-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Frosts Mora Knife???
- Thread starter RickJ
- Start date
YES!
Have them or the clipits stashed in every vehicle, and every hunting, fishing or Camping kit I own. Also given a number away to family and friends.
I've always preferred the carbon steel blade, but have several in stainless. Truth to tell, except for rust or discoloration, both blades seem to sharpen and hold an edge about the same.
Hard to tell the difference in use.
IMO the best deal going in the knife world.
Well, them and Opinel, but I don't care for folders.
Have them or the clipits stashed in every vehicle, and every hunting, fishing or Camping kit I own. Also given a number away to family and friends.
I've always preferred the carbon steel blade, but have several in stainless. Truth to tell, except for rust or discoloration, both blades seem to sharpen and hold an edge about the same.
Hard to tell the difference in use.
IMO the best deal going in the knife world.
Well, them and Opinel, but I don't care for folders.
Let's not be misleading here. I think they're now $9. 
They are a great buy, and very easy to sharpen due to the wide bevel. However, they are cheaply made (surprise, surprise), and due to the holes in the handle, I wouldn't be surprised if they rust out in a few years to water intrusion. But hey, for that price, you can always spring for another one. I tend to buy them in batches and give them as presents. I've got some great discoloration on my kitchen Mora, but I like a nice patina.
As an aside, I stole some ideas from Cody Lundin. The plastic sheath with the hole in the bottom is great for helping start fires (just blow through it), and I duct taped a butane lighter upside down to the sheath at the bottom, so to use the lighter, I just have to hold the whole works upside down and "flick it". Then I put some paracord through the sheath for neck carry,and put a Photon II and Whistle on it.
Not too bad considering how light of a package it is. Makes great survival presents!
They are a great buy, and very easy to sharpen due to the wide bevel. However, they are cheaply made (surprise, surprise), and due to the holes in the handle, I wouldn't be surprised if they rust out in a few years to water intrusion. But hey, for that price, you can always spring for another one. I tend to buy them in batches and give them as presents. I've got some great discoloration on my kitchen Mora, but I like a nice patina.
As an aside, I stole some ideas from Cody Lundin. The plastic sheath with the hole in the bottom is great for helping start fires (just blow through it), and I duct taped a butane lighter upside down to the sheath at the bottom, so to use the lighter, I just have to hold the whole works upside down and "flick it". Then I put some paracord through the sheath for neck carry,and put a Photon II and Whistle on it.
Not too bad considering how light of a package it is. Makes great survival presents!
sodak said:Let's not be misleading here. I think they're now $9.
They are a great buy, and very easy to sharpen due to the wide bevel. However, they are cheaply made (surprise, surprise), and due to the holes in the handle, I wouldn't be surprised if they rust out in a few years to water intrusion. But hey, for that price, you can always spring for another one. I tend to buy them in batches and give them as presents. I've got some great discoloration on my kitchen Mora, but I like a nice patina.
Whenever you get a new one, pour a little wd-40, or clp into the gap between the blade and the handle. Let it dry a day or so.
Then fill the gaps at the blade and handle junction with epoxy (5 minute epoxy is ok).
Do the same to the tang and handle joint.
When it dries, take sandpaper or steel wool and remove all or most of the red paint from the handle.
Rub a small amount of boiled linseed oil into the wood, once a day for a week, once a week for a month, and once a month for a year, then once a year forever. (or any other oil finish you prefer)
You now have knife that wont rust out from under the handle, with no crevices to catch food or meat and breed bacteria, and a handle that won't dry out and crack.
if you're using Carbon Steel wipe the blade down with Mineral oil (food grade from the pharmacy) and it won't contaminate your food and the blade won't corrode.
Even better, get one with a stainless blade and do the same.
No noticeable difference in use between the Stainless and the Carbon, both sharpen and hold an edge about the same.
They're cheap because the Swedes put everything into the blade, they figure you'll re-handle it and make your own sheath if it matters to you.
That plastic sheath makes a handy liner for a leather sheath.
If you need a step up, in quality and appearence, take a long look at the Helle knives from Norway. their laminated stainless blades are a real eye opener for people who think stainless is "no good for real knives", very reasonable prices for what you get. You get a lot.
Regards,
Gary
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2003
- Messages
- 284
I think they're some of the best and cheapest knives going. They are not for prying, but will outcut most otherknives due to the extremely small edge angle. They are easy to sharpen, good for almost any task, and very, very cheap!
