Flint strikers...

Joined
Feb 7, 2010
Messages
434
Since getting my forge back up and running, I've really found that I enjoy forging flint strikers.

A lot of folks go for that C-shaped traditional, but I wanted to go a different direction. One thing I've noticed with all the photos here on the Blade Forums is that a lot of people are attaching ferro rods to their sheaths. This got me to thinking --> why can't you do the same thing with a striker?

With the more traditional style of strikers, you're really limited in how you carry them because they are, generally, rather large and ugly. Having been large and ugly my whole life, I kinda thought that wasn't a good direction to go, so I started experimenting with smaller strikers that had, I think, more flair and style than you typically see.

I forge organically and don't follow any patterns. Some times, I start with a bit of oddly-shaped scrap that was cut of of something else. Other times I just go with the flow and shape the steel how it wants to be shaped. The goal is to come up with something that's small and attractive, but big enough to get your mitts on without running your fingers into the flint's edge. Something you could wear as a pendant, fasten to a knife sheath, make into a zipper pull.... and not be embarrassed to do it. And it's got to throw a good spark.

I mostly use 1080 for them and have found that a thin edge works far better than some thick contraption because you get more "umph" over less surface area.

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What kind of flint strikers are you using?

Anyone had any success striking sparks with obsidian? Had a fella tell me that it works, but I haven't been able to get a single spark from the stuff.

I'll have to order some flint in the near future because I'm about out of the stuff. Any good suppliers of chert, chalcedony, flint, etc?
 
A piece of file that I cleaned up the edges on. :o

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When I decided to take on making a kit and char cloth I did it all on the cheap. All free stuff that I had lying around. The piece of file worked so I never replaced it.

I do like your designs. Especially the one in the first photo. :thumbup: Nicely done.
 
Its summer time, google knapp ins in your area, odds are theres one with in a few hours of you, and you can pick up debitage for strikers.

Obsidian works but not as well as good hard/tuff flint, nice obsidian doesnt work as well as bad obsidian for strikers.
Coastal plains, zeleski, cashokton work well, riolite (not sure about spelling) is in NC and works well, for strikers, a bit tuff for me, for knapping.
Good luck

Flint ridge knapp in is coming up first part of sept.
 
This is the style I prefer, it provides a guard from cutting yourself on the flint and also provides enough surface area to make striking easier.
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This is the style I prefer....

I've found that you need about 2 inches of face to get good sparks every strike. The longer strikers I've made in the past generally have a lot of face that isn't hit by the flint, or flexes away from the stone as you move through the strike.

Not to say that I don't make the occasional steel in a more traditional design, though. This one has a face that's about 2.25" long, iirc, and gives you plenty of meat to hold onto without getting up close and personal with the sharp edge of the flint.

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And just to get a little freaky with things....

I had a guy ask me to make him a Mjolnir striker with some runes cut into it. I forget what the runes are from, but it was a fun project that pushed my boundaries. Much learning occurred! :D

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I knew I recognized some of those strikers. I have been looking to buy one of your dog tag strikers for awhile now, maybe next paycheck.
 
I'm currently trying to strike a flint against the steel like this guys does:

[video=youtube;pmTssR5csdg]https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=33&v=pmTssR5csdg[/video]

Two things I've noted in this video ---

1) My body/brain connection just doesn't allow me to strike the steel with the flint. I've tried this a dozen or so times already, and I can't seem to make it work. It certainly looks like it would be a great way to direct the flow of the sparks, so I'm going to keep practicing.

2) That is an amazing shower of sparks he's getting. I have no idea what alloy of steel he's using, or how he heat treated the steel, but it certainly works incredibly well. I'd be jealous, but I have a sneaking suspicion that it works so well for him because he has that fancy accent. ;)


I found a small sewing kit in my pile o' stuff stuck in a drawer. It's got all your typical sewing stuff, but I really like the metal box it came in. The bottom of the box even has a small mirror glued to it. So.... I dumped out all the sewing stuff and will spend tomorrow trying to forge a striker that will fit the box.

The box is small, only about 2.25"x 1.5" and just about .375" of depth on the inside. It's going to be a challenge to get a striker, char and a piece of flint in there, but I think I can do it. Maybe even include a small candle.

Looked up that Neolithics.com place and they've certainly got me curious. Now I just need to find out what the difference is between their "English Flint" and "Texas Flint". They specifically mention that the English flint is for fire strikers, something they don't note for any of their other flints and cherts. Makes me wonder if the sparks the guy is getting in that video is because he has some of that special English flint?!?!
 
I'm currently trying to strike a flint against the steel like this guys does:

[video=youtube;pmTssR5csdg]https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=33&v=pmTssR5csdg[/video]

Two things I've noted in this video ---

1) My body/brain connection just doesn't allow me to strike the steel with the flint. I've tried this a dozen or so times already, and I can't seem to make it work. It certainly looks like it would be a great way to direct the flow of the sparks, so I'm going to keep practicing.

2) That is an amazing shower of sparks he's getting. I have no idea what alloy of steel he's using, or how he heat treated the steel, but it certainly works incredibly well. I'd be jealous, but I have a sneaking suspicion that it works so well for him because he has that fancy accent. ;)


I found a small sewing kit in my pile o' stuff stuck in a drawer. It's got all your typical sewing stuff, but I really like the metal box it came in. The bottom of the box even has a small mirror glued to it. So.... I dumped out all the sewing stuff and will spend tomorrow trying to forge a striker that will fit the box.

The box is small, only about 2.25"x 1.5" and just about .375" of depth on the inside. It's going to be a challenge to get a striker, char and a piece of flint in there, but I think I can do it. Maybe even include a small candle.

