- Joined
- Sep 19, 2001
- Messages
- 8,968
Just got this in, thought I'd throw up a few pics and impressions. That's a Vic Bantam in the pic for comparison.
The knife came in a blister pack, same as the other Gerbers you see in store, marked 440 steel on the pack and online. Some titanium coating is advertised, though the screws and standoffs are uncoated.
The blade is 0.076" thick, and the frame slabs are 0.055". It can be opened one handed with a bit of focus, but the detent is actually a little strong. The lock-up is spot-on, which is good since there isn't much room for mistake in fit.
Unfortunately, I see a problem at the other end of the lock. It didn't come in too clearly in the photo, but the cutout follows the pattern stamped into the frame, and follows around to the nose of the curve. Along with that, the lock is milled out on the inside of the frame, which is strange for a piece of metal less than a sixteenth thick. At the thinnest part, the frame is 0.025" where the lock bends. This is also less than a quarter inch wide. Sure, this knife won't see any prying or chopping, but there isn't much lock.
Still, the lock is there, and disengaging it one handed is an adventure. Most of the width of the frame is the lock bar, so trying to push the bar over with the thumb means I'm just pushing the bar against the tip of my index finger. To close the knife with one hand, I've found that turning it edge up works. Then I disengage the lock with my index finger and start to close the blade with my thumb in the slot cutout.
The knife can just shave out of the box, and is full flat ground to 0.019-23" at the edge bevel. It's a very small knife, no grip issues, but I'm not white knuckling or trying hard stabs with it.
The knife came in a blister pack, same as the other Gerbers you see in store, marked 440 steel on the pack and online. Some titanium coating is advertised, though the screws and standoffs are uncoated.
The blade is 0.076" thick, and the frame slabs are 0.055". It can be opened one handed with a bit of focus, but the detent is actually a little strong. The lock-up is spot-on, which is good since there isn't much room for mistake in fit.
Unfortunately, I see a problem at the other end of the lock. It didn't come in too clearly in the photo, but the cutout follows the pattern stamped into the frame, and follows around to the nose of the curve. Along with that, the lock is milled out on the inside of the frame, which is strange for a piece of metal less than a sixteenth thick. At the thinnest part, the frame is 0.025" where the lock bends. This is also less than a quarter inch wide. Sure, this knife won't see any prying or chopping, but there isn't much lock.
Still, the lock is there, and disengaging it one handed is an adventure. Most of the width of the frame is the lock bar, so trying to push the bar over with the thumb means I'm just pushing the bar against the tip of my index finger. To close the knife with one hand, I've found that turning it edge up works. Then I disengage the lock with my index finger and start to close the blade with my thumb in the slot cutout.
The knife can just shave out of the box, and is full flat ground to 0.019-23" at the edge bevel. It's a very small knife, no grip issues, but I'm not white knuckling or trying hard stabs with it.
