Cliff Stamp
BANNED
- Joined
- Oct 5, 1998
- Messages
- 17,562
The dual convex/flat edge should be easy to field resharpen as that is the primary design goal. It gives more strength than a flat edge profile, but allows you to sharpen with similar methods. However, you restore the worn edge by lightly honing on *one* side only. To illustrate :
The top image is a sharp dual edge, the second one is a worn one. The next shots show two different ways to restore the edge. The first one is to raise the flat bevel up to match, this would be done on a flat hone. The last picture shows what would result if you used a ceramic rod to lightly micro-bevel the edge instead.
When doing this you do not want to use the burr method as you now have to take this off by honing on the convex bevel which if you can do then have a full convex grind on the edge. Just give the edge a few strokes and test it. Repeat this until it gets sharp. With experience you will greatly reduce the number of times you need to test the edge.
If you do oversharpen a little and form a light burr then use a loaded strop to work it off. In fact using a steel and loaded strop for field sharpening will go a long way and you should only really need to resort to a hone after a digging session or something similar.
Now over time after many such field sharpening, the dual edge will get distorted as you are only honing on one side. So periodically when you are home you might want to hone the convex part of the bevel to keep the edge at 100 % .
-Cliff
The top image is a sharp dual edge, the second one is a worn one. The next shots show two different ways to restore the edge. The first one is to raise the flat bevel up to match, this would be done on a flat hone. The last picture shows what would result if you used a ceramic rod to lightly micro-bevel the edge instead.
When doing this you do not want to use the burr method as you now have to take this off by honing on the convex bevel which if you can do then have a full convex grind on the edge. Just give the edge a few strokes and test it. Repeat this until it gets sharp. With experience you will greatly reduce the number of times you need to test the edge.
If you do oversharpen a little and form a light burr then use a loaded strop to work it off. In fact using a steel and loaded strop for field sharpening will go a long way and you should only really need to resort to a hone after a digging session or something similar.
Now over time after many such field sharpening, the dual edge will get distorted as you are only honing on one side. So periodically when you are home you might want to hone the convex part of the bevel to keep the edge at 100 % .
-Cliff