Looked up that Neolithics.com place and they've certainly got me curious. Now I just need to find out what the difference is between their "English Flint" and "Texas Flint". They specifically mention that the English flint is for fire strikers, something they don't note for any of their other flints and cherts. Makes me wonder if the sparks the guy is getting in that video is because he has some of that special English flint?!?!

Hadnt looked at ratzets sight befor, had to see what you were talking about, the english flint thing, my guess is he has a bunch of flakes that are big enough for points(arrow heads) and strikers.
English flint, if you beleave them its the only true flint and we have chert and chalcidney it is nice for strikers, its what most gun flints are made of but it doesnt work any better than zalesky or coastal.
He'll be at ridge this year along with a 100 other people selling flint, il be there, how many strikers you need?
 
Got another flint striker made this evening. I stayed with the Cornucopia style, but added a bit more scroll to the end piece. It's a bit larger than I usually make, but that just gives it more meat to hold on to. The good news is that it fits nicely into the small sewing kit tin I found, so I just might add it to that and call it a day.

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About 2.5" of striking face, and plenty of room to keep your fingers clear of the flint's edge.

I'll take some photos of the sewing kit I found so you can see just how great it is once you get rid of all the silly sewing supplies!
 
I'm not a fan of ferro rods and have never used one for making a fire. You can imagine, then, that I was a bit off my game when a fellow asked me to make him a ferro scraper gadget.

His only request was that it have the Star Trek engineering symbol on it because he's an engineer and a huge Star Trek fan.

Well, how could I resist?????

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I cut it out of an old saw blade so it would be thin, but tough. No heat treatment to it because I didn't think it would need it to be a decent scraper.

It almost didn't happen because the guy admitted that he puts Voyager in front of Enterprise and we all know that Voyager was a travesty beyond measure and should never be mentioned. While Scott Bakula's attempt wasn't very stellar (ha!) it was still orders of magnitude better than anything Voyager could do.
 
I'm afraid I'm going to have to side with the other guy. I liked Voyager.

:thumbup: Nice work on the scraper (even if you don't like Voyager :p).
 
I ordered from Neolithics for the first time last month. They are quick and easy to deal with and they supply some top quality flint for use with flint and steel. I can post some pictures up tomorrow of what they sent me.
 
Picked this up for a very few bucks at a gunshow sometime the last ten years or so.

Thought of have a neck pouch made for it.

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I'm no Viking so still prefer a ferrocerium rod.
 
Obviously I am not VaughT so please excuse my butting in. If you are asking what could be used in a steel on steel situation, then I do know that carbide steel works as the flint/rock portion of the equation. It can be used with high carbon steel or iron pyrites.

If you are looking for steels that can be struck by rocks, then 1060-1095, O1, O2, W1, W2 & L6 have worked for me. Hard to beat 1095 for a striker, though L6 seems to sometimes while both O1 and W2 are not far behind. The spine of a carbon steel Mora as it comes from the factory is the best of the more than a dozen knives that I have used. Especially the Companion for some reason. However, when the spine is filed down to make a 90° spine, it then sparks poorly. Since I use the spines of my knives constantly for fleshing hides, prepping fibers to make cordage, smoothing handles, wood scrapings for fire, etc, etc I leave a few inches close to the tip for use with flint.

The steel in some items that have worked for me are unknown to me so there are probably more steels that work. The key is having a hardness from 57-63HRC, with 59HRC being the sweet spot in my experience. Too soft and sparks are few, weak or not at all. Too hard and the rock breaks before you've ignited your tinder. Interestingly some stainless steels will produce sparks with flint the rock. However the sparks are so few and weak that they not worth pursuing as a viable source of sparks for starting fires. Bet it could be done though.

Improvised strikers that have worked for me include: shovels, chisels, screwdrivers, Olfa blades, razor knife blades, fish hooks, putty knives and of course knives, machetes, saw blades, axes and files.

For the purpose of fire, "flint" is any of hundreds of types of high quartz content rocks. Thus any rock in any part of the Quartz->Chalcedony->Chert->Flint family of rocks will work. Quartz, granite, some sandstones, agate, onyx, Burlington chert, Rootbeer flint, etc, etc will work. One way to tell if an unknown rock has quartz in its compositon is to strike or scrape it against a rock that is known to have a high quartz content in a dark area.

If they both posess enough quartz you will witness triboluminescence, which is faint electrical sparks. These sparks can be blue, yellow, orange, red, etc. No, these sparks will not ignite any tinder. Indeed, most are only inside the rocks. The other ways to tell if a rock is a good candidate for use as the flint in F&S are: conchoidal fractures, glossy, glassy, shiny, hard. Rocks that are too soft to use will usually leave a fine white powder when smashed together.

While any properly charred plants or fungi will catch a spark from a ferrocerium rod, aka ferro, not all will catch the sparks from F&S.

While most "raw", that is to say uncharred, plants and fungi will catch the sparks from a ferro, very few will catch the sparks from F&S. There are more than a dozen Natural Uncharred Tinders, aka NUTS, in the Upper MidWest that will catch the sparks from F&S in their uncharred state. Some can be used as found though most need some drying first. As little as a half hour in strong sun can be enough.

This puts Percussion Fire (F&S) up there with Friction Fire as capable of starting a "First Fire". In other words, if you have a suitable piece of steel, everything else can be gathered on that hike and used that day to start a fire. In a long term scenario we then prep materials by drying or charring them (with or without a tin) with that first fire so all successive fires can be made more easily.

While some fresh, green, wet plants or fungi will catch the sparks from a ferro, none will catch the sparks from F&S. Though chaga and amadou come pretty close!!


Hope that answers some questions about F&S and helps people understand how robust and useful F&S is in the hands of a knowledgeable and skilled practitioner. Everyone can do everything above and more with practice.
 
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