flattening buffalo horn scales?

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PB Wilson

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Doug Dart of DP knives was kind enough to give me a set of buffalo horn scales for a future knife project. They are approximately 1/4" thick and have a curve to them over their length. The curve is about 1/8" from the ends to the middle.

Is there a way to flatten them out a bit before epoxying them onto a knife blade? Sanding them is out of the question due to the amount of curve. I know I could simply clamp them flat, but would soaking them help make them more pliable? If I soaked them and clamped them flat to dry would they retain that shape and result in less stress during the glue-up?

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
I don't think water is a good idea.
I've flattened quite a few sheep horn slabs cut from the radius of the raw sheep horn. I did this by putting them in a 275 degree oven for about 15 minutes, remove while hot and clamp between two pieces of steel to cool.
When cool - they're flat.
 
Heat 'em up, eh? I think I've got an old toaster oven in the basement. I doubt my wife would appreciate the smell of roasting horn in our oven.:eek:

Would water make the horn de-laminate?
 
Place in hot water when they get soft and flexible put the horn on a straight board and applied clamps and let dry. This will straightened and takeout the warped in the horn. In about two weeks will hardened back up and you can continue to the NextStep in preparing the horn for the knife. That's one of the reasons why I do not prefer using the horn. But I do if that's what the customer in wanting. But like I stated, it got to be a have to situation. :)

Terry
 
I'll caution you about flattening horn..... horn is nothing more than compressed hair. In my experience, if you use hot water to soften/flatten horn material, it will want to go back to its original shape/form if exposed to humid environments. At one time I built a knife for an individual who lives in Florida...a 10" bladed piece with sheep horn scales. I flattened them with hot water, let them dry for nearly a month, built the knife, and shipped it off. A couple of months later I got a call for the client, telling me that the scales were pulling away from the tang. I had attached the scales with Loveless bolts, and figured it was just a slight gap.....NOPE! When the knife arrived back to me, one of the handle scales had literally pull through the Loveless bolt! It had tried to go back to its original shape.

That was a valuable lesson for me....no more flattening horn material! I have seen the same thing happen with buffalo horn, and antelope horn. My personal opinion is that if you choose to flatten horn and apply it to a knife handle.....your likely going to see that knife again....and not under the best of circumstances.
 
Ed, I've done quite a few with HEAT and they're still in use today from California to North Carolina.
Water doesn't do anything but make them wet and soggy.
Heat slightly breaks down the protein in the "hair" and allows them to take on a new shape when cool.
I think that's how all sheep horn that is used in scale form is flattened.
Just my experience.
 
Here is a illustration of one knife I maded back in 2004 which I use a lot and has stood up against all kinds to weather conditions. I made about 10 knives like this and sold. I prepare my horn per to installing on a knife. I seal the horn so no moisture can get into the horn. I also, seal the liner and handle material so water, moisture, can not get in between. I have never have one returned as of yet. I did forget to mention all this in my above post. :)


Horn1.jpg


Horn2.jpg


A view looking down on the knife to illustrate the liner and material. This knife is 5 years old.
Horn3.jpg


Terry
 
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I have several sheep horn knives out there with no problems. I heated mine in boiling water for about 1/2 hour and clamped them to a steel plate for a couple days until good and dry. I also superglued a fiber backing on after getting them flat and reclamped to the steel until ready to install on the knife. Corby bolts and more superglue. No problems.
 
Thanks for the information. I may try to use them for a smaller-sized knife so I won't need the entire length and the curve.

I know that luthiers (guitarmakers and stringed instrument makers) often use heat with just a little moisture to bend their guitar and lute sides into shape. The heat and steam used on a hot bending iron relaxes the lingnin in the wood and allows it to take and maintain a bend. Maybe it's a similar process with horn?

Anyway, thanks for sharing your experiences. I'll use it for one of my own projects (I'm really new to this and don't plan on selling my first attempts at knifemaking) so I won't see warranty work down the line.
 
I work with a lot of cow and buffalo horn. Dry heat works best. Clamp the pieces between 2 pieces of steel that is thick enough to stay straight. Heat to no more than 250 degrees. Keep at temperature for about 30 minutes. Allow the horn to cool to room temperature in the oven. Do not use clamps directly on the horn, as when heated the clamps will leave depressions.
 
Did you try to make a handle thicker than one layer? If yes, what glue did you use? If not, what advice would you give me?. Thank you
 
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