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This message appeared recently on alt.crafts.blacksmithing
Interesting to compare to what we know of the kami's technique.
"Douglas Neukam" <dneukam@rtccom.net> moved upon the face of the 'Net and spake thusly:
> After hardening you must temper the steel to
> make it less hard,if you don't the knife will break.
I was reading a book last night on Australian traditional bush crafts,
and in a section on blacksmithing, they related this traditional
quick-and-dirty method for tempering axe heads and crowbars.
Not really applicable to knives, as there's not enough mass behind the
blade.
* Head the item to red
* Quench the edge and remove from the water, scrape the blade with a
file to remove scale and reveal the steel
* Hold the (still very hot) axe head above the water, and watch the
colours of the filed steel. When you see the blue/yellow colour
move down the piece to the edge, quench the entire thing.
This is basically using the residual heat in the non-blade portion
of the metal to do the tempering, rather than re-heating it.
--cjb "
Interesting to compare to what we know of the kami's technique.
"Douglas Neukam" <dneukam@rtccom.net> moved upon the face of the 'Net and spake thusly:
> After hardening you must temper the steel to
> make it less hard,if you don't the knife will break.
I was reading a book last night on Australian traditional bush crafts,
and in a section on blacksmithing, they related this traditional
quick-and-dirty method for tempering axe heads and crowbars.
Not really applicable to knives, as there's not enough mass behind the
blade.
* Head the item to red
* Quench the edge and remove from the water, scrape the blade with a
file to remove scale and reveal the steel
* Hold the (still very hot) axe head above the water, and watch the
colours of the filed steel. When you see the blue/yellow colour
move down the piece to the edge, quench the entire thing.
This is basically using the residual heat in the non-blade portion
of the metal to do the tempering, rather than re-heating it.
--cjb "