Gerber Evo

J

Junior33

Joined
May 31, 2005
Messages
16
Hey everyone, been lurking for quite a while, trying to learn all that I can, but have some info to share so figured I'd post up.

here's what I've learned about the Gerber Evo from using it for about a month or so


The Good: finger flip design is really nice, I used to be a strictly thumb stud type of guy, but this finger flip has somewhat converted me, it's difficult to get the blade completely open, but it swings it out far enough that even the slightest flick of the wrist will snap the blade into it's locked position. The finger flip also DOES do a good job at protecting your finger, I found myself thrusting harder with this knife than I ever did before with a folder. This was partly because I wasn't worried about hurting a finger if the blade slipped or "ran off" the edge of the piece, but mostly it was because the flip prevents your hand from sliding up the knife on impact, which is a damned good way to slice up a couple fingers.

The Bad: altho the actual design of the blade seemed to be good, the metal was pretty ******, relativly easy to sharpen forsure, but I never seemed to be able to get it "razor" sharp. maybe I just don't have the technique, but it's not really relevant, the bigest issue was this blade's tendancy to chip, even chopping kindling was somehow able to chip the blade, bloody remarkable. To boot, it couldn't hold an edge more than a couple days (and I'm not THAT heavy a user, despite what it must seem like)

The Ugly: ok here is the hands down biggest problem I have found with this knife, the pin isn't up to snuff, it strikes me as odd that Gerber bother making Tanto blade folders, given that that blade design is made for an increased puncture strength for the blade (stabbing thru armour) when the pin is this weak. The knife seemed to be well made from the beginning, no blade slop at all, but after just a week or 2 of moderate useage the pin was wearing down or being deformed, there was abit of blade slop. After the month or so I've been using it the blade slop has gotten to a point that I'm not comfortable continuing to use the knife on the levels that I would like to.


maybe I'm just to hard on it, maybe I should be using a fixed blade, not a folder. Possibly, but I'm a martial artist for a long time now (started when I was 5 or so, I'm now 20, have had my 1st degree black since I was 15) and I believe in carrying a pocketknife as both a handy tool, but also as a potential means of self defense. My knife combat instructor (also instructs for Seals) has always told me not to rely on a folder for exactly the reason that this one failed. I figured he was just old fashioned and that the pins have to be stronger than he's letting them on to be. Apparently he won this round, but I'll be trying again forsure.



looking at a BenchMade for my next user, possibly a griptillian, I'm open to suggestions, but concealed carry laws in canada dictate no assisted opening, and a blade length under 4". The Benchmade 940 is also looking promising.


cheers all, feel free to call me n00b or mall ninja!
 
erm, this shouldn't be in traditional, sorry I meant to post it in general, if a mod wants to move it that'd be awesome.
 
No problem.

BTW welcome to BF. I hope you enjoy this place and its people.

Gus
 
Try checking out the CRKT M-16 or M-21 line.. They have the Lawks safety and act as a fixed blade when open.. stay away from the (Z) zytel handle models though.. they have a lesser steel.. than the aluminum handle ones.. as they come in Aus-8 steel..
I also have a CRKT M16-04 and this is my EDC and love it.. also Just bought a CRKT M21-04.. You wont be dissapointed I promise.

or Bench Made but they are alot more $.. But have better blade steel options..

Or Spyderco.. They have been around for a long time also and have lots of great feedback on the quality of there blades..

~Jeff

Edit.. Also BTW welcome to bladeforums.. This place has a wealth of informantion and great people too boot willing to help out..
 
I have been uniquely dissapointed with gerber as of late, and the Evo is a crucial reason why.

If you like the design of the Evo, you should try the much higher quality design that Gerber uh...borrowed.... from CRKT.

I love my M16 (the original knife the Evo emulates). Here are some photos

M16EDC05.jpg


Here's another version, called the M21, also from CRKT

M2105.jpg


They can be had from 3 to 4 inches in many different versions, but those are the two primary versions...for combat purposes, you might look for the Special Forces addition, which creates its own hilt with a unique double flipper design.

M16SF05.jpg


I've used my M16 extensively and stand behind its build quality, including a thorough testing of the lock (which can be found using search).

