GATCO vs. Lansky

Peregrin said:
From the KME website:

"Infinitely Adjustable Sharpening Angle from 17 to 30
Degrees:

Main frame is engraved with angle scale in single
degree increments. Loosen thumb nut to raise
or lower the bearing assembly to any desired
sharpening angle."

I really like the looks of the KME, so much so that I just ordered one. It appears to address all the things I don't like about the Lansky. I guess I'll find out now.
Click to expand...

It is infinitely adjustable. There is just no stop to tell you if you are at 20° or 25°. You have to eyeball the scale.

Please do a review when you get it. I am sure you will be happy. I almost immediately ordered the two finer hones for the GATCO. Then a short time later I added the strops to the system.

Like I said in use the rod guided systems are mor similar than disimilar.
 
While the EdgePro does seem to be the best, it is more than I want to spend. If/when I do get one I will most likely get the top level $300-$500 version, and leave it set-up in the garage/workshop.

For now it looks like I will get the GATCO Diamond set from Cabelas with the free mount grip. I like the fact that you can use any stones that size.

In the future I will be buying a EdgePro, or some nice stones to hand sharpen with.

Thanks for all the help and replies!
 
One more thing.........
Should I get the Diamond version or the regular stones in the GATCO kit? And why?
 
It's been my experience that you probably don't need the diamond for the 154CM or most kitchen knives. If you are going to be re beveling D2 or S30V, which tends to be harder, you may want to pay a little more and get the diamond.
 
I am going to order the GATCO sharpener today. I woud like to know if I should soend the extra $$$ on the Diamond, or just get the regular kit?

Thanks!
 
I have had the Lansky for a little over a year and love it. I replaced the top screw with an actual screw so I can get a tighter hold. I have the one with the stones, but I also got an extra course diamond for reprofiling. I couldn't be happier.

Personally, I operate like this.

I start with whatever grit I need to.
I use a sharpie on my bevel, just to make damn sure something isn't off.
For knives I want a slight microseration on, I'll stop 3 stones in.
For the knives I want very sharp I continue all the way through, getting a bur with each side and stone.
after the last stone I take a piece of 1500 grit sand paper and fold it around the last stone.
Use a bit of water and polish.
Then I move to a strop with the red buffing compound from Sears. I can get a hair popping edge with good steels.

I don't generally use the lansky to touch up though, usually some stropping takes care of that.
 
BostonBull said:
I am going to order the GATCO sharpener today. I woud like to know if I should soend the extra $$$ on the Diamond, or just get the regular kit?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I have the standard kit. It has sharpened every knife I have thrown at it. I purchased one coarse diamond hone. It doesn't seem to do anything that the standard hones will do.

Do the diamonds not dish like the standard stones? The diamonds seem to smooth out and lose some cut to them pretty quickly. The standard stones cut like new every time.
 
Hello all. Rather then start a new thread I figured I would post here. I have the 5 stone Gatco set and the diamond set. I can get my knife sharp, it will cut paper not slice but cut. I can't cut hair with it either. I'm new to sharpening I've tried wet stones but I have no luck I just make them dull I know it's all about the angle.

I've thought about adding the extra fine and ultra fine stones to see if that will help I can get both off ebay for about 20 for both. What would be the best way for me to get shaving sharp, or scary sharp? I mean my knives will cut and do what I need them to do at work, cut wire, open boxes, cut card board, etc. I just wanna get better at this new hobby like a lot of people I know.
 
Last edited:
fanucblade said:
Hello all. Rather then start a new thread I figured I would post here. I have the 5 stone Gatco set and the diamond set. I can get my knife sharp, it will cut paper not slice but cut. I can't cut hair with it either. I'm new to sharpening I've tried wet stones but I have no luck I just make them dull I know it's all about the angle.

I've thought about adding the extra fine and ultra fine stones to see if that will help I can get both off ebay for about 20 for both. What would be the best way for me to get shaving sharp, or scary sharp? I mean my knives will cut and do what I need them to do at work, cut wire, open boxes, cut card board, etc. I just wanna get better at this new hobby like a lot of people I know.
Click to expand...
Hi,
What is the coarsest stone that comes with that 5 stone gatco?
How many passes per side did you use on the first stone?
Or how many minutes?
What knife/steel?

If you cant cut paper or scrape shave some arm hair,
you've stopped grinding too soon,
you've moved past the first stone before it did its job,
before you reached apex or raised a burr
...
so, use permanent marker to see if you're grinding high/low of the edge angle
if you're matching the angle 100-300 strokes per side willl do it to raise a burr
...

FWIW, new threads are same price, free :)
 
I'm not sure of the grit I know its an extra coarse, coarse, medium, and fine and then one for serrated. I can cut paper just not slice it. I used about 50 strokes per stone on both sides. Ill try to do more. Its a small cheap buck pocket knife I'm practicing on.

I tried the marker trick and it was all even wasnt nothing left marker wise unless I miss read the post on this forum aboyt the marker trick. Thank you for the reply I will try it again with more strokes on each side starting with the extra coarse. I'll do 100 each side.

Do I need to buy the other two stones I stated?
 
fanucblade said:
I can cut paper just not slice it. I used about 50 strokes per stone on both sides. Ill try to do more. Its a small cheap buck pocket knife I'm practicing on.
Click to expand...
Hi,
But what does "cut paper just not slice it" mean?
Slicing paper (sawing) is the easier than push cutting (slow chop, no sawing motion).
Can you slice paper after the first stone?
What kind of paper are we talking, cardboard, index cards, printer paper,.... the thicker it is the easier it is to cut ... push or slice

hold up paper with one hand, knife in other, start cutting on edge of paper ?

fanucblade said:
I'm not sure of the grit I know its an extra coarse, coarse, medium, and fine and then one for serrated.
Click to expand...
Ok, so sharpeningsupplies says
  • Extra-Coarse: Black Color, 80 Grit, Sharpens damaged edges and extremely dull blades.
  • Coarse: Yellow Color, 120 Grit, Fast cutting, resharpens dull blades
  • Medium: Green Color, 220 Grit, Refines edges after coarse grits
  • Fine: Red Color, 320 Grit, Produces keen cutting edge
  • Ultimate Finishing: Sky Blue Color, 1200 Grit, Made of 96% alumina ceramic, Provides surgical finish to final cutting edge


fanucblade said:
Do I need to buy the other two stones I stated?
Click to expand...
I would say "no need" for now
maybe
after practice figuring out how to get sharp off the stones you have now
re-evaluate your wants
of give some other guys a chance to chime in with advice :)


Maybe if you want to actually try shaving your face frequently maybe then get the higher grit stones
or if you likes wood whittling ... things that commonly use higher grits

but it doesn't take high grits to get high sharpness and do tricks,
jigs like gatco help with that a lot


minimum-grit-or-micron-hair-splitting.1493089
does the edge have to be mirrored to be in the razor sharp category? Mirror polish not required...
 
Printer paper. I dont use a lot of push or force when cutting. I guess by saying slice I'm using the wrong word. Thank you for all your advice.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top