Finishing Cabin Corners With An Axe | Half Dovetail Notch Technique

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I've just written this up for my blog, but I thought it might be of interest here too.

Cutting Corners
One of the big decisions you’ll have to make when setting out to build your log cabin is what sort of joint to use at the corners of your structure. There are various options from the square notch to the simple notch, all with varying degrees of difficulty. Every single one of these techniques is perfectly attainable with determination and a sharp axe.

LogCabin_zpsjczvyxfj.jpg


Any of the techniques in the illustration above will work, but the chamfer and notch approach has three slight advantages. Firstly, it’s stronger and more secure. Secondly, the sloping bevels allows the joint to shed the rain. Thirdly, it is the most beautiful of the three. And if you’re doing this for the sheer joie de vivre of the thing, then notching and chamfering presents the biggest technical challenge.

First Steps

In this scenario we will assume that you don’t have measuring tape or a joiner’s square. So you will need to spend some time judging by eye the way that your corners will join. With the approach we are using the upper cut of the join should be downward sloping. This way the joint will be able to let the rain water run out rather than collecting on a flat plane. The key is that upper cut of each successive log will slope down but at right angles to the downward slop on the log below. This should become clearer in the next phases.

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Using a pen, pencil or piece of charcoal, draw out angles of the joint. The image above shows the log with the lines drawn out. It is upside down — as you can see the downward sloping plane is on the bottom.

Scoring and Cutting

The next phase is fairly easy. Score the waste material of each joint with a saw.

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IMG_20150623_185902_zps1b6ab6e9.jpg


Then use your axe (better be sharp!) to cut out the waste wood from the joint. Use the axe like a plane to ensure a nice smooth plane so that your logs connect nicely

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Finishing and Fine-tuning

Even if you have used a joiner’s square and measuring tape their will be some fine adjustments to make. Since this is ‘field carpentry’, there will be even more fine tuning. Don’t get despondent, what seems like a disaster may in fact just be that your angles of the two downward sloping bevels are off by a few degrees. It doesn’t take much of an error for the join to look very ugly. Persevere and plane the angles with your axe. With a bit more tweaking you should end up with something like this.

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It’s not perfect, but its certainly functional and is fairly easy on the eye. Hopefully somebody finds this helpful.
 
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I've just written this up for my blog, but I thought it might be of interest here too.
. . .

Thanks for the write up. I have an interest in hand tools for woodworking, how they were used, joinery, etc. I did a search for joiners square. I found a couple of places that sold them outside of the U. S. They look like what I know as a try square. Curious if they are the same. Are you in the U. S.? Is there a name for that joint? Looks like a half-lap with the mating surfaces beveled. How can I get to your blog?

Thanks, Bob
 
I did a search for joiners square. I found a couple of places that sold them outside of the U. S. They look like what I know as a try square. Curious if they are the same. Are you in the U. S.? Is there a name for that joint? Looks like a half-lap with the mating surfaces beveled. How can I get to your blog?

No problem, thanks for responding. Yes, when I said joiner's square I was being imprecise. I should have said set square or try square. I am based in the UK, which is a shame because your continent would suit me better.

I believe it is called a Chamfer-and-Notch or Half Dovetail joint.
https://books.google.co.uk/books?id...nepage&q=chamfer and notch cuts cabin&f=false

I didn't link my blog because my best friend and I are in the process of trying to start a small business selling expedition/outdoor kit, to which the blog is connected, and I didn't want to be plugging my stuff on here.

https://coleandreeves.wordpress.com/
 
I don't know where you're from but Ottawa Valley home (farmstead) building with squared pine timbers was done exactly like that in the early to mid 1800s. Many of these houses are still standing except that the sill logs have had to be replaced from being too close to moist ground. The corner joints though have withstood the test of time (freeze/thaw, shrink/expand, wind and weather) without having come loose. Iron nails and hardware (and window glass!) were mostly unaffordable to homesteaders at the time!
 
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I don't know where you're from but Ottawa Valley home (farmstead) building with squared pine timbers was done exactly like that in the early to mid 1800s. Many of these houses are still standing except that the sill logs have had to be replaced from being too close to moist ground. The corner joints though have withstood the test of time (freeze/thaw, shrink/expand, wind and weather) without having come loose. Iron nails and hardware (and window glass!) were mostly unaffordable to homesteaders at the time!

