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file knives
- Thread starter mr mike
- Start date
Hi Mike, I've tackled a question like this one before. Knowing full well that I'll get beaten about the head and shoulders verbally, I have to say YES YOU CAN!!!
I started off in knife making by making file knives, heck I still have, use, abuse my first knive I ever made, and I made it out of a file. I have stropped it once since I made it and its still hair popping sharp, and I've cut everything from belts to wood and cut a few machine screws in half with it. SO THERE
sorry I get a little defensive
Hope this helps.
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KSwinamer
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KSwinamer
It can be done. If you search through the history on this site and also on knifeforums.com bladesmith formum you will find plenty of information on how to do it.
I do not think it is a bad way to start. The best argument I heard against it was that if you make a really nice knife, you would regret not using on of the top steels out there. File steel is plenty tough for most knife uses and I do not think you will regret using it.
Regards,
Glenn
I do not think it is a bad way to start. The best argument I heard against it was that if you make a really nice knife, you would regret not using on of the top steels out there. File steel is plenty tough for most knife uses and I do not think you will regret using it.
Regards,
Glenn
I have some questions for those of you that have sucessfully made knives of files. Did the finished knife take and hold an edge? Does it take a coarse or a polished edge or both?
Awhile back I got an Anza knife just because I'd heard that they were made from files. I've been VERY disappointed with it's edge holding ability. I'd put it about on par with the lowest lowend, under hardened stainless in terms of edge holding, but initially it will at least form a coarse edge. What is your experience, and do any of you make knives of files for sale?
Thanks,
mps
Awhile back I got an Anza knife just because I'd heard that they were made from files. I've been VERY disappointed with it's edge holding ability. I'd put it about on par with the lowest lowend, under hardened stainless in terms of edge holding, but initially it will at least form a coarse edge. What is your experience, and do any of you make knives of files for sale?
Thanks,
mps
MPS, If you take a look at my reply you can get an idea of the edges I get when I make a knife out of a file, you can get both types of edges, but I prefer the polished edge. I've sold file knives and I found that they sold equally on two basis: 1. People liked the idea that it was "recycled" and 2. People liked the texture that remained of the file.
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KSwinamer
mps,
I've made a few knives out of files...
They take and hold both kinds of edges very well indeed.
This particular blade is 5" it can chop through a and still shave although it's ugly
, or cut through wet tissue paper cleanly. I believe that it's W1.
homepages.go.com/~jclinic/fileknife.JPG
Joe
[This message has been edited by JoeL (edited 02 April 1999).]
I've made a few knives out of files...
They take and hold both kinds of edges very well indeed.
This particular blade is 5" it can chop through a and still shave although it's ugly
homepages.go.com/~jclinic/fileknife.JPG
Joe
[This message has been edited by JoeL (edited 02 April 1999).]
- Joined
- Mar 2, 1999
- Messages
- 666
Joe,
Nice knife! Stock removal or forging? I'd have to guess forging. How did you harden/temper it?
Keep up the good work and feel free to pass on any hints or tips that you may have.
Mike
Nice knife! Stock removal or forging? I'd have to guess forging. How did you harden/temper it?
Keep up the good work and feel free to pass on any hints or tips that you may have.
Mike
- Joined
- Mar 5, 1999
- Messages
- 10
Yes you can make knives from files, here is my first knife ( from a file )from scratch.
<img src=http://www.magiclink.com/web/kimrmc/file1.jpg>
Look under the Topic ( beginner question )in this section for important info about hardening, tempering of a file. This is info you need to know prior to starting!!!! I would imagine the edge holding ability of a file probably depends a lot on how hot you get the steel when grinding on it.
Kim
[This message has been edited by Kim McHenry (edited 02 April 1999).]
<img src=http://www.magiclink.com/web/kimrmc/file1.jpg>
Look under the Topic ( beginner question )in this section for important info about hardening, tempering of a file. This is info you need to know prior to starting!!!! I would imagine the edge holding ability of a file probably depends a lot on how hot you get the steel when grinding on it.
Kim
[This message has been edited by Kim McHenry (edited 02 April 1999).]
Mike,
Thanks for the comment
The knife is forged and finished with files and sand-papers.
For the heat treatment, I coated the back of the blade with some high-temp cement and quenched in water. Then tempered in an oven at about 350F for an hour. The most exciting moment is the quenching, I have some blades that just broke into pieces but it's fun
Kim,
Is the handle micarta? It looks very nice!
Joe
Thanks for the comment
For the heat treatment, I coated the back of the blade with some high-temp cement and quenched in water. Then tempered in an oven at about 350F for an hour. The most exciting moment is the quenching, I have some blades that just broke into pieces but it's fun
Kim,
Is the handle micarta? It looks very nice!
Joe
Lots of guys, myself included, have file knives in our past. Still make one occasionally. The good files in the past were W1 and W2. Both good straight carbon tool steels.
I anneal the file first to soften it so it can be filed, drilled and ground easier. Heat to cherry red (the point where it becomes non-magnetic) and quickly bury in vermiculite, a box of dry wood shavings. Air tight so it won't burn, lime, or dry wood ashes. The key is that it is insulated so it cools over several hours.
Then grind and shape through a 220 grit. Drill holes and otherwise finish.
Then reharden by heating to the same non-magnetic point and quickly quenching in oil. (Yes the W1 and W2 denotes water quench, but it is not necessary in thin sections like knives). Then draw or temper the hardness by putting in an oven at 400 deg F for two hours, cooling, and repeating for another two hours.
Then continue finishing the heat treated file blade to the degree desired, being careful not to heat it beyond the 400 deg F point. If it turns blue you've messed it up and have to reharden and retemper.
Having said all this, be really careful about using files. Many of the no-names, or Chinese imports, or Wal-Mart specials are inferior steel and won't properly harden. Some are not even tool steel but are simply case-hardened. You'll do all that work and wind up with junk.
About the only brand I still trust is the Nicholson.
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Ben R. Ogletree, Jr.
I anneal the file first to soften it so it can be filed, drilled and ground easier. Heat to cherry red (the point where it becomes non-magnetic) and quickly bury in vermiculite, a box of dry wood shavings. Air tight so it won't burn, lime, or dry wood ashes. The key is that it is insulated so it cools over several hours.
Then grind and shape through a 220 grit. Drill holes and otherwise finish.
Then reharden by heating to the same non-magnetic point and quickly quenching in oil. (Yes the W1 and W2 denotes water quench, but it is not necessary in thin sections like knives). Then draw or temper the hardness by putting in an oven at 400 deg F for two hours, cooling, and repeating for another two hours.
Then continue finishing the heat treated file blade to the degree desired, being careful not to heat it beyond the 400 deg F point. If it turns blue you've messed it up and have to reharden and retemper.
Having said all this, be really careful about using files. Many of the no-names, or Chinese imports, or Wal-Mart specials are inferior steel and won't properly harden. Some are not even tool steel but are simply case-hardened. You'll do all that work and wind up with junk.
About the only brand I still trust is the Nicholson.
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Ben R. Ogletree, Jr.