Fixing a rolled edge???

C

ChiefTTT

Joined
Apr 21, 2010
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Today in my backyard while chopping with my FFBM and NMSFNO my NMSFNO spilled out of my hand and bounced off my FFBM. Upon inspection i noticed a rolled edge near the belly of my NMSFNO. There's a slight flat spot and it's pushed to one side.

Is there a way to fix this without removing too material and redoing the entire egde?

Thanks

Walter
 
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Yes, you can use a smooth rod to push the edge back like the one shown below. Then just sharpen like normal.


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I bought an 'as-new, mint condition' hell razor that came with a good few deep dents on the belly. Looked like it had been chopped into hardened steel wire.

Steeling it for 10 minutes or so pretty much made the dents disappear. Most other knife steels would have been unrecoverable without grinding down to the dent level. I love infi! I didn't have a smooth steel, so I used a hardened, large screwdrive shaft, lol. Worked like a charm.

Just use a firm, steady pressure and you'll be fine.

Edit: If I recall correctly, I fixed the knife in a vice and used both hands to control the angle of the steel. Either that or the other way round. It's easier to control that way than hand-holding both.
 
Last edited:
randucci said:
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Yes, you can use a smooth rod to push the edge back like the one shown below. Then just sharpen like normal.

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Click to expand...

So with a Kitchen Steel,do you drag the knife edge away from the steel
or do you "cut" into it,like with a diamond stone?
 
fugawee said:
So with a Kitchen Steel,do you drag the knife edge away from the steel
or do you "cut" into it,like with a diamond stone?
Click to expand...

An easy way to use a steel for the first time is to hold it by the handle with the point pointed straight down into a non slip surface. Place the blade at the desired angle ala sharpmaker and use it just like the sharpmaker.

edited too add, yes cut into it!!!!!!
 
The general recommendation is to NOT use the typical grooved butcher's steel on a rolled edge. That will scrape away some steel from the edge. As noted above, clamp the knife in a vise, and use firm pressure with a smooth hard cylinder. Stroke away from the edge and you should be able to push the rolls back in line.
 
fugawee said:
So with a Kitchen Steel,do you drag the knife edge away from the steel
or do you "cut" into it,like with a diamond stone?
Click to expand...

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The rod shown above does not "cut", it is a polished smooth rod and will only "push" the blade edge, removing no material. Kitchen steels that sharpen are basically fine round files and I don't use them. To use the smooth rod, you "push" the edge with the rod in the direction from the spine to the edge to straighten it.

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randucci said:
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The rod shown above does not "cut", it is a polished smooth rod and will only "push" the blade edge, removing no material. Kitchen steels that sharpen are basically fine round files and I don't use them. To use the smooth rod, you "push" the edge with the rod in the direction from the spine to the edge to straighten it.

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Click to expand...

Agree 100% about the steel being smooth!!!!! Meat cutters knives are much softer steel and they use the steel quite frquently to straighten the edge.
 
ok,I just wanted to be clear on this,
to "sharpen" with a normal kitchen steel with grooves,
you go edge first into the steel,as if your trying
to slice off shavings

BUT

to correct a rolled edge,you use a smooth
steel and go from the spine towards the edge
(spine leading,like when convexing with a mousepad or stropping)

thank you
 
A steel us not for sharpening and I would never push the edge ofmynknife into one!!! Always pull the edge back on a steel or you might as well use a bastard file to sharpen :D
 
fugawee said:
ok,I just wanted to be clear on this,
to "sharpen" with a normal kitchen steel with grooves,
you go edge first into the steel,as if your trying
to slice off shavings

BUT

to correct a rolled edge,you use a smooth
steel and go from the spine towards the edge
(spine leading,like when convexing with a mousepad or stropping)

thank you
Click to expand...

PM sent
 
i don't own a smooth steel, only a regular kitchen steel.

ive repaired rolled edges using it.

it works just fine, but if given the choice, use the smooth steel.
 
fugawee said:
ok,I just wanted to be clear on this,
to "sharpen" with a normal kitchen steel with grooves,
you go edge first into the steel,as if your trying
to slice off shavings

BUT

to correct a rolled edge,you use a smooth
steel and go from the spine towards the edge
(spine leading,like when convexing with a mousepad or stropping)

thank you
Click to expand...


