First steel to forge?

O

Ome108

Joined
Apr 29, 2014
Messages
224
Hi Guys,
As a newbie, first time to try to forge , is 1018 good to start with.
What are some other steels to work with at the beginning.
I have alot of .5" 304 ss round rod?
Is the first technique pointing and drawing a taper?
Thanks,
Jon
 
Hey Jon. Your 1018 is indeed a good forging steel BUT it makes for a sorry blade due to the low carbon content (1018 = ~0.18% C, where suitable carbon steels range from 0.60 to 1.2% C). Save it for making some tooling like tongs, drifts, punches, etc. Your other candidate has issues in itself. The 300 series SS also has low carbon content (0.08 - 0.15%) and high nickel and chromium content. Therefore it is essentially unhardenable (caveat; it can be work hardened somewhat by cold forming operations).

The best advise (you will read it over and over here with a little searching) is to spring for a few feet of 1084 from a reputable dealer and avoid so many headaches right up front. I will challenge you now to determine why this advise is so common. Also 5160, 1075 and 15n20 make great starter steels if you can locate them with known chemistry and appropriate sizes and you plan to HT yourself.

You have some homework it seems. Spend some time with the stickies up top on the main ST forum section. There is some terrific info on metallurgy and heat treating that will make you work for understanding. Well worth a survey IMHO. Then go read this - twice:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/673173-Working-the-three-steel-types

Regarding forging techniques; it's not likely anyone here will give you an adequate answer on this. Too many variables such as what equipment and tooling you have/need and what kinds of knives/tools you want to make. Look around for a practicing smith or two in your area and make the effort/time for a visit. Chase local hammerins too. Some great folks will be getting together again at Dan Graves shop in Shreveport next weekend but I expect that commute would be a killer! Practice is everything, but only AFTER you have an idea of where you are going.

Best to you.
 
Hi Andy,
Thank You, I will take your advice and read and study the stickies and other sites.
There is alot to learn.
I would love to visit a blacksmith shop, but it is very difficult for me to travel.
Thank you very much.
Jon
 
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Where are you in NY Jon? I'm on NY/Canada border, you anywhere close?

edit to ad; I just looked at your profile, maybe I can help w/ knives and maybe you can help my back....
 
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Hi,
Thanks for your generous offer,
But, we live in nyc borough.
I will still help you with your back, just practice a few key stretches fir the spinal muscles.
You can email me for more detailed info
Jon
 
If you want to forge knives, you're better off learning the basics of forging, rather than trying to forge a blade right out of the gate.
Anvilfire.com used to be the go to site for great lessons on forging on line.
Better yet, find a blacksmiths' meetup and actually learn from the guys who do it all day every day.
Practice on cheap "cold rolled" steel, which is 1018.
 
Andy Lewis said:
Hey Jon. Your 1018 is indeed a good forging steel BUT it makes for a sorry blade due to the low carbon content (1018 = ~0.18% C, where suitable carbon steels range from 0.60 to 1.2% C). Save it for making some tooling like tongs, drifts, punches, etc. Your other candidate has issues in itself. The 300 series SS also has low carbon content (0.08 - 0.15%) and high nickel and chromium content. Therefore it is essentially unhardenable (caveat; it can be work hardened somewhat by cold forming operations).

The best advise (you will read it over and over here with a little searching) is to spring for a few feet of 1084 from a reputable dealer and avoid so many headaches right up front. I will challenge you now to determine why this advise is so common. Also 5160, 1075 and 15n20 make great starter steels if you can locate them with known chemistry and appropriate sizes and you plan to HT yourself.

You have some homework it seems. Spend some time with the stickies up top on the main ST forum section. There is some terrific info on metallurgy and heat treating that will make you work for understanding. Well worth a survey IMHO. Then go read this - twice:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/673173-Working-the-three-steel-types

Regarding forging techniques; it's not likely anyone here will give you an adequate answer on this. Too many variables such as what equipment and tooling you have/need and what kinds of knives/tools you want to make. Look around for a practicing smith or two in your area and make the effort/time for a visit. Chase local hammerins too. Some great folks will be getting together again at Dan Graves shop in Shreveport next weekend but I expect that commute would be a killer! Practice is everything, but only AFTER you have an idea of where you are going.

Best to you.
Click to expand...
Hi ,
Thanks for that link and plenty of reading.
I am still studying it.
My uneducated answer would be that 1080 is at that place in the chart , where there is no carbon left over and makes total pearlite with nothing leftover, and when heated, will go into solution at the lowest temperature of any other metals. Eutechtoid?
Am i correct.
Jon
 
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Eutectoid is in the .80% carbon range, i.e. 1080/1084
It will have the least complicated H.T. with a very good amount of predictability.
I could be wrong here but I think any difference in price between 1018 and 1080/1084 will probably be so small as to make it irrelevant.
I'd save your 300 series S.S. for stainless fixtures like pommels and guards, like AndyLewis said it's unhardenable.
 
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