Fiebings Atom Balm Wax...no more for me

[Gary W. Graley]

Well, just finished up a sheath for a fellow, a large butterfly sheath, really large one! And when it came time to apply the protective wax coating, I didn't want to use the usual Fiebings Atom Balm wax that I normally use, as I feel that is too shiny a finish. So, I had some Browning Leather Preservative that a friend out west had sent me years ago, thanks again Raj ! where I had used that on my work boots or gloves or old leather jacket, I hadn't used it on a sheath and decided to give that a try.

So I experimented on a piece of leather that I had dyed saddle tan, one side with the Fiebings and one with the Browning. Let dry and buffed it with a shoe brush to finish it. The Fiebings side was much shinier than the Browning as I had figured it would be, the Browning is more a paste where the Fiebings is in liquid form, not sure the reason for the difference but knew it would be shinier. Then I spritz'd the piece of leather and there is where the rubber meets the road !!! The Fiebings side the water beaded up very briefly and then it soaked up the water! While the Browning side beaded up and just sat there beaded up, you could then wipe it off without any of the water being soaked into the leather. That did it for me, closed my bottle of Fiebings and I'm not looking back. I applied the Browning to his sheath, let dry and buffed it out, looked great. It felt tacky for a while so I let it dry longer and buffed it some more and it was ok then to the touch.

NOW, I know some of you leather necks out there have your own secret recipes for coatings, and some use off the shelf, please comment on what you use, if you can without telling your secrets and we'll have an interesting discussion on leather finishing's !

G2

 

[Bigfattyt]

I have some Fiebings Aussie leather conditioner.

I usually heat the sheath in the oven and apply several coats, then buff off. Often, I add Atom Balm Wax over that.


I'm no expert though!

My sheaths usually get a drying/stiffening effect from the oven heat.

I'd always be open to other stuff.


If I had a good supply of bee's wax, I would try that.

I need to get a hold of my cousin. He is a bee farmer, and I bet I could get a great supply from him! I have a crock pot all picke out to use melt it.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

Everyone is probably getting sick of hearing it from me, but my favorite is wax/oil.

I do a lot of poking around the net in search of better products, especially when it comes to finishes. No one will be able to do much research without coming across a strong suggestion for beeswax and oil together.

Here's my take.

Fiebings Tan-Kote

Nice finish, seems to last but can be removed with soap and water. Resin based and is not considered a water repellent top coat.

Fiebings Leather Balm with Atom Wax

Another non water repellent top coat. Provides a shiny finish when buffed. Honestly, I have a bottle but can't seem to find a place for it in my work. Maybe I'd like it on smooth chrome tanned? Dunno.

Sheen products

Great water resistance. Acrylic top coat that can crack or delaminate over time. Probably more of a concern with belts, guitar straps and other flexible items versus the sheaths we make, but it's something to look at.

Beeswax/oil

Great water resistance. Your choice, mellow or shiny. May need re-application sooner than other finishes (anecdotal). Darkens work and can lift dye, so be very careful with intricately dyed work. Cannot be sprayed on like other finishes.

To me, all of the finishes I've tried have an up and down side. For 90% of my work, wax is best. I do want to get an airbrush system to evaluate some of the most recommended finishes on sheaths where I've done painstaking dyeing with a paintbrush, but those projects are few and far between because customers generally prefer a single color or relatively simple color scheme.

 

[Gary W. Graley]

I hear you guys, I just not one to put them into an oven at least the folder sheaths that I make, I was pretty surprised at how poorly the atom balm wax didn't repel water!

This Brownings leather preservative I don't find listed any longer, I do find one similar looking in the Obenauf's LP lineup though.

