G10 + liner? Or solid g10 ... is there a realistic difference?

Heartland_edc

Heartland_edc

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May 4, 2015
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I want to start off by saying that I am in no way, shape, or form trying to flare up an argument about which maker is better etc.

I have never been able to fully accept framelock knives with one full side being g10/carbon fiber. I have never used a folder like this hard enough to truly know whether or not this is a disadvantage vs a framelock with a liner under the g10 side. Im mainly referring to framelocks that use bladestops that contact both scales on lock up. I know that when normal downward force is applied, the bladestop pressing against the ti side will hold everything together without damage, because its obviously harder than the g10/carbon fiber. So the only real percieved/hypothetical disadvantage (I think) would be if a blade with stops was used to pry against the g10 side. I would assume this would warp or break g10/carbon fiber with enough force. Obviously, most of us wont use a knife in this manner, but wouldn't a framelock with a liner under the g10 side be more resistant to this type of abuse? I wont name any particular makers, but there are A LOT of them making very expensive "hard use" folders with a solid g10/carbon fiber side. Most people swear they're tough as nails, but i'm not sure there are any real tests that have been performed to prove this would'nt be an issue. Maybe this is a dead horse topic. If so, I apologize. I've just always been curious about what other people think. I would really like to own a few of these but the solid g10 sides have always bugged me. Thoughts?
 
Depends on the thickness and quality of the G10/Carbon fiber. I prefer the liners because I like a heavy feeling folder.
 
A Difference? Realistically, probably not. It really depends upon the quality of the knife.
 
Linerless for me, if I can.
The Native 5 Lightweight is a perfect folder.
rolf
 
Lycosa said:
Linerless for me, if I can.
The Native 5 Lightweight is a perfect folder.
rolf
Click to expand...

See now here I can kind of agree. The blade engages the steel on the lock back. So side to side force would tilt primarily against that surface, and not so much the pivot (I think) but then again, you probably wouldnt be using a native 5 for pry tasks. Wish I knew more about the basics of knifemaking
 
I would comment that all things must be considered ...

As example, I have received a number of knives where liners and or scales (previously metal scales and/or liners) had been "upgraded" by owners (installed micarta, G10, CF replacements). Knives I had purchased, traded for, or were in for sharpening and/or some other type of modification.

1. I have seen a number of fastener related issues (fasteners and/or insert related problems).
EDIT: meaning no inserts were used.
2. I have seen a number of blade-stop-pin related issues (stop-pin hole becomes oval or egg-shaped, initially affecting the lock-bar position and or lock-up).

The stop-pin related issue is typically with knife-flickers that continuously slam the blade into the stop-pin without any regard. Seems these get traded on forums fairly easily.

Now take a knife without a stop-pin, you remove that as a weak point potential (early gen FRN Endura/Delica example). In general, it makes sense from my experiences that I knife with metal liners or scales would be stronger and longer lasting than one made from softer or more brittle construction.

So, come full circle to all things must be considered with regard to how/where materials are selected.
 
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I've used knives with both types of construction and I prefer linerless whenever possible. From everything I've read and experienced in my use, the g10 is plenty strong for the application, if you manage to damage it you probably would have damaged a liner or other component as well. You can make an argument for fasteners being better off having a liner, but this is mostly mitigated by inserts and such.

For my personal use, lighter the better in pocket knives. If I'm gonna use a knife hard enough that a manix LW/native LW/other linerless knife fails on me because of the lack of liners, I'll probably be using a fixed blade in that situation anyways.
 
Depends on the knife. Cold steel does liner-less G10 handled knives the best in my experience and they are almost bulletproof. I've hammered one of my user Recon 1 knives for years and it's still as tight and solid as the day i got it.
 
I push on linerless plastic Cold Steel Tuff Lite knives pretty hard while carving for hours at a time. The Tuff Lite I use most has literally hundreds of hours of continuously hacking away at wood on it and that thing is still rock solid.

Call me a linerless, lightweight believer.
 
Maybe g10 and carbon fiber are stronger than I originally thought. I might have to pull the trigger and just see for myself. Nice to hear some of you have some hours put in to show legitimate resilience.
 
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