I would really encourage you to check these out. I love my benchmades also, but I assume you were attracted to the design, so I'd suggest you start with CRKT.
 
yeah, the EVO is a blatant ripoff of the M16 design by kit carson. its a shame you didnt find the original knife first. i posted a thread about this about a week ago.
its sad when a formerly reputable company resorts to shameless design theft for their 'new' product line.
cheers,
-gabriel
 
wow the M16 looks like a really nice knife, the special forces one in particular looks right up my alley.

ya my last gerber (don't remember the model, it was pretty basic tho) served me well, no trouble at all with pin strength or the blade not taking an edge, eventually tho I lost it, pocket clips are an awesome feature.

do CRKT have any dealers in the detroit area?
 
yeah, but you may be better off ordering online - local dealers will charge significantly more because they have a store overhead to run.
new graham is a good place, and im sure others can recommend places as well.
http://www.newgraham.com/

ordinarily i would recommend that you 'try' the knife in your hand before you buy it, but i have never met someone who wasnt impressed with the M16 line. might i suggest looking into the M21 instead, though. all of the M16s are chisel-ground, and it is near impossible to find one with a plain edge (if you dont want serrated) except for the compact (M16-00, -01, -02) versions which are absolutely tiny.

the M21 has a far more useful drop point blade, double grind, and a satin finish as opposed to the bead-blasted finish on the M16s. its also easy to find in plain edge, and the two variations are perfectly sized.

cheers,
-gabriel
 
btw: heres a quick photo i snapped to give you an idea of the size of these knives. this is the M21-04, the larger M21. the large tanto M16 (M16-04, -14) is also this size.
m214jq.jpg


heres a list of the M16/M21 blade sizes/thicknesses/styles and their respective model numbers (i posted this in an earlier M16/M21 thread, and it should remove a lot of the confusion associated with the massive range of models/styles of M16's). the 3.0", etc is the length of the blade only, not the closed knife.
cheers,
-gabriel

there are 3 size categories for the M16s:

M16-00K - COMPACT tanto point, 3.0", plain
M16-01K - COMPACT spear point, 3.13", plain
M16-10K - COMPACT tanto point, 3.0", combo

M16-02 - tanto point, 3.13", plain
M16-03 - spear point, 3.56", plain
M16-04 - tanto point, 3.94", plain
M16-12 - tanto point, 3.13", combo
M16-13 - spear point, 3.56", combo
M16-14 - tanto point, 3.94", combo

there are further numbers for the different law enforcement, military, etc models:
M = military (olive drab handles, black blade)
SF = special forces (these have dual carson flippers which make a full hilt when open)
FD = fire dept (red G-10 scales, black blade)
LE = law enforcement (charcoal handles, black blade)
D = desert
T = titanium handle
Z = zytel scales (not aluminum).
so an M16-14ZSF would be a 3.94" tanto blade, combo edge, special forces model with zytel scales. IMO stay away froom the zytel models - not only are they less solid (the aluminum/titanium scales add a lot of stiffness to the frame), but they also use cheaper steels - AUS-4 and AUS-6 as opposed to the AUS-8 in the aluminum or titanium handled models.

M21-02 - drop point, 3.2", plain
M21-12 - drop point, 3.2", combo
M21-04 - drop point, 4.0", plain
M21-04 - drop point, 4.0", combo
 
I recommend newgraham also. I only order from them. If they don't have the one you want in stock, they can get it in for you if you talk to them over the phone, but you'll have to wait longer.

Buying the M16 online is sort of a mixed bag. On the one hand, virtually everyone loves the M16 line and you've used a very similar knife...everything should be the same only higher quality in the CRKT.

On the other hand, I really like to see all my liner locks in the store and check their lockup personally. Instances of poor locks in the M16 line are rare, but they do exist. If newgraham carries the M16 right now, I would call them and ask them to find you a real nice one. Obviously, if they order you one, there's no way they can do this.

Newgraham would probably be willing to exchange it if you did get a (very rare) m16 with poor lockup. They were willing to exchange my spyderfly when I got one with a bent latch.

On the plus side, you're not going to find better service or a better price than newgraham.

I've used several real nice folders, but my M16 always finds its way back into my EDC line. I carry it every other day, minimum.
 
Artfully Martial said:
On the plus side, you're not going to find better service or a better price than newgraham.
Click to expand...

actually, you might find a slightly lower price. for example, bladematrix has items for $3-5 less usually. however, they more than make up the money on shipping (they wanted to charge me $87 to ship a couple of Ka-Bars to canada). new graham charges you exactly as much shipping as it costs them, they dont list their knives at lower prices and then charge you triple the shipping to make it up.

cheers,
-gabriel
 
wow that's awesome, newgraham ship to canada?

also, while I"m thinking about it, what is the balance point like on the M-16? I realize it's gonna vary a fair bit depending on the grip material, but is it balanced fairly centrally?
 
New Graham is the way to go.

