Free spinning pivot nut

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Jan 18, 2011
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I have a LNIB Kershaw Echelon that is starting to show a little rust through the natural G-10 handle. It's the areas where normal cleaning can't reach. I tried to take it apart but the pivot screw just spins with the nut. Lock tight will stain the g-10. I'm nervous about the mess superglue might leave behind. The rubber band trick won't work. I wonder if Kershaw would break it loose, and send it back. I am out of ideas. Any assistance would be appreciated. Thanks.

ke1880$03-kershaw-echelon-ke1880-d3.jpg


i010001_1462930783.jpg
 
I have a LNIB Kershaw Echelon that is starting to show a little rust through the natural G-10 handle. It's the areas where normal cleaning can't reach. I tried to take it apart but the pivot screw just spins with the nut. Lock tight will stain the g-10. I'm nervous about the mess superglue might leave behind. The rubber band trick won't work. I wonder if Kershaw would break it loose, and send it back. I am out of ideas. Any assistance would be appreciated. Thanks.

ke1880$03-kershaw-echelon-ke1880-d3.jpg


i010001_1462930783.jpg
You can try taking the body screws out and gently lifting the clip side scale scale , maybe use a wood shim. I stress the gently part. This will put side pressure on the spinning pivot and will sometimes lock it in enough to break it loose.
If the pivot has loctite, it would be best to soften it up with heat first. I use a soldering gun, touching the tip to the screw head for 5-10 sec. Have your tools ready to go or it will cool down and not work as intended.
 
That one kind of looks like it shouldn't free spin. They should have made that other side in the octagon shape. It looks like it almost is already...
Anyways, you can try putting some force to the side of the blade (when it's opened) in hopes of seizing the pivot and you can try again with the screwdriver.
Be careful and tape up the edge.
Maybe put the blade in the vice with some cushioning then start bending the handle and unscrewing it.
 
The cutout in the G-10 used to be octagon shaped. :(
Is there a general rule on whether the knife should be open or closed when adjusting or disassembling? I think I have seen both on youtube.
 
The cutout in the G-10 used to be octagon shaped. :(
Is there a general rule on whether the knife should be open or closed when adjusting or disassembling? I think I have seen both on youtube.

The blade is under tension closed, so when I take one apart, I open it at least enough to release the tension... (usually just open all the way).
 
You can open the knife and put some sideways load on the blade before trying to open. This should put enough force on the pivot to stop it turning. Thank Nick Shabazz for the idea if it works for you.

P.S. Don't put too much pressure on the tip or it may bend or break. .
 
You can open the knife and put some sideways load on the blade before trying to open. This should put enough force on the pivot to stop it turning. Thank Nick Shabazz for the idea if it works for you.

P.S. Don't put too much pressure on the tip or it may bend or break. .

This is how I've done it in the past.
 
You can open the knife and put some sideways load on the blade before trying to open. This should put enough force on the pivot to stop it turning. Thank Nick Shabazz for the idea if it works for you.

P.S. Don't put too much pressure on the tip or it may bend or break. .

I had to do this for my Bareknuckle, as the nut shaped hole on the other side is slightly too big to hold the nut shaped part of the pivot. Opened her up, put some pressure on the blade, came apart no problem. Don't need a whole lot, and I did no damage to the blade or aluminum handles.

I don't understand how they can mess a few knives up when my 0770 and natrix work fine, but my Bareknuckle spins. Lol
 
You need a C-clamp with a forked anvil, or you could drill a hole in the anvil large enough for the screw to fit through. Probably have to make it yourself. The pad on the moving jaw would need a chunk of rubber band under it.
 
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