G2

 

[druid189]

my home-made recipe:

Materials list:

Clean metal can with lid. A new paint can from Home Depot is great...
sharpie marker
clean paint stirer
Double boiler [a pot with water to put the paint can in will suffice]
1 lb pure beeswax
8 oz Boiled Linseed Oil
8 oz Turpentine
Heat gun or hair drier with a 'hot' setting

Wax into the paint can, paint can into the double boiler and on LOW heat, melt the wax completely. Add the BLO and Turpentine.
Remove from heat and stir until it begins to solidify.
Set aside and allow to completely set [usually overnight].

Using a plastic putty knife, sponge or latex-gloved hands, spread the cream on the project evenly, completely and slightly more/thicker than "sparingly."

Use the heat gun on low [or hair drier on 'high'] and heat the mix just so it absorbs into the project.

This mix works on everything.....canvas/cloth, leather, bare wood and metal. [note....it will not absorb into paint if used on painted wood].

When using on tool handles [axes, mauls, etc] you can apply it twice.

Use the sharpie to write the recipe and user instructions on the can.

This stuff is awesome and will last 20 years if you keep the lid on it when not in use.

 

[leatherman]

Gary, you got me rethinking my finish. I use both Atom Balm and Aussie conditioner.

I may be using more Aussie conditioner in the future, it sounds a lot like that Browning stuff.

btw you were the one who got me on Atom Balm, Its served me well but I agree with you on the water issue. Its bitten me before . I look forward to seeing what you come up with! I'll probably be getting some of whatever you do.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

Gary, keep in mind that Obenaufs lp and hdlp, Sno-Seal and many other highly recommended (and expensive) treatments are beeswax based. They contain other oils, binders and emulsifiers, but my understanding is that the primary protection comes from the beeswax.

Sick of the spiel yet? I'll let it go now.

Dwayne, I believe it was one of your old threads (or one addressed to you) that got me started with the insane search on wax in the first place. In a way it's all yer fault!

 

[vilePossum]

it's all your fault (whoever feels adressed)... i came to a similar conclusion as omega,... seeing that the browning sealant is no longer available and obenaufs stuff is wax based, i will give druid mix a try.

 

[Gary W. Graley]

Nice guys I've always wanted to dip a sheath into a pot but I'd reserve that for fixed blades if I got to making one of those again.

And I have a supply of the Brownings that should last a while, good to know it has the beeswax included, certainly repels water nicely !

But as I say, the two bottles of Fiebings atom balm wax liquid will be tossed here soon, just need a safe place to dispose of it!

G2

 

[Awhiteha]

i use the same recipe but omit the the turpentine and add one cup mineral oil and a half cup pinyon pine pitch (as a native american pinyon pitch is used for antibacterial qualities and a good sealer that 'still breaths'). I boil the pinyon pitch and then strain it with a wire mesh strainer. They can be cleaned by pouring boiling water over it.

my home-made recipe:

Materials list:

Clean metal can with lid. A new paint can from Home Depot is great...
sharpie marker
clean paint stirer
Double boiler [a pot with water to put the paint can in will suffice]
1 lb pure beeswax
8 oz Boiled Linseed Oil
8 oz Turpentine
Heat gun or hair drier with a 'hot' setting

Wax into the paint can, paint can into the double boiler and on LOW heat, melt the wax completely. Add the BLO and Turpentine.
Remove from heat and stir until it begins to solidify.
Set aside and allow to completely set [usually overnight].

Using a plastic putty knife, sponge or latex-gloved hands, spread the cream on the project evenly, completely and slightly more/thicker than "sparingly."

Use the heat gun on low [or hair drier on 'high'] and heat the mix just so it absorbs into the project.

This mix works on everything.....canvas/cloth, leather, bare wood and metal. [note....it will not absorb into paint if used on painted wood].

When using on tool handles [axes, mauls, etc] you can apply it twice.

Use the sharpie to write the recipe and user instructions on the can.

This stuff is awesome and will last 20 years if you keep the lid on it when not in use.

 

[Awhiteha]

Here is one that has been dyed and treated. Then hand stitched. When you rub it on it just melts in and you can leave it a day and it completely soak in overnight. I think this is very similar to the Montana Pitch Blend leather products.