of paduk, which you can also shave to make tinder dust!
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Will, is it similar to this -

IMG_4019.jpg

I picked this up at Blade show last year and really like it. I intend on switching the leather strap with some jute, just to have that much more flammable material on hand.

And speaking of jute, ITS has paracord that has replaces one of the inner strands with a strand of jute for fire starting. Looks like quality stuff.

http://www.itstactical.com/store/bushcraft/its-550-jute-paracord-type-iii/
 
I prefer firesteels over magnesium blocks.

I have an assortment of Light My Fire, Bark River, and Going Gear firesteels. More than I need for sure. I use the Light My Fire most often. My favorites are a couple of 3/8” x 4” Going Gear rods that I made desert ironwood handles for from some leftover wood from a knife re-handle project.

The other piece of fire-starting gear that I love is the brass K & M match case. This is a real gem that is beautifully machined and made in America by a really nice couple. Check out their website if you don’t know about these: http://www.kmmatchcase.com/content.php?page_id=1

Phil





 
Bamboo said:
Will, is it similar to this -

View attachment 438111

I picked this up at Blade show last year and really like it. I intend on switching the leather strap with some jute, just to have that much more flammable material on hand.

And speaking of jute, ITS has paracord that has replaces one of the inner strands with a strand of jute for fire starting. Looks like quality stuff.

http://www.itstactical.com/store/bushcraft/its-550-jute-paracord-type-iii/
Click to expand...

That's it ken, really cool piece and works very well! I'm very interested in the jute/550 combo; I'll have to look into that!
 
Those desert ironwood handles look fantastic Phil!

Comprehensivist said:
I prefer firesteels over magnesium blocks.

I have an assortment of Light My Fire, Bark River, and Going Gear firesteels. More than I need for sure. I use the Light My Fire most often. My favorites are a couple of 3/8” x 4” Going Gear rods that I made desert ironwood handles for from some leftover wood from a knife re-handle project.

The other piece of fire-starting gear that I love is the brass K & M match case. This is a real gem that is beautifully machined and made in America by a really nice couple. Check out their website if you don’t know about these: http://www.kmmatchcase.com/content.php?page_id=1

Phil
Click to expand...
 
Comprehensivist said:
The other piece of fire-starting gear that I love is the brass K & M match case. This is a real gem that is beautifully machined and made in America by a really nice couple. Check out their website if you don’t know about these: http://www.kmmatchcase.com/content.php?page_id=1

Phil
Click to expand...

This is from their website - "K&M matchcase was designed on purpose to open and close and to seal without threads from the first prototype right up to the present models."

Does that mean that the top isn't threaded on? If so how does it close - perfectly machined press fit? Looks like a great piece, I wish they had more photos on their site. I may actually own one of the 'bad copies' they referenced. Although it is a good bad copy in that it has never leaked on me.
 
Bamboo said:
This is from their website - "K&M matchcase was designed on purpose to open and close and to seal without threads from the first prototype right up to the present models."

Does that mean that the top isn't threaded on? If so how does it close - perfectly machined press fit? Looks like a great piece, I wish they had more photos on their site. I may actually own one of the 'bad copies' they referenced. Although it is a good bad copy in that it has never leaked on me.
Click to expand...

Double o-rings and a perfect fit.



 
Bamboo said:
This is from their website - "K&M matchcase was designed on purpose to open and close and to seal without threads from the first prototype right up to the present models."

Does that mean that the top isn't threaded on? If so how does it close - perfectly machined press fit? Looks like a great piece, I wish they had more photos on their site. I may actually own one of the 'bad copies' they referenced. Although it is a good bad copy in that it has never leaked on me.
Click to expand...

The part of cap piece that goes into the body has double O-rings on it for a watertight seal. The keeper string is a loop that goes through an eyelet on the base of the body and through a crosshole in the cap. The loop has enough slack when it is straight to allow the cap to be removed and replaced. After the cap is seated, you give it a twist and that tightens the loop to remove the slack and functionally lock down the cap. That is why the string is shown corkscrewing around the body.

It is much harder to explain this in words than to show in pictures. I will take a series of pictures in the next day or two to show how it works. It is really a simple but ingenious design.

Thanks,

Phil
 
Excellent replies everyone. I've been doing more research on ferro rods. I guess I shouldn't have listed my preference for mag blocks without having tried a decent rod. That sounds terrible.

Anyway, I've got some plans for you guys, but you'll have to wait a little bit.

Another question. For any type of striking tool, what are you finding to be the best striker? I've read up on this too, and have seen some very interesting ideas. I know what I'll be using, I'm just curious about what you use and like best.
 
My humble opinion is a knife with a crisp spine is the best all around option since you'll typically be carrying your knife, and hard to explain, but the size and the weight that a knife provides over a smaller scraper is something I find it useful when I'm striking ferro rods (of course depending on the application, sometimes you'll be scraping the rod against the knife, like when you want to ensure a very targeted spraying of the sparks, e.g. birds nest). I think I get better feedback on the position and the amount of pressure I put on it, but it's likely a personal thing. Hence when I'm carrying my FBs, I typically have a Mora bushcraft black with me as it comes with a great sharp spine.

Others that's worked well for me are awl from my victorinox MT (it's less than 90 deg so it's sharper but it's not sharp like a knife so I find it very effective), a piece from a broken glass, the scraper from fire steels,com, etc. One tool that'll throw ALOT of spark is the Corona AC clipper sharpening tool, can get it from amazon or hardware store for about ten bucks. Downside is in my experience, it tends to leave lot of bumps along the ferro rod, so you have to be pretty careful how to strike the rod.

With all that said, just to provide a perspective, any cheap scraper that comes with ferro rods will do the job. I think a little more effort put into processing your tinder will go a long way. Of course it's tougher in wet conditions, hence it's not a bad idea to find the combo that'll give you goblets of spark. Hence I still recommend a sharp spined knife, and a big a$$ ferro rod in the end, because it works well rain or shine, and has the least amount of items, and has the least amount of moving parts.
 
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K & M matchcases are a top-notch piece of gear. IMHO.
One thing I haven't seen mentioned is that the magnesium block is susceptible to erosion from salt water. Something to think about.
 
I like the "tiny hacksaw" looking ones the best.

our own Heber Ellsworth offers a nice little addition of a 'striker pouch' on the back side of his leather for a couple extra bucks. these things slide into there perfectly.

10pcs-lot-New-Tool-Magnesium-Firesteel-Flint-font-b-Striker-b-font-Stone-font-b-Fire.jpg
 
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