Gayle Bradley Hard Use

Chris "Anagarika";16327178 said:
Put a Spketch scale on:
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Nice!
 
Chris "Anagarika";16331281 said:
Marthinus,

Thanks! Where's yours? Really like your regrind!

In storage lately. Been carrying my customs for quite a long while now. Will have to carry the GB again when starting work in the shop again. Works as a great aluminum and Ti deburring tool :D Will have to grab a few pics and post them to the thread.
 
Chris "Anagarika";16327475 said:
Thanks.
Luong thinned it down by grinding flat, and then sharpened at a bit higher angle. He graciously let me have it, and I added microbevel (not so micro anymore) that is set following my user hand free edge bevel angle (25-30 inclusive). So now it's sort of thinned convex (free hand wobble convex :D ).

I need patina to reduce pitting by my sweat (bad bad sweat chemistry).

Member Marthinus tried the same flat thinning down and experience chipping (it's on previous page of this thread, IIRC).

How did you do the forced patina out of curiosity?
 
I planned on waiting until the gb2 came back in stock but I found a used gb1 for $90. It was too good to pass up. Hard use coming soon!


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Received the gb1 today. There's a couple things that really stick out.
1) lockup is rock solid and I can tell it's made for hard use
2) spydie hole has some sharp edges
3) liner lock is kinda difficult to disengage. My thumb is tore up from opening and closing it about 25 times.

Any tips for sharpening m4 on a sharpmaker? It's printer paper slicing sharp but I want it to get even sharper. From what I've read it can be hard to bring back once it's dull.


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3) liner lock is kinda difficult to disengage. My thumb is tore up from opening and closing it about 25 times.

Haha I've been there. I have one that a previous owner had modified to have better access to the lock and Spydie hole. It's way easier to disengage the lock. However, after playing with my unmodified GB (and abusing my thumb) I finally realized that I was trying push the lock over by jamming the side of my thumb in that small space. I started putting the center of my thumb pad on the lock bar and using slight downward pressure while moving the lock bar to the side. I find that works much better and no longer have any issues unlocking the knife. The modified knife is still more user friendly but I no longer find it as attractive as I did originally.

 
However, after playing with my unmodified GB (and abusing my thumb) I finally realized that I was trying push the lock over by jamming the side of my thumb in that small space. I started putting the center of my thumb pad on the lock bar and using slight downward pressure while moving the lock bar to the side. I find that works much better and no longer have any issues unlocking the knife.

I use the same technique. Works great for me. I had a much harder time disengaging the locks of the Navaja and Positron. And even the GB2 lock was more difficult for me.
 
Haha I've been there. I have one that a previous owner had modified to have better access to the lock and Spydie hole. It's way easier to disengage the lock. However, after playing with my unmodified GB (and abusing my thumb) I finally realized that I was trying push the lock over by jamming the side of my thumb in that small space. I started putting the center of my thumb pad on the lock bar and using slight downward pressure while moving the lock bar to the side. I find that works much better and no longer have any issues unlocking the knife. The modified knife is still more user friendly but I no longer find it as attractive as I did originally.


Ahh that's exactly what I'm doing! Great idea! I will try that. The ledge from the scales to the liner is what's tearing my thumb up.


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Chris "Anagarika";16356459 said:
Liquid antiseptic bath soap. Apparently the antiseptic is somewhat oxidative.

Awesome thank you! Did you take the knife apart or leave it together and just wiped the blade down?
 
Awesome thank you! Did you take the knife apart or leave it together and just wiped the blade down?

Took it apart so I can ensure full clean up afterwards. Coat the pivot, detent hole & tang (lockbar interface) with permanent marker, and cover the whole blade with the soap. Wash it off after, and oil the blade.
I saw some that use hot vinegar that resulted in very uniform darker patina. Maybe some pages back, can't remember.
 
Chris "Anagarika";16376884 said:
Took it apart so I can ensure full clean up afterwards. Coat the pivot, detent hole & tang (lockbar interface) with permanent marker, and cover the whole blade with the soap. Wash it off after, and oil the blade.
I saw some that use hot vinegar that resulted in very uniform darker patina. Maybe some pages back, can't remember.

Yeah I saw that hot vinegar thread and was considering it for sure but I'm a little hesitant to take apart the knife as I haven't ever done so.

Do you blue locktite the screws on reassembly?
 
Yeah I saw that hot vinegar thread and was considering it for sure but I'm a little hesitant to take apart the knife as I haven't ever done so.

Do you blue locktite the screws on reassembly?

No, I don't have any, and I just check them from time to time. GB is one of few knives very easy to reassemble. You can simply put the patina on reachable area, that will give it natural grown look (imperfect). Even mine isn't symmetrical at all. One side is darker and some mixture of grey/brown/blue tone.
 
I have been using this knife a lot since I got it. I've been cutting anything and everything in sight. I've cut a lot of cardboard lately and it just slices right through! I've touched it up a couple times on the sharpmaker.
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Just picked up another one of these off the exchange. Cant wait to have another one.
 
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