Flaxseed Oil versus Linseed Oil?

J

John A. Larsen

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Jan 15, 2001
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As I understand it Flaxseed Oil is edible Linseed Oil. I am wondering if Flaxseed Oil works as well on wood as Linseed Oil? Having said that I do use Flaxseed oil on my wooden handle kitchen knives, seems to work OK. Thanks, John
 
John A. Larsen said:
As I understand it Flaxseed Oil is edible Linseed Oil. I am wondering if Flaxseed Oil works as well on wood as Linseed Oil? Having said that I do use Flaxseed oil on my wooden handle kitchen knives, seems to work OK. Thanks, John
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Flaxseed is food-grade, yes. Regular non-"boiled" linseed oil is cheaper 'cause it isn't subjected to as stringent standards of cleanliness but for wood is functionally identical. "Boiled" linseed oil has drying catalysts added to get it to polymerize faster.
 
As long as you are not eating it, there is no concern. There is a type of flaxseed oil that if properly processed is sometimes used as a dietary supplement, however since it has to be pressed under specific conditions, it's pretty expensive and so doesn't make much sense to use as a wood preservative. There is more to it than just purity standards, my understanding is that the nature of the oil changes if it's hot or cold pressed, and raw linseed oil is still not safe for human consumption in any real amounts (or it may just be a rather potent laxative, I'm not sure.
 
gadgetgeek said:
As long as you are not eating it, there is no concern. There is a type of flaxseed oil that if properly processed is sometimes used as a dietary supplement, however since it has to be pressed under specific conditions, it's pretty expensive and so doesn't make much sense to use as a wood preservative. There is more to it than just purity standards, my understanding is that the nature of the oil changes if it's hot or cold pressed, and raw linseed oil is still not safe for human consumption in any real amounts (or it may just be a rather potent laxative, I'm not sure.
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It's not that it has to be pressed under specific conditions--it's just pressed. Linseed oil used for wood is often further extracted after pressing using solvents to get all of the oil out of the seeds and while those solvents are almost 100% removed over the course of the process, it's possible for trace amounts of not-safe-to-eat solvents may be left floating around in there so it's a best management practice not to eat it. That process isn't used on food grade flaxseed oil.

In short, like I said previously, flaxseed oil uses food-safe processing methods while industrial flaxseed oil is less stringent about keeping it food safe and will be lower grade on a technical level, but for use on wood is functionally identical.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
It's not that it has to be pressed under specific conditions--it's just pressed. Linseed oil used for wood is often further extracted after pressing using solvents to get all of the oil out of the seeds and while those solvents are almost 100% removed over the course of the process, it's possible for trace amounts of not-safe-to-eat solvents may be left floating around in there so it's a best management practice not to eat it. That process isn't used on food grade flaxseed oil.

In short, like I said previously, flaxseed oil uses food-safe processing methods while industrial flaxseed oil is less stringent about keeping it food safe and will be lower grade on a technical level, but for use on wood is functionally identical.
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good to know, I'm going to guess you know more, and I might have had some bad info.
 
gadgetgeek said:
good to know, I'm going to guess you know more, and I might have had some bad info.
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As far as levels of inedible stuff you may have been thinking of rapeseed oil vs. canola oil. Rapeseed oil is high in erucic acid, which has a negative impact on the heart in high doses. Historically, and up until the 1960's, rapeseed was raised as an industrial oil, not for food. Canola is selectively-bred rapeseed that has a low erucic acid content and gets its name from CANadian Oil, Low Acid.
 
Have you tried Camellia oil, also known as Tsubaki oil. I have it because it is used on Japanese Hinoki Cypress cutting boards. Because it is here I have used it on the knife handles that have unsealed wooden handles it works great. It is also a great anti-rust coating for knife blades.
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FortyTwoBlades said:
As far as levels of inedible stuff you may have been thinking of rapeseed oil vs. canola oil. Rapeseed oil is high in erucic acid, which has a negative impact on the heart in high doses. Historically, and up until the 1960's, rapeseed was raised as an industrial oil, not for food. Canola is selectively-bred rapeseed that has a low erucic acid content and gets its name from CANadian Oil, Low Acid.
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Rapeseed/Canola is fine for using on woods or on ironware but you wouldn't catch me cooking with any of that stuff, it has an unpleasant taste together with toxic possibilities. Olive Oil (which here in Europe is getting very expensive lately:eek: ) has always been my choice for culinary purposes, some people use it on Horn handled knives too.
 