I got two of them from Swedishknives.com, I went out out to the woods behind my place and did some cutting to try one of the Mora Knives and my new Laplander Saw. I love both of them and they are both cheap. I read somewhere on bladeforums that BOSS has their students use Mora Knives or do they just suggest they use them? If anyone knows about Mora knives at BOSS, Please fill me in on it!
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2000
- Messages
- 684
I haven't tried the wood handled ones yet, but I have a stainless rubber handled one and a carbon SWAK version. Both pretty much are excellent knives, especially for the money. I sand down the stamping marks on the spines of the blades to improve the appearance a bit, though.
Helle knives rule! Very nice, very sharp, handles fit like they were meant to be!
Helle knives rule! Very nice, very sharp, handles fit like they were meant to be!
I am with Ivan
I have an 27! year old red handled laminated blade one but with a single guard.I don't see these around, think the guard makes the knife almost perfect. Also have some Craftsmen and a neat little double guarded ( like a dagger) plastic handled one with a narrower chord single edge blade. I've only seen these for sale once. Gather there are all kinds out there... love the prices, but some of the sheath's belt loops bear watching over time..
cheers
ps. anyone favor the original mora style? I worked in a slaughter house for a few years and I think a guard is mandatory for hard use..many of the kill floor knives were Frosts with molded plastic guarded handles..off to count my old stitches..
I have an 27! year old red handled laminated blade one but with a single guard.I don't see these around, think the guard makes the knife almost perfect. Also have some Craftsmen and a neat little double guarded ( like a dagger) plastic handled one with a narrower chord single edge blade. I've only seen these for sale once. Gather there are all kinds out there... love the prices, but some of the sheath's belt loops bear watching over time..
cheers
ps. anyone favor the original mora style? I worked in a slaughter house for a few years and I think a guard is mandatory for hard use..many of the kill floor knives were Frosts with molded plastic guarded handles..off to count my old stitches..
Just a note, to maybe save some confusion:
There are two manufacturers of "Mora" knives.Both manufactured in Mora, Sweden.
Like Victorinix and Wenger, both are "original" Mora knives.
The two companies are Frosts and Erikksson.
Both have extensinve lines of similar knives.
In the red handle versions, the Frost is a fairly bright red, and the Erikkssons's product is more muted, almost a maroon color.
Frost seems to be the easiest to find in the U.S.
Frost is the maufacturer of the "Swedish Army" knives and the " Clippit's" sometimes called "Clippers".
Both companies make (or made) a red plastic handled version with a slight molded in guard, at prices just a few dollare more then the wooden handled ones.
Ask to borrow a knife anywhere in Scandanavia, and the odds are overwhelming that you will be handed a red, plastic handled Mora knife.
Regards,
Gary
There are two manufacturers of "Mora" knives.Both manufactured in Mora, Sweden.
Like Victorinix and Wenger, both are "original" Mora knives.
The two companies are Frosts and Erikksson.
Both have extensinve lines of similar knives.
In the red handle versions, the Frost is a fairly bright red, and the Erikkssons's product is more muted, almost a maroon color.
Frost seems to be the easiest to find in the U.S.
Frost is the maufacturer of the "Swedish Army" knives and the " Clippit's" sometimes called "Clippers".
Both companies make (or made) a red plastic handled version with a slight molded in guard, at prices just a few dollare more then the wooden handled ones.
Ask to borrow a knife anywhere in Scandanavia, and the odds are overwhelming that you will be handed a red, plastic handled Mora knife.
Regards,
Gary
- Joined
- Jul 12, 2002
- Messages
- 3,291
If I remember right, Cody recommended a full tang Mora. Mr. Mears improved on the price some too I think.
I havn't used the red handled version, but if the blade is anything like the SwAK, it's a good knife. I managed to baton my M2K through some dry 2"-3" diameter limbs without damaging the knife at all. I figured I'd break it, but it came through without a hitch and I only had to strop it to bring it back. Yep, I like them Mora knives.
I havn't used the red handled version, but if the blade is anything like the SwAK, it's a good knife. I managed to baton my M2K through some dry 2"-3" diameter limbs without damaging the knife at all. I figured I'd break it, but it came through without a hitch and I only had to strop it to bring it back. Yep, I like them Mora knives.
For all the replys, I can't believe how good these litle knives are and how cheap they are. When I got the knives I did the shave the hair on my leg test and it was razor sharp and left my leg as smooth as a babys bottom. One of these will be in my Kit when I go into the wilds.
