Finishing Carbon Fiber

I don't mess with the stuff because I've heard that it can absorbed through the skin - plus the usual breathing dangers. Don't know for sure if that's true or not, but do be careful.

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I have worked extensivley with CF at work. (Boeing) OSHA classifies CF dust as a "nuisence dust". It is very fine and seems to stick to everything. At the very least wear a paper dust mask and gloves. A resperator would be better. We coat the unfinished sanded or machined edges with a type of 2 part epoxy mainly to prevent splintering. The woven type CF commonly used on knife handles is much less prone to splintering then the uni-directional type CF.
 
Darryl: We use lots of carbon fiber in our helicopters, and good dust collection is a must. WRT finishing, I have gotten good results with sanding to 320 grit, then lightly buffing with 240 greasless compound on a 7" loose wheel at 1750 RPM. this gives a nice satiny finish that isn't too slick to hold. Grit blasting (LIGHTLY!!) with 240 grit will bring out some neat texture from the weave, if you want that.

RJ
 
So, is sealing the surface after finishing essential or not? if so, how is it done and with what materials?

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On Two Wheels


 
I grind it to shape with a 220 grit belt then use a Norton Beartex wheel (6AM)to smooth it up. Next I bead blast it with the ceramic bead, stopping when I get the texture I want.

Hmmm, I do titanium and micarta the same way. Good,quick, smooth finish.
 
I'm still figuring the stuff out - seems like everything either cuts too much or not at all. I use a scotchbrite wheel for light shaping/radiusing (I find that it looks sorta ugly contoured so I leave it mostly flat). This cuts surprisingly fast, so then I've been trying a light grey (coarse metal-polishing) compound after, but this cuts barely at all - it gives a dull shine but doesn't "soften" corners or take out scratches as fast as I'd like. Then green chrome for a final shine, maybe White Diamond too. I dunno, still looking for something that will "blend" the stuff, a little cut and a little polish.

-Drew
 
whats norton beartex 6am? carbon fiber isnt really absorbed into your skin....like fiberglass...it tends to lay there and when you rub it etc it goes into your pores... making you itch all over....a good defense against the above is to rub baby powder..no joke...use vaseline brand it works best... all over your hands and forearms and arms.. then shower off right after you finish...20+ years of sanding surfboards...trust me i know what i am talking about...

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Jens beat me to it, but I was going to add that you can bead-blast CF. It goves a nice grippy surface texture which is more interesting then G10.
Aaron

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Tom,
The Beartex wheels are hard woven nylon with different grits in them. Range of hardnesses from 5 (soft) to 9 (hard). A = Alu oxide, S = Silicon carbide.

Several companies make them but the Norton is the best. Works on a low or high speed buffer.

They are designed to blend and polish weld joints, seams, etc and work great with Ti and most handle materials. Great time saver but they are a little expensive.

Look in MSC, Travers, or other suppliers that carry Norton products.
 
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