Recommendation? File Guides - 2021

J. Keeton

J. Keeton

Joined
Nov 15, 2005
Messages
1,201
Well I think it's time to upgrade from my DIY file guide. Searching through the old threads I know this question has been discussed. Seems like the two most popular file guides are the Riverside and the Bruce Bump guides. I'm currently leaning towards the Bruce Bump since I think his guide will lend well to the situation I describe in the next paragraph.

I plan on using this file guide not only for grinding and filing up against, but also for clamping into my mill vise so that I can machine in my shoulders on hidden tangs.

I was wondering if there were any new file guide makers on the market that are worth looking at in 2021? The Carbide Guide from Texas Knife Supply and Knife Kits? Just making sure I cover all my bases.


Bruce Bump Guide (SS and Carbide):
https://brucebumpknives.com/fileguides/brucebump

Riverside Machine:
https://www.riversidemachine.net/ecommerce/carbide-file-grind-guide.html

Texas Knifemaker's Supply:
https://www.amazon.com/File-Guide-w...e+guide&qid=1612658368&sr=8-1#customerReviews

Knife Kits (SS and Carbide):
https://www.knifekits.com/vcom/file-guide-stainless-steel-275-160-carbide-faced-p-15774.html


Edit: I'm also wondering if I should buy two... a tool steel version for clamping in my vise and milling shoulders, and a carbide version for file against and grinding?
 
Clamping into my mill vise to machine shoulders...? Say what?

why wouldn’t you just grind the shoulders in and file the corners or use a 9” disc grinder to finish it?

why would you want to mill them in?
What advantage does this give you? What am I missing here ??

I have the riverside machine guide. It’s a bit heavy and bulky for thin kitchen knives.

I also have the behnke aluminum with carbide. Much lighter and friendlier to use for thin kitchen knives.

however I think the carbide on the riverside is harder or more durable.
 
HSC /// said:
Clamping into my mill vise to machine shoulders...? Say what?

why wouldn’t you just grind the shoulders in and file the corners or use a 9” disc grinder to finish it?

why would you want to mill them in?
What advantage does this give you? What am I missing here ??

I have the riverside machine guide. It’s a bit heavy and bulky for thin kitchen knives.

I also have the behnke aluminum with carbide. Much lighter and friendlier to use for thin kitchen knives.

however I think the carbide on the riverside is harder or more durable.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info.

I haven't made very many hidden tangs, but the one's I've made I've milled the tang in after watching @Karl B. Andersen and Kyle Royer do it that way. I'm not saying one way is better than the other, just that's how I've done it to this point.

Looks like Riverside has a jig specifically for that operation - https://www.riversidemachine.net/ecommerce/knife-fixtures/sholder-milling-fixture.html

But I'd hope I could use the file guide the same way... along with the normal duties of a file guide.

Edit: For reference this is how I did my last one - 2:35 - Milling Shoulders
 
Last edited:
You dont need to mill in the shoulders.

The entire purpose of of the file guide is to "guide the file". Just file in the shoulders.

And if you were to mill in your shoulders a file guide is not needed. It is a mill and easy to mill in shoulders evenly.
 
AVigil said:
You dont need to mill in the shoulders.

The entire purpose of of the file guide is to "guide the file". Just file in the shoulders.

And if you were to mill in your shoulders a file guide is not needed. It is a mill and easy to mill in shoulders evenly.
Click to expand...

I figured I could clamp the knife in my file guide. Mill the shoulders and recess the shoulder some into the tang along the flat, then flip the fixture over and get the other side. Seemed easier than what I did here - 2:35

Just an option I was hoping to have along with the other uses of the file guide.
 
I’m not trying to knock what you are doing on the mill. I just wanted to understand the why. As far as I can see the mill set up takes way too long for the desired result

it’s simply way faster to take the material off on a grinder and then finish it on the disc sander and confirm by filing it in.

you can get a JS class fit like this.

btw the Commerically made 123 blocks you used in the video aren’t properly designed to bolt together in a useful manner. Have a look at the original Moore pattern 123 blocks which are designed to be bolted together.

nice videos, they must take a long time and a lot of effort.
 
The
J. Keeton said:
I figured I could clamp the knife in my file guide. Mill the shoulders and recess the shoulder some into the tang along the flat, then flip the fixture over and get the other side. Seemed easier than what I did here - 2:35

Just an option I was hoping to have along with the other uses of the file guide.
Click to expand...
The way you are holding them on the mill, I don’t see how a file guide gives you any advantage at all.

the point of a carbide file guide is the carbide is harder than a file at 66 rc and harder than a ceramic belt.
 
HSC /// said:
I’m not trying to knock what you are doing on the mill. I just wanted to understand the why. As far as I can see the mill set up takes way too long for the desired result

it’s simply way faster to take the material off on a grinder and then finish it on the disc sander and confirm by filing it in.

you can get a JS class fit like this.

btw the Commerically made 123 blocks you used in the video aren’t properly designed to bolt together in a useful manner. Have a look at the original Moore pattern 123 blocks which are designed to be bolted together.

nice videos, they must take a long time and a lot of effort.
Click to expand...

No it's fine, I don't mind doing things differently. I don't have a disk grinder, but I know perfectly good fits can be achieved with a file guide and files. I just like using my mill because I have it.
 
HSC /// said:
The

The way you are holding them on the mill, I don’t see how a file guide gives you any advantage at all.

the point of a carbide file guide is the carbide is harder than a file at 66 rc and harder than a ceramic belt.
Click to expand...

This isn't the only reason I'm buying a file guide. Just one thing I plan on doing with it. :thumbsup::D
 
Back to your original question. I have one each of Bruck Bumps two sizes of file guides and for the price, I think they are the best you can get.
 
I have two. I first got one from River side machine. It broke but uncle Al doesn't answer my E-mails.
Next I got one from Creative man.
It looks the same as the one from Knife Kits.
It is very handy and I like it.
Only down side: my magnet bubble jig doesn't stick well tovthe creative man one. It does stick to the one from River side
 
Hengelo_77 said:
I have two. I first got one from River side machine. It broke but uncle Al doesn't answer my E-mails.
Next I got one from Creative man.
It looks the same as the one from Knife Kits.
It is very handy and I like it.
Only down side: my magnet bubble jig doesn't stick well tovthe creative man one. It does stick to the one from River side
Click to expand...
What broke on it?
Have you tried phone calling them?
Or send it back in the mail with a letter
 
Thanks for the input peeps.

N Natlek this is my DIY one. It works fine, but I wanted to try out one of the professionally made guides.

 
Riverside and behnke

s2bZxpW.jpg
 
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