Rickj,
A good starting place is Ragnar, pictures and a description and usually a little history at;
www.ragweedforge.com
Ragnar is a good guy to do business with, and he has a good selection of the various Scandanavian knives.
If something catches your eye you can buy from him, or do a google search on the mfr. and model. there are several potential sources for each mfr.
While you're there be sure to check out the Norwegian and Finnish knives also.
Best Wishes.
A good starting place is Ragnar, pictures and a description and usually a little history at;
www.ragweedforge.com
Ragnar is a good guy to do business with, and he has a good selection of the various Scandanavian knives.
If something catches your eye you can buy from him, or do a google search on the mfr. and model. there are several potential sources for each mfr.
While you're there be sure to check out the Norwegian and Finnish knives also.
Best Wishes.
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2003
- Messages
- 494
Rick,
Another vote for www.ragweedforge.com. Ragnar indeed is a great guy to deal with. His prices are very good, and he knows how to post parcels reliably I've got most of my Moras from him.
What makes KJ Erikssons better than Frost's?
They're not.
I was not clear, here, and I'm sorry about it because Frost's is a great company, making great knives, and the guys and the plant are working hard to satisfy customers.
For example I've got a #780 clipper from Frost's that's incredible. I was just ranting against Frost's laminated steel for my own heavy duty use/abuse. This laminated steel is basically a micron-thick layer of 53+ RC steel sandwiched between two layers of very, very soft steel. A lateral stress won't ever break them. They will just bend... and stay bent.
Unless you're hitting only straight grained wood, Frost's laminated steel can't be used for batoning, for example. You'll ruin your blade in no time. But hey, I'm using my Frost's #780 clipper to baton-cut pretty much anything without damage (the blade being made from tougher Frost's triflex, and not laminated carbon steel).
What I'm saying is this: if you want a red handled Mora for survival, pick a KJ Eriksson regular carbon steel, not anything laminated. Just my opinion of course.
Cheers,
David
Another vote for www.ragweedforge.com. Ragnar indeed is a great guy to deal with. His prices are very good, and he knows how to post parcels reliably
I've got most of my Moras from him.What makes KJ Erikssons better than Frost's?
They're not.
I was not clear, here, and I'm sorry about it because Frost's is a great company, making great knives, and the guys and the plant are working hard to satisfy customers.
For example I've got a #780 clipper from Frost's that's incredible. I was just ranting against Frost's laminated steel for my own heavy duty use/abuse. This laminated steel is basically a micron-thick layer of 53+ RC steel sandwiched between two layers of very, very soft steel. A lateral stress won't ever break them. They will just bend... and stay bent.
Unless you're hitting only straight grained wood, Frost's laminated steel can't be used for batoning, for example. You'll ruin your blade in no time. But hey, I'm using my Frost's #780 clipper to baton-cut pretty much anything without damage (the blade being made from tougher Frost's triflex, and not laminated carbon steel).
What I'm saying is this: if you want a red handled Mora for survival, pick a KJ Eriksson regular carbon steel, not anything laminated. Just my opinion of course.
Cheers,
David
- Joined
- Aug 11, 1999
- Messages
- 1,111
This is probably a lame, wussy, etc., etc. question 
... BUT, is there any cheap, reliable alternative to the cheap, unreliable plastic sheaths that come with the plastic or rubber-handled Frosts knives? I agree with Moine, the #680 and #780 Triflex clippers are great working knives, just about the best bang-for-the-buck one can get in a fixed blade -- but their sheaths really suck. (Rattle, rattle, plunk: I lost a rubber-handled #840 Clipper this summer that way.)
Yeah, yeah, I know, it's too much to reasonably expect a decent sheath with a ~$10 knife. But have any of you found any good, cheap alternatives?
Glen
... BUT, is there any cheap, reliable alternative to the cheap, unreliable plastic sheaths that come with the plastic or rubber-handled Frosts knives? I agree with Moine, the #680 and #780 Triflex clippers are great working knives, just about the best bang-for-the-buck one can get in a fixed blade -- but their sheaths really suck. (Rattle, rattle, plunk: I lost a rubber-handled #840 Clipper this summer that way.)Yeah, yeah, I know, it's too much to reasonably expect a decent sheath with a ~$10 knife. But have any of you found any good, cheap alternatives?
Glen