First time Fluting a handle

JTknives

JTknives

Blade Heat Treating www.jarodtodd.com
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Jun 11, 2006
Messages
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OK this is my first time fluting a handle so be gentle ;). I think it turned out good and will look better when its mated up with its blade and hardware. it was lots of fun to make. The wire thats there is just a test to see how it will look. it will get seated down a bit more so only half of it is sticking up. its double twisted nickle wire. the checks and splits in the redwood burl will get filled and sanded. this is just the first step.
so here are the pictures and i hope you enjoy.


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It looks nice jt . keep on posting pictures of till your done.
vern
 
It is just a beauty, this kind of craftmanship will really add a great value to the knife....

I still couldn't figure out how it is done. I did try some before but never managed to make symmetrical as should be. If it is not a secret can you please explain a bit, there are some jigs around I noticed but is it really necessary to use one??
 
Looks good, JT. I'm guessing CNC mill with a ball nose cutter?

Next one, try and relax the rate of spiral. That one looks to be about 540 degree twist - six flute. Try 360 degree twist- four flute next time. It is more hand friendly and looks better. When the one you are doing is on a blade, you will see that it looks sort of like a screw, not so much like fluting.
Another thing that helps the finished look, is to carry the twist wire ( and the flutes) all the way to the ends, and turn them under,so they just disappear. With a well fitted spacer bolster and pommel, it looks almost like they come out of them.

Emre,
When I lay out a flute, using a pencil, I divide the blank into four longitudinal "quarters", at 90,180,270,360. I then make three circumferential rings at 1/4,1/2,3/4. I start the spiral at the top, going from intersection to intersection as the piece is turned, marking the spiral. A 1/4" wide strip of flexible plastic makes this easy to draw. Once all four flutes are sketched in, start with a round rasp/file, and make the preliminary cut in the center between the lines ( you want to leave the lines till the end. Switch to a half-round file/rasp once the starter grooves are set. Slowly make the flutes, doing them a little at a time, until there is a 4mm ridge between the grooves. The original lines drawn should be down the center of this ridge. Once all looks right, carefully make a groove down the line with a 3 corner file or a knife edge file. Deepen this to make the wire channel for the twist wire. It should be about 3/4 the depth of your wire twist, and just a little bit narrower than the wire twist. So, for example, if you have a twist of wire that measures 2mm, the groove should be about 1.9mm wide and 1.5mm deep. That should be just enough to allow the wire to sit snug when wrapping it, and set tight with a tap from a mallet. Remember, it is easier to take a little more off later.
Now, sand the main flutes with a piece of paper wrapped on a dowel until it comes about 1mm from the wire channel.There should be a small flat ridge on each side of the wire twist. In the final sanding, the two "lips" ( on each side of the wire groove) become slightly rounded, creating two half round "beads". The final look is - Flute, Bead, Wire,Bead, Flute...
When the handle is ready to wrap with the wire twist, deepen the wire groove as needed to make the wire twist sit so it looks right.

Jigs and all are nice, but all they really do is provide the reference lines and hold the handle for you.

Stacy
 
JT, did you use a machine to make this? I think Stacy is right in his estimate of it looking like a screw maybe due to it being made as if it was going to be a screw?

WHy is it round? Proper blades need an oval handle to properly index the blade and feel edge and guard alignment.

Damn nice work I think it looks GREAT all tight twisted.
 
yes you caught me i did it on a CNC mill with an A axes. but let me tell you it was a bit tricky with the programing and also having a long chunk of wood sticking out of the chuck. i had to set up a center for the other end. I guess the blade is going to be more like a short sword then a small dagger. I had though about doing a fluted spike instead of a blade but I'm a blade man:D. Stacy i am going to trim down the ends to the wire holes that way its a bit shorter and i can use some white spacer material with vine file work on it. ya the next one will be a looser twist. this one is 6 flutes with a twist rate of 360, its 4" long not including the ends that are being removed. I have been thinking it would be cool to do a titanium handle for a knife that has a loose flute to it.
 
Forget the nickel silver wire.It will yellow and be impossible to clean.Use Argentium silver.Its a sterling silver made with germanium that stops oxidation.It is easy to work with and inexpensive.
 
Its not nickel silver wire its solid pure nickel wire. Acid wont even eat it :)
 
That is Awesome JT! A cheap Wire cheat would be to use a nickle wrapped Bass guitar string. It's already nice and spirled for you!

Jason
 
Sam Salvati said:
WHy is it round? Proper blades need an oval handle to properly index the blade and feel edge and guard alignment.
Click to expand...

sam once you see what i'm making it will all come togather. :rolleyes:
 
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In addition to Sam's comment about the slight ( or not so slight) oval shape handles often have, a fluted handle normally has a center swell to it, or it may taper from but to guard. Straight cylinders and too tight a twist often look machine made, and detract from a really nice knife. Often the deciding factor in a prize winning knife is the "hand made" look.
Take a look at one of the knife books, like "500 knives". There are miraculous pieces in there that make your jaw drop. They are obviously machined, and you know that you will never own enough CNC equipment, or have enough skill, to machine a piece like it. Then there is a simple fluted dagger.The handle nicely tapers to match the blade, and there is a simple down-turned guard. All hand done with no whistles and bells beyond a small patch of engraving on the guard, and a turned pommel nut. You look at it and go "WOW". Not only does it look really impressive, but you see how it was done....and with some practice and careful work, you could make one similar. Those are the ones that win ,often. Collectors will almost always purchase a hand made and hand worked piece over a machined one.
Stacy
 
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