Exactly.


For the OP, I have not found a smooth steel yet, so I use one of my smooth polished screw driver shafts and it works just fine. You have to be a tiny bit more careful, that that you don't scratch your knife with the tip of the screw driver.

I had edge on spine contact with my FBMLE and it steeled right back in place.

Then I had edge on stone contact with a small pebble that must have hitched a ride onto my chopping block off a dirty piece of wood. Chopped the stone in half, and I just steeled the edge back for a few minutes, then ran a stone over the edge lightly, and then the strop. Worked like a charm.

That is the magic of infi, the steel will deform rather than chipping or tearing in most instances, and you can have much greater success getting it back into shape without removing as much steel.
 
A little steeling education seems to be in order here.

First and most very important Do Not use forceful pressure when steeling, it is not the correct way of using such tool. Even less pressure is needed with a grooved steel because the grooves act as small hammers focusing force in a smaller area increasing the burnishing effect of the steel.

Metal burnishing is what the steel is truly doing to the edge and the difference between a smooth and grooved steel is the amount of burnishing due to the difference in focused pressure.

When using a steel you need only use the weight of the steel and only a few times per side. Over pressure and over use of a steel can be damaging to the edge and counter productive to your goal.

Too get a better idea think of your knife as a piece of clay and the steel as the wooden stick used to form the clay. The more force you use the more distortion you cause, working with intersecting angles and using too much force causes the apex of the angles to be forced over each other rolling excessive metal from slope A to slope B. Your basically crushing the apex of the edge each time this is done.

Steeling will work if done correctly but is not really the greatest way of fixing a good knife. I would recommend using a ceramic rod, similar effects to a steel but with the added effects of abrasion to remove damaged metal from the knifes edge.

Look up "metal burnishing" and "plastic deformation" for a more technical description.
 
BlackDiamond said:
If you want a smooth steel you can use the smooth side of a drill bit
Click to expand...

...but remember to put plenty of tape on the rest of the (sharp!) drill bit to hold on to. Obvious maybe - especially when you've forgotten to do it just one time :rolleyes:
 
knifenut1013 said:
A little steeling education seems to be in order here.

First and most very important Do Not use forceful pressure when steeling, it is not the correct way of using such tool. Even less pressure is needed with a grooved steel because the grooves act as small hammers focusing force in a smaller area increasing the burnishing effect of the steel.

Metal burnishing is what the steel is truly doing to the edge and the difference between a smooth and grooved steel is the amount of burnishing due to the difference in focused pressure.

When using a steel you need only use the weight of the steel and only a few times per side. Over pressure and over use of a steel can be damaging to the edge and counter productive to your goal.

Too get a better idea think of your knife as a piece of clay and the steel as the wooden stick used to form the clay. The more force you use the more distortion you cause, working with intersecting angles and using too much force causes the apex of the angles to be forced over each other rolling excessive metal from slope A to slope B. Your basically crushing the apex of the edge each time this is done.

Steeling will work if done correctly but is not really the greatest way of fixing a good knife. I would recommend using a ceramic rod, similar effects to a steel but with the added effects of abrasion to remove damaged metal from the knifes edge.

Look up "metal burnishing" and "plastic deformation" for a more technical description.
Click to expand...

exactly right. When ever you roll an edge, you have cold worked it. Cold worked steel no longer has it's original properties. If it is small enough piece, no big deal, but if it is a large section you are better off using ceramic to get it back to shape. Steeling a large roll back to shape will work for a short while(with INFI probably a long while) but eventually the section of the edge will fail first. Best way to fix this is to steel the entire edge, then resharpen the edge removing most of the damaged section in the process. But steeling is a good quick fix that works.
 
So, when using a ceramic rod: should you 'cut in' the rod or draw the edge away from it (like was said for a steel rod)?
 
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