Fetch the tar and feathers... pitting on a CASE CV blade, I think

Humppa

Humppa

Joined
Jul 25, 2010
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Hi guys!

I have a CASE knife I really like very much, but haven´t carried it much in past few months. It is the Texas Jack in Amber Bone and CV steel. So I carried it today for EDC. During a break at work I pulled it out and fondled a little with around - just for fun.

While I was cutting some small branchets I realised that there was pitting on the blade. At least it seems like this. It is a rough, round piece of black steel that looks like pitting. You can see it here in the upper left side of the pic of the blade



All the other black spots on there are from use, but that very one on upper left side is pitting, I think. When I go over it with my finger nail it is really rough and feels quite uneven. And it looks quite ugly, doesn´t it??

So what can I do to remove this and until it will eat deeper in the steel. Or would make any effect, at least?

I have to admit, that I have used to oil the blades when I put them away a longer time - I did this on this knife was well. I have no idea where this spot comes from. I really love that knife and carried it frequently- but I haven´t used the secondary blade that much, for a nice patina like on the mainblade!



So go and fetch your bukets with tar and the feathers :p :p

I know this shouldn´t have happened, but it did :(
 
This is pretty typical, and to be expected somewhat on CV blades; at least as compared to mine. An even patina can reduce the occurrance of them a little bit. I have a Case 6375 CV stockman (pic below), on which I patinated the clip and sheepfoot blades with a heated vinegar/water mix, and leaving the spey 'as is' for the sake of comparing how much difference the patina might make on the other two blades. I've noticed over time, the previously 'shiny' and unpatinated spey blade has accumulated a few 'rough' spots like you're seeing. I've also noticed this sort of spotting on my CV Peanut, which hasn't yet received a forced patina (that'll be fixed soon).

The spots can usually be minimized or scrubbed out with some metal polish, or some high-grit wet/dry sandpaper (maybe ~ 800+). After doing that, you might consider forcing a patina on the blade to even out the finish (some of the previous patina will be sanded or polished off). After that, might also oil the blades as you'd previously said you've done, if sweat or humidity is a bigger factor. I think sweat accounts for most of the spotting on mine, as they've turned up after I'd been carrying the knife in-pocket, in more humid seasons here.

(...and no tar & feathers necessary for you, Andi. Stuff just happens sometimes. :))


David
 
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Thanks for the kind replie, David.

I almost thought about using some sandpaper or metal polish. When my Peanut was found after some weeks in a wet shag during autumn, it worked.

I´ve almost tried if you could remove it with some oil. But w/o success.

I want to be honest. I´ve never had the problem with pitting on any of my blades. But now I know how it looks like. :(

Thanks again, for the helpful replie, David. (Oh, and thanks for keeping the tar and feathers where they are stored well)
 
David,

That is a nice, even patina on the stockman. Can you share your exact technique with the heated vinegar & water?

Thanks,

Andrew
 
AFAustin said:
David,

That is a nice, even patina on the stockman. Can you share your exact technique with the heated vinegar & water?

Thanks,

Andrew
Click to expand...

Real simple, actually. It's the same method I'd used previously on my Schrade 8OT; it's my 'coffee pot patina', done after I'd used a 50/50 mix of vinegar (white) and water to de-scale my coffee maker. Just poured the mix into the coffee maker and let it do it's thing in the brew cycle, collecting the liquid again in the pot. Then just dipped the blade into the mix, holding the blade in the hot (~180°F) liquid for 30-60 seconds at a time, then lifting it out to check progress (can actually see the blade darken faster when exposed to the air). I'd re-dip the blade maybe 3 or 4 times, then rinse it off and scrub it with baking soda to neutralize any remaining acidity and scrub any loosely-bound oxide away. The even grey is the oxide that's more strongly-bound to the steel, and it doesn't scrub off.

My coffee maker is getting a bit 'slow' again, so I'll likely be doing my CV Peanut pretty soon as well (as well as the spey on that Case stockman). When I'd done it the first time, the idea of dipping my 8OT's 1095 blades into it was an afterthought. I get sort of a 'two-fer' out of the deal in the process, so it makes the boring task of de-scaling the coffee maker a little more fun. :D


David
 
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David,

That's great, thanks so much.

I guess liquid at 180 degrees or so doesn't hurt the heat treat on a blade, or else you wouldn't have done it. But, for my education, at what temperature does that become a concern?

Anyway, thanks for the tip. I always hate the chore of cleaning the coffee pot, so this might help motivate me.:D

Andrew
 
I've had good results with Naval Jelly. I would highly recommend (cough, cough) that you try it on something that you don't value first. It will eat rust away and leave a patina all in one shot. Perhaps leave something outside in the rain to rust - an old machete or shears, or something, and try it on that first. It works really well, but definitely changes the look of everything it touches.
 
AFAustin said:
David,

That's great, thanks so much.

I guess liquid at 180 degrees or so doesn't hurt the heat treat on a blade, or else you wouldn't have done it. But, for my education, at what temperature does that become a concern?

Anyway, thanks for the tip. I always hate the chore of cleaning the coffee pot, so this might help motivate me.:D

Andrew
Click to expand...

With most steels, heat treat won't be affected until the temp gets upward of ~350-400°F. Even boiling temps (for water) wouldn't faze it. My Schrade 8OT is my favorite slicer, and it's performing as well as ever. :)


David
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
This is pretty typical, and to be expected somewhat on CV blades; at least as compared to mine. An even patina can reduce the occurrance of them a little bit. I have a Case 6375 CV stockman (pic below), on which I patinated the clip and sheepfoot blades with a heated vinegar/water mix, and leaving the spey 'as is' for the sake of comparing how much difference the patina might make on the other two blades. I've noticed over time, the previously 'shiny' and unpatinated spey blade has accumulated a few 'rough' spots like you're seeing. I've also noticed this sort of spotting on my CV Peanut, which hasn't yet received a forced patina (that'll be fixed soon).

P9040244_zpsb6fe39c1.jpg


The spots can usually be minimized or scrubbed out with some metal polish, or some high-grit wet/dry sandpaper (maybe ~ 800+). After doing that, you might consider forcing a patina on the blade to even out the finish (some of the previous patina will be sanded or polished off). After that, might also oil the blades as you'd previously said you've done, if sweat or humidity is a bigger factor. I think sweat accounts for most of the spotting on mine, as they've turned up after I'd been carrying the knife in-pocket, in more humid seasons here.

(...and no tar & feathers necessary for you, Andi. Stuff just happens sometimes. :))


David
Click to expand...

That's a great looking knife! I really like the bolsters and the scales! It looks like you've taken good care of it!

Thanks for the thoughts on cleaning up CV! I've got a yellow stockman too and in this humid climate they get a little rusty!
 
That's just character, Andi. Traditional knives just do that, and it looks fine. :thumbup::thumbup:
 
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