That's really cool to know. Are there any pictures of what you mean?

I'm always amazed when I look up and see church or chapel beams which have been there for 800+ years. I hope to build myself a wooden house someday. My great-uncle was a carpenter and wheelwright, and when he died he bequeathed all his tools to Shakespeare's family house where you can still see them to this day.
 
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That's really cool to know. Are there any pictures of what you mean?
I'm guessing that if you Google 'Ontario, or Ottawa Valley, Pioneer square log houses' pics will come up. There still are many of these out there and 100s of them have been restored.
 
Steve, I was hoping you would show up. The pictures your cabin construction was was the inspiration for my original post. Correct me if I'm not seeing this correctly, but it looks like you've gone for the full dovetail joint in that picture?

300Six, I did google that, and liked what I found. There's nothing to match the craft of days gone by.

Bob, that's a lovely image.

I just realised that I forgot to include any photos of the actual axes. As well as the ones pictured, I was also using a boy's axe.

IMG_20150624_1620221_zpspnqy4xdf.jpg


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Steve, I was hoping you would show up. The pictures your cabin construction was was the inspiration for my original post...

That's not my cabin, I guess I should have been more clear that Peter Vido and his daughter were building it in Canada, and he sent me the photos to post here since they don't have high-speed internet. She's a member of this forum and occasionally makes posts here.
 
That's not my cabin, I guess I should have been more clear that Peter Vido and his daughter were building it in Canada, and he sent me the photos to post here since they don't have high-speed internet. She's a member of this forum and occasionally makes posts here.

That explains that then. I've been wondering for a while whether you were Peter Vido and just talking about yourself in the third person. :p Either way, that cabin is an inspiration.
 
Josh,
Thanks for sharing those- seems you work like I do, I cannot seem to break a sweat without bleeding as well!! LOL
That looks like a nice Belknap Jesrey. ;)

Bill
 
joshiecole,
The illustration you show looks like it came from one of Eric Sloane's books. Sloane's art work is great but he was often incorrect on his descriptions. The log notch you are using is called the half dovetail and is an excellent notch. In my opinion the only log notch that is better is the full dovetail or compound dovetail. A Plumb 2 1/4 lb boys axe with a 18-20" handle is my favorite log notching tool.
 
Josh,
Thanks for sharing those- seems you work like I do, I cannot seem to break a sweat without bleeding as well!! LOL
That looks like a nice Belknap Jesrey.

Bill

Bill, I don't consider myself to have done any work unless I have at least one minor flesh wound. Yes, it is a lovely Belknapp -- what sharp eyes you have! :p

Sloane's art work is great but he was often incorrect on his descriptions. The log notch you are using is called the half dovetail and is an excellent notch.

Old Axeman, thankyou for pointing that out, I have now edited the title of the thread to properly reflect the correct terminology. I was also using a 2-1/4 lb boy's axe that wasn't featured in the pictures. It's my favourite weight of axe for the sort of things I like to get up to.
 
That's not my cabin, I guess I should have been more clear that Peter Vido and his daughter were building . . .

Did that cabin ever get finished? Was just at his website and no new photos. Sure would like to see the rest of the construction.

Bob

EDIT: when I first went to the site I just looked at the pictures. I went back to actually read ( :o ) and saw the project was discontinued. :(
 
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. . .
Old Axeman, thankyou for pointing that out, I have now edited the title of the thread to properly reflect the correct terminology.
. . .

Now that you have me interested in log corner notches, I have been looking at different types.

. . .
LogCabin_zpsjczvyxfj.jpg

. . .

. . .
I believe it is called a Chamfer-and-Notch or Half Dovetail joint.
https://books.google.co.uk/books?id...nepage&q=chamfer and notch cuts cabin&f=false
. . .

The author in your link uses those terms interchangeably. As this author as well.

From: https://books.google.com/books?id=j...R cabin OR corner "chamfer and notch"&f=false

I am leaning in the direction that "chamfer and notch" or "half-dovetail" would both be proper. I'm just trying to learn, so any comments are welcome.

Bob
 
Great post! Thank you.

We built that way in Washington State, too. This blockhouse uses the compound dovetail that Old Axeman mentioned.

Timber%20frame.jpg
 
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