Finishing damascus? Post-etch techniques sought

P

P Casey

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Feb 17, 2013
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What is your preferred method for final finishing of damascus steel?

I've noticed that many makers have (beautiful) high-contrast patterns that are nearly black on bright white metal. I'm guessing that the metal is darkened after etching, but have not been successful with my results. Whatever I try just looks muddy and dirty. It is possible that I am not etching it deeply enough, but I keep thinking I am missing a step.

The steel in this knife is W-1 and a 10% nickel/cobalt alloy. It was sanded to about 3000 grit prior to etching. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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What are you using to etch? You should be able to get better contrast than that, The different contrasts can be from different steels used. Some of the steels are there more for a contrasting color than for edge holding ability. Certain steels stay bright after etch and some will go darker.
 
I used ferric chloride from Radio Shack to etch with, diluted to about 75%.
Here is an example that shows high contrast. It doesn't look to be etched particularly deep.
dave_lisch_sole_authorship_damascus_stag_hunter_knife_1658.aspx
 
Decarb after heat treat has a lot to do with a clean high contrast etch... make sure to grind past that layer.

I like to go to a high polish before etch, a light etch should show plenty of contrast.
 
Some use bluing to darken the already dark steel. Karl Andersen hot blues most of his stuff, man it stands out! But I think that most just etch in FC and polish the highs and call it good. Different people do different things to set the carbides. I have heard of boiling, washing in acetone, oiling and wrapping in plastic for a couple days, and I'm sure there others that I have forgot. This just keeps the dark stuff, well, dark! The steel choice makes a big difference also. The depth of etch makes it possible to sand the light colored steel(15n20 typically) and not touch the dark steel.
Correct me where I'm wrong guys, but that's my take on it.
Cody
 
Thanks for the responses. I will try hot bluing on my next project. The cold bluing did not do much of anything. I was ready to try shoe polish! On another carbon-steel damascus knife I made, I rubbed it with an onion and got a nice iridescence (but not the contrast I was attempting).
 
How long are you etching? I do something like 15 minutes then sand with 2000 grit then another 10 minutes. That's using 1084/15n20. I etch after 800 grit. Not that it should matter.
 
I mixed up three parts (liquid) ferric chloride to one part water. The knife was in the solution for about ten minutes, when I took it out, cleaned it with a fine Scotchbrite pad, rinsed it and put it back into the solution for about five more minutes. After etching, the blade was again cleaned with a fine Scotchbrite pad and rinsed with a baking soda solution. There actually is some depth to the etch, just not much contrast.
There are only about forty layers. The W-1 layers are about three times the thickness of the nickel alloy layers.
 
I use 2 parts distilled water, 1 part white vinegar, 1 part ferric chloride. Do about 10 minutes and rub with a scotch brite pad, then another 10. If the etch is deep enough (I like a fairly deep etch) The etch removes the straight high carbon area more than nickle (or chrome) areas. I then boil the blank in water for 30 min or so. This helps fix the blackish high carbon areas. Then I use 1200 grit paper with a hard backing to resand/polish the higher nickel areas. To me cold blue sucks. But, I do like to use Birchwood Casey Plum Brown. To apply heat the blade in an oven to around 300f and then apply with a cotton ball or swab. Should sizzle as you apply it. Reheat if needed. After applying rub lightly with real fine steel wool, do a couple coats or so. Then do the 1200 grit backed sanding of the nickel areas. Plum brown gives a durable dark brown with purple hints to the high carbon. If your etch is a bit deeper it is harder to wear the darker high carbon areas. Just my ways.
 
My way is basically one part ferric chloride, 4 parts water. Etch for 15 minutes, clean in the shop sink with 0000 steel wool and water, then another 10-15 minute etch. Sometimes a couple more clean/etch cycles, depending on the steel mix. On a couple of mosaic blades I've used Birchwood Casey Super blue to really bring the contrast out. Basically a slow etch and cleaning between two or three etches makes for a better contrast.
 
Yes, try a higher dilution ratio. I have a tank with 3:1 but I mostly use the one with 10:1 and it works great.
 
It's cold this time of year, is your etchant cold?

The knife has to be very clean too, I wash with soap and water, spray with windex then rinse in reverse osmosis water before etching. You can just use tap water to rinse, I have well water...
 
Finish to 600. Etch in ferric, buff, clean and etch again but in very strong instant coffee. Neutralise and you are done.

Foto-OL6ZRCHH-D.jpg
 
After a slow deep etch with whatever you use, try Parkerizing it. You'll get a deep permanent black and bright contrast. I think Chuck Richards has great tutorial on the process somewhere here on the forums.
 
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I had the same problem and read on Alabama Damascus's website how he suggested and it worked great , just etch for 15-20 min pull it out don't wipe it down at this time spray it with windex really good then dry it with a heat gun then oil it and you'd be surprised what a difference it makes he also suggest tempering it 2 times after the heat treat also.
Anthony
 
Delbert Ealy told me this once and it seems to work great. After etching, neutralize in water and baking soda. Whithout touching the blade, soak it down with Acetone. Let it evaporate and dry thoroughly. This will keep the deep black color intact.
 
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