Foredom Tool-which model?

Gburgs

Gburgs

Joined
Nov 22, 2014
Messages
202
Do any of you have experience with the Foredom tool? I'm looking to upgrade from my dremel 8220. Just doesn't have the RPMs to get the job done on titanium mods, and I don't have a full scale grinder yet. Is the base model sufficient or should I go for the TX with the 1/3 HP motor?
 
I have the 2230 Jewelers Kit with the 1/6 HP SR series motor.

I'm incredibly happy with it and don't feel the need for the TX increase in power. Yet, I don't do deep, heavy grinding of metals with it either. I'm a firm believer in buying the best tool that you can afford, but I couldn't afford the TX series at the time. I have no regrets though. A Foredom is much superior to a Dremel in my opinion.

Mike L.
 
Yes, the SR is a good system. The doubled power of the TX is nice if you do a lot of grinding and shaping.

As logem said, you will wonder why you waited so long once you start using a flex shaft with a foot control.
 
I have the basic SR model and couldn't be happier with it. I do not use it for major stock removal or heavy cutting. That's simply not what it's designed for.

I do major steel removal on my belt grinder, and use the SR mostly for clean-up, smoothing/polishing of hard-to-reach areas like finger-grooves and plunges, and basic handle-shaping. I also use it with cut-off discs to cut scales and liners from sheets of G-10, micarta, thin metals, cutting metal tubing, etc.

Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
As logem said, you will wonder why you waited so long once you start using a flex shaft with a foot control.
Click to expand...

:thumbup:

I will add this... the only problem I've had with my Foredom is, the brass set-screw that holds the flex shaft fitting to the shaft coming out of the motor broke clean off, after hundreds of hours of use. That rendered the entire machine useless and shut it down... until I ordered a package of 100 steel set screws in the right size... which cost me about $10. ;)
 
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What handpiece do you guys like for the foredom? You want the collets and not the drill style chuck correct?

If you can afford it I imagine the TX would be the way to go, especially grinding on titanium and its only about 50$ bucks more depending on where you buy it.
 
I use a quick-change handpiece (which only take 3/32 shafted accessories) and a #30 jacobs chuck model hand-piece. A foredom flex-shaft has been my right hand for 40 years. I keep a spare shaft and housing, along with brushes, as the problems I have had with my flex-shafts always occur late at night.:grumpy: As long as you follow the maintenance schedule, everything should last for a VERY long time.
 
I have a rack of handpieces, but us the standard H30 for 99% of all tasks. It holds any size burr or drill you would need in a handpiece. For some tasks, I use an H20, which is a quick-change handpiece that takes 3/32 bits. Both are beefy enough to take some abuse, and comfortable in the hand.

What I would recommend as even more important than the choice of handpiece is the choice of cutting bits and burrs. Get carbide whenever possible. The price may seem high, but they last almost forever with proper use. The cheap "Hobby burrs" are just a waste of money. Busch and similar burrs are worth the price. Lastly, trying to make a dull bit do work is like trying to make a dull drill bit drill a hole. It won't work better by pushing harder, and it will harden the steel. When a burr gets worn......change it and throw the worn on away.
 
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