Files for stainless steel

P. McKinley

P. McKinley

Joined
Jan 27, 2008
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I just purchased three new Nicholson files(2 made in Mexico, one from Canada) specifically for guard/spacer slots. I just finished the first project with these, 3/16 piece of stainless, using two of the files. They are now both done, flat smooth, no teeth left, worthless, kaput. :mad:

ONE PIECE!!

What files do you use for stainless?






-Peter
 
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What'd you expect silly... carbide is gonna kill any file other than diamond coated. :p

What grade of stainless? Has it been thermal cycled? 416 is butter soft if thermal cycled, but if left as forged, it can easily kill an endmill.

If you go with Nicholson files, I highly recommend getting NOS (Made in USA)...the new stuff from Mexico and such is pretty poor quality.
 
McMaster does not generally list the brands they sell but I have always found their stuff to be of the highest quality.
Thanks for the link. I will check those files out again very soon.
 
There is a file made especially for highly wear resistant die steels and stainless steels. It is called the "Corinox" file made by Pferd. Not sure if "Corinox" is a proprietary thing, or the general name of that kind of file.

If you need to file stainless, the Corinox is what you need. Haven't used it myself, been hoping to hear from others before I try it.
 
I made this exact same mistake with my "new" (last year) Bruce Bump carbide file guide. I should have known better and I realized my error after my files stopped cutting. I even tried other files in desperation which resulted in me ruining more files. The carbide guides should be called "grinding guides", which they are excellent for by the way.

This post caught my attention because I just re-ordered six new flat and mill files this evening. I've had good luck with Nicholson American cut files in the past; yet I hope the quality hasn't gone down as much as I've heard discussed in some cases.

Anyway, file guides should be a few hardness points below the typical 60 - 61 Rc file hardness, in my opinion. I'd much rather slowly wear out a file guide than have to replace a large number of files in differing thicknesses, cut, profile, etc. I wish the vendors of non-carbide file guides would publish their target range for hardness on the metal guides.
 
Diamond files are a godsend for guards, especially stainless. I have been experimenting with hardened guards with hamons too, and again, diamond is the way to go.

I need to look into the Corinox files. Thanx.
 
Carbide does take a toll on file teeth especially if you push down against the carbide. I make allot of frame handles and do wear out a file once in awhile. For me its a trade off to spend money on a file and get the accuracy possible with this method. Well placed file strokes help allot. Also do most of the heavy removal on the grinder before breaking out the files. Don't be tempted to use diamond files, diamonds the only thing harder than carbide.
Heck I wore out files way before I discovered carbide. They don't last forever ya know.
 
Stainless steel files [for use on stainless steel] are there to prevent contamination .Use them only for stainless Use on carbon steel will put bits of carbon steel on the stainless .The carbon steel will rust , and that will continue into the stainless .A proper stainless machining operation will never use the tooling on anything but stainless steel.
 
Bruce Bump said:
Carbide does take a toll on file teeth especially if you push down against the carbide. I make allot of frame handles and do wear out a file once in awhile. For me its a trade off to spend money on a file and get the accuracy possible with this method. Well placed file strokes help allot. Also do most of the heavy removal on the grinder before breaking out the files. Don't be tempted to use diamond files, diamonds the only thing harder than carbide.
Heck I wore out files way before I discovered carbide. They don't last forever ya know.
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This might be the one instance where a cheap file made in India or China is called for over a premium one.
 
mete said:
Stainless steel files [for use on stainless steel] are there to prevent contamination .Use them only for stainless Use on carbon steel will put bits of carbon steel on the stainless .The carbon steel will rust , and that will continue into the stainless .A proper stainless machining operation will never use the tooling on anything but stainless steel.
Click to expand...

I may have just learned something, I,ve never heard that before and have not had rusting troubles. Makes sense but seems a bit extreme for most of us.
 
Bruce, that's the proceedure for those who have serious applications . Another thing done is "passivation" which cleans the surface of dirt and iron particles .Google that and you'll find the proper proceedures .Now they are sometimes using citric acid for the bath as it's easier on the environment.
And for those who are plating metals, SS or others, the better plating is to first reverse the leads for a while to remove oxides and dirt , then change the leads and plate ! Most plating that has peeled is due to contaminents on the surface.
 
Well, its Bruce Bump's file guide I'm using. I blame him for my troubles.:p

Bruce - What about using the back side of your guide. Will it withstand a file for this task?

-Peter
 
P. McKinley said:
Well, its Bruce Bump's file guide I'm using. I blame him for my troubles.:p

Bruce - What about using the back side of your guide. Will it withstand a file for this task?

-Peter
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yes you can use the back side too although it will need to be resurfaced soon. the stainless is 303 in my file guides.
 
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