Will Power said:
Rapeseed/Canola is fine for using on woods or on ironware but you wouldn't catch me cooking with any of that stuff, it has an unpleasant taste together with toxic possibilities. Olive Oil (which here in Europe is getting very expensive lately:eek: ) has always been my choice for culinary purposes, some people use it on Horn handled knives too.
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Canola is completely safe for human consumption. That was the whole point of the selective breeding project that produced it. If you don't care for the taste that's one thing, but please be aware that the "toxic possibilities" you mention are myth regarding canola and only apply to plain rapeseed oil.
 
While we don't need to get bogged down in a health debate, my concerns about 'toxic possibilities' I still find valid not mythological. It's rather like butter/margarine: I'd never eat the latter out of choice as it's a highly processed, industrial and artificial concoction that demands all sorts of dyes, chemicals and additives. Likewise Canola, which has GMO and herbicide inputs that I don't want to have to trust the manufacturers' reassurances on.
 
So then (knife content), what’s your favorite knife for spreading butter?

Parker
 
Will Power said:
While we don't need to get bogged down in a health debate, my concerns about 'toxic possibilities' I still find valid not mythological. It's rather like butter/margarine: I'd never eat the latter out of choice as it's a highly processed, industrial and artificial concoction that demands all sorts of dyes, chemicals and additives. Likewise Canola, which has GMO and herbicide inputs that I don't want to have to trust the manufacturers' reassurances on.
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From a scientific standpoint, it is non-toxic and fully edible. Whether or not it's good for you to eat long-term is a completely separate matter. There are all sorts of natural things that will kill you if you eat them. Canola oil itself is not toxic, and it was specifically developed to be safe for human consumption. The toxicity that rapeseed oil has is due to its high erucic acid content. That's just the science of it. As pertains to knives, trace amounts of it from a handle of a knife or tool are not going to do you any harm. Anything else doesn't pertain to this topic and belongs in a culinary discussion forum.
 
catspa said:
So then (knife content), what’s your favorite knife for spreading butter?

Parker
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From German Drywall masters in ScottsBluff, Nebraska I learned about curved putty knives. These Germans used butter on a slice of bread like plaster on lath and plaster walls. These Germans where one of the few left in the nation that knew how to do lath and plaster walls. They were in big demand restoring old houses.

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Will Power said:
While we don't need to get bogged down in a health debate, my concerns about 'toxic possibilities' I still find valid not mythological. It's rather like butter/margarine: I'd never eat the latter out of choice as it's a highly processed, industrial and artificial concoction that demands all sorts of dyes, chemicals and additives. Likewise Canola, which has GMO and herbicide inputs that I don't want to have to trust the manufacturers' reassurances on.
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I want to say it was originally used as lubricant for plane engines.
 
SwissHeritageCo said:
I want to say it was originally used as lubricant for plane engines.
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Rapeseed oil was used as a lubricant in ship engines, rather. So much so that there were shortages during WW2. It was also used as a lubricant for all manner of other machinery and equipment. Canola was developed to lower the erucic acid content in it to make it usable as a food oil as well.
 
canola oil is not my first choice for a cooking oil

www.healthline.com

Is Canola Oil Good for You, or Bad?

Many people are concerned about canola oil's health effects and production methods. This article tells you whether canola oil is healthy.
www.healthline.com www.healthline.com

but for axe and knife handles and any wood i take outside gets several coats of non-toxic Tried & True Danish Oil

www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com

Danish Oil - Tried & True

Danish Oil wood finish is safe for skin and food contact, 100% linseed oil, solvent free and zero VOC's. Ideal for fast and easy application.
www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com

MSDS here

 
Pure tung oil is a great food safe oil for wood also. It needs a little time (a day or so) to fully dry but it protects the wood well. I use it to finish walnut spoons and bowls I make for use in the kitchen.

Pure tung oil is pure. Don't buy any tung oil "finishes"
 
Elgatodeacero said:
canola oil is not my first choice for a cooking oil

www.healthline.com

Is Canola Oil Good for You, or Bad?

Many people are concerned about canola oil's health effects and production methods. This article tells you whether canola oil is healthy.
www.healthline.com www.healthline.com

but for axe and knife handles and any wood i take outside gets several coats of non-toxic Tried & True Danish Oil

www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com

Danish Oil - Tried & True

Danish Oil wood finish is safe for skin and food contact, 100% linseed oil, solvent free and zero VOC's. Ideal for fast and easy application.
www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com

MSDS here

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That's the same stuff I use. It's also great for making the colors on micarta pop. I've even used it on some furniture projects.
 
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