I have also had very good experience with AG Russell.
 
with your index finger right up against the round pivot bulge on the handle (right by the carson flipper), the aluminum handled ones are blade-weighted, especially the large ones.
the zytel handled ones are heavily handle-weighted. i am not sure about the G-10 one as i dont own it, nor the titanium one. the older small tanto M16 without the LAWKS is balanced.

if i were you i would stay away from the zytel handled ones. theyre not exactly poorly made, but they dont look/feel nearly as good as the aluminum ones and the blade steel will be AUS4 or AUS6 as opposed to AUS8. the liners on the M16s are quite thick, but they still dont come close to the solid feel of the aluminum ones. so the drop in finish/quality is not worth the $10 youll save.

cheers,
-gabriel
 
ya from what I've heard of the zytel ones I'll stay away from them, a aluminum handled SF tanto is lookin like it tho.

thanks for all the fast replies by the way, can't believe how fast you guys are
 
missed the first part:

yes, new graham ships to canada. they will also automatically tighten the blade pivot on the knife so it doesnt get confiscated.

some tips for asking for shipping to canada (im going to post this in its own thread in the canuck forum):
1. the best method for small folders is USPS global priority mail flat rate envelope. its a 6x10" envelope which will hold up to 4lbs, and will hold 2 CRKT large folder boxes easily. it costs $4, is small enough so it arrives in your mailbox (dont have to go pick it up), and seems to attract little attention from customs.

2. ask them to tighten the pivot screw on the knife (slot screwdriver for M16/M21). customs may confiscate it if it can be swung open, because we have a stupid law that makes 'gravity' knives illegal and customs agents have their own misguided individual ideas on how to interpret it. so this basically results in customs agents thrashing and flailing with the knife to the point of dislocating their shoulder to try and get it to swing open, just to have an excuse to confiscate it.

3. ask them to label is as anything but a 'knife'. tool, cutting tool, camping tool, etc are better. get them to downplay the value if they are willing - such as label it as $5. not only will this reduce the amount of customs attention, but will also deter theft by postal employees. a 'camping tool' with a value of $5 will attract far less attention than a 'tactical knife' with a value of $120.

4. a good idea is to ask the sender to place it in a sealed padded envelope labeled with your name/address before putting it into the USPS flat rate envelope. this way if it breaks/tears open and gets separated the knife wont be lost.

-never ship with UPS of FedEx - they charge a brokering fee of $20 just to get it across the border.
-the USPS global priority mail variable weight boxes are far more expensive to ship, dont fit in your mailbox, and attract a lot more attention than the smaller envelopes (i dont think ive ever received one without duties before). so if, for example, you are receiving 3 folders and they wont fit in a GPM $4 envelope, then ask them to ship it in 2 separate envelopes for $8 instead. this way will be cheaper than the box anyway.
-the smaller the package, the smaller the chance you will get hit with duties. duties add up - if they open it theyll often label their own value (they seem to like $100 for everything), and youll end up paying $15 tax, $5 handling, and $5+ duties on it right away. so often it is better to order folders individually, and if you do not want the box then ask them to just roll it in bubble wrap and throw away the box/papers. some companies boxes (CRKT is a good one) are absolutely enormous. a slim USPS GPM envelope with a single folder labeled as 'camping tool' with a value <$25 hardly EVER gets stopped. ive received dozens of these no problem meanwhile every single larger box gets hacked open, i end up paying duties, and it gets delayed as well. ordering from the states is great because we have some seriously jacked up prices here in canada, but if your orders get stopped by customs, and possibly even confiscated, youll wish you had ordered from canada instead.

hope this helped a bit. it may seem complicated, but the important things are:
1. ship USPS GPM flat rate envelope
2. tighten pivot screw
3. label as camping tool, tool, cutting tool, etc and not knife
4. keep the package as small as possible even if this means breaking up shipments into multiple orders.
any good company will not hesitate to do these things for you. new graham often volunteers this. if the company you are ordering from refuses to do this for you, shop elsewhere.

cheers,
-gabriel
 
ya I'm familiar with customs agents (who in canada isn't)

tightening the pivot screw is a reaaaaly good idea. I believe the law states that it can't be opened by mechanism, gravity or centrifical force, the easiest way around that for a police officer is to hold the knife by the blade (while closed) and flick the wrist, most folders are hilt heavy enough that the centrifical force of the hilt will snap the knife open. that interpretation of the law wont hold up in court, but it WILL let them confiscate the knife.
 
yeah, i wonder where all of these 'confiscated' knives go. i know where they tell you they are supposed to go, but im sure that many people along the customs seizure/destruction chain have some very nice knife collections, among other items.
i see far too much corruption and BS in my day-to-day dealings with people - especially gov't workers - to have much faith in them whhen it comes to things like this.
 
ya I hear ya on that one, sure must be nice to be a customs agent, there's alot of stuff gets confiscated or "falls out" of the box that was horribly mangled by the customs guys
 
I have always liked the CKRT knives, but have shied away from them due to consistent reports of weak locks. Does anyone know whether this problem has been remedied by CKRT?
 
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