Flared tube rivets best method?

T

Tin.Man

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Sep 5, 2010
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So if money was no issue what would be the best setup? I’ve used the dies in a vice as well as the dies in an arbor press and both methods leave a lot to be desired.

I’ve seen a few videos of a kick press? I think it Chris Wilmont, curious if there are other ways? Happy to spend the money if it makes the process cleaner and more efficient.
 
What do you mean flared? Simple bevel tube end or rolling the tube end over to an extreme much like a shoelace eyelet?
If the latter, success is hugely dependent on the tube material. wall thickness, alloy, state of hardness, etc.
Further, shape and finish of dies & how the die imparts upon rivet. For example, lubed, rotating, vibrating, etc.
There is no ”best method”
 
There is a bit of math for flared tubes to look and work correctly. If done right, it's one of the best mechanical ways to secure handle scales.
 
As far a mechanical secured handle. I use Loveless bolts. They are the strongest I know of, flaring 1/4” tho g tube, I just use a center punch with the other side on a supporting flat like a small Anvil. Then I counter sink or chamfer the edges with a pointed carbide burr. I’m just making the tube secure. The Loveless bolts & epoxy are securing the handle. I also texture the outside of the thong tube and butter it with epoxy. Fill it with wax if you are concerned with it getting epoxy in it.
 
I use a vice with two flat head screws in each end of the tubes and a small dab of oil to prevent splitting the tubes. After that I finish them off with an anvil and punch both turned to match the 82 degree countersink I use. A place I used to work at had a small hydraulic press that with some dies would be perfect for setting the flares. I think it was an Enerpac brand. A larger size arbor press could do it too with the proper dies.
 
I counter sink the holes in my grips, cut the tubes to length, flair one end using a flair tool (plumbing type), apply glue to grips and tang, insert tubes from one side and clamp until epoxy is to the no drip stage. I then take two center punches with the shoulders at the same angle as the flair, place one in a 3" vise and set it on the anvil with the head of the punch contacting the surface. This will be my bottom die. I then take the other punch and hammer until I see the epoxy ooze out from under the flair (a third hand is greatly appreciated at this stage). Using denatured alchol or acetone, I wipe off the excess epoxy and Q-tip the hole.
I'm sure this isn't the best or most efficient method, but it works! The trick is knowing how long the tubes need to be.
 
Lieblad said:
What do you mean flared? Simple bevel tube end or rolling the tube end over to an extreme much like a shoelace eyelet?
If the latter, success is hugely dependent on the tube material. wall thickness, alloy, state of hardness, etc.
Further, shape and finish of dies & how the die imparts upon rivet. For example, lubed, rotating, vibrating, etc.
There is no ”best method”
Click to expand...

Lie lad I mean the flared tubes like on busse handles.

Laurence I’ve used loveless bolts in the last they are great, just not what I’m looking for, I want a mix of a front lanyard tube as well lanyard at the end and I can find a countersink bit abou 1000x easier than I can find the right step bit also the step bit $20-40 whereas countersink bit is $+-5

I’ve sewn the two screw and vice method as well, still seems like a lot of stuff to fidget with. Maybe I’ll try and make something with those plumbing tube dies mentioned.

No one has seen something production worthy? It’s really the only fastening type I want to use going forward so I’m happy to sort of buy once cry once
 
If it were me, I’d send a message to Ben Tendick or Hunter of The Huntsman Knife Co. Both members here on bladeforums.
They seem to have the process perfected.
 
Tin.Man said:
Lie lad I mean the flared tubes like on busse handles.

Laurence I’ve used loveless bolts in the last they are great, just not what I’m looking for, I want a mix of a front lanyard tube as well lanyard at the end and I can find a countersink bit abou 1000x easier than I can find the right step bit also the step bit $20-40 whereas countersink bit is $+-5

I’ve sewn the two screw and vice method as well, still seems like a lot of stuff to fidget with. Maybe I’ll try and make something with those plumbing tube dies mentioned.

No one has seen something production worthy? It’s really the only fastening type I want to use going forward so I’m happy to sort of buy once cry once
Click to expand...
I find 82 & 120 Degree carbide burrs & counter sinks on EBay. I hope you find exzactly what you’re look for.
 
Tin.Man said:
I’ve sewn the two screw and vice method as well, still seems like a lot of stuff to fidget with. Maybe I’ll try and make something with those plumbing tube dies mentioned.

No one has seen something production worthy? It’s really the only fastening type I want to use going forward so I’m happy to sort of buy once cry once
Click to expand...
I will take picture this afternoon of my tool .Not finished yet but you will get the idea ...............deadly precision /center/ and excellent visibility what is happening on both side .
 
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I have a system I use on my mill that I can snap a pic of tomarow as well.
 
This is what I plan to finish this days.Two connecting rods and little work on lathe , yellow is small axial needle bearing.Left side will be fixed ,on right side large screw ................It should work ............... I think :)

dwGlUQf.jpg

cBelcEr.jpg
 
Rhinoknives1 said:
I find 82 & 120 Degree carbide burrs & counter sinks on EBay. I hope you find exzactly what you’re look for.
Click to expand...

Is there any particular reason for 82 degree countersink ?............. What if I use 90 degree countersink , that s what I have ?
 
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Natlek said:
Is there any particular reason for 82 degree countersink ?............. What if I use 90 degree countersink , that s what I have ?
Click to expand...
90 degree should work fine. You just want your flaring die to match the angle of your countersink bit. So when you press the tube, it will lie perfectly in your countersink cavity in your scale.
 
Sorry I meant to takes picture of my set up but got distracted making a belt grinder. You can blame Salem for putting the idea in my head that my surface grinder needed a belt conversion.
 
Kevin McGovern said:
90 degree should work fine. You just want your flaring die to match the angle of your countersink bit. So when you press the tube, it will lie perfectly in your countersink cavity in your scale.
Click to expand...
Thanks Kevin ! I knew it , but that 82 degree confused me .For what is used that strange